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I absolutely agree with ya on the new Sweetheart line, at least the bench planes. The blocks are IMHO not too shabby. A bit bulky for my liking but thats just a matter of personal taste. I've really come to like smallish block planes. My favorite go to plane is by far the little apron plane that LV puts out. Just a gem of a plane.

Can't comment on their shoulder planes, never used or held one but I wouldn't be surprised. Wood River shoulders have caught my eye of late. Looking like the ole Records...LV makes some sharp ones as well. I have several Japanese style wooden shoulders that are so/so quality at best, (aka cheapo's) BUT I have used quality Japanese shoulders and they were a pleasure to use.
I have some wooden planes that My father and grandfather made...
all special purpose... fixed T&G, concave and convex soles left over from wagon making days of different widths and radii...
what in the world do you nee a 2'' R bullnose plane for today...
same for a 2'' R roundover...
rip double chamfers and finish w/ the plane...
it was a wagon tongue for crying out loud....a spoke shave would have been just fine..
the ones I pushed till Hades froze over went to the wood pile decades ago...
I'll never make a wheel spoke or hub by hand again... ever...
for some reason my shoulders, shoulder blades, upper spine and arms just started to ache...


the Stanley 92 shoulder...

what I and others have had to say...

It's very painful to the heel of your hand to use....
blade is a PITA to adjust by .001"...
Casting is poorly cast/machined...
blade is wider than the body by way too much....
The slotted adjustment screws are chintzy...
The iron came poorly ground and dull...
Needs resharpening often.... very often...
I honestly believe that the iron isn't F2 steel or even close.
The iron takes some/lot of fiddling to get in and out...
Sides parallel to each other, but not at a right angles to base.
Sole cupped.
Mouth creeps during use.
QC sucks..........
this plane has pissed me off....

REVIEWS:

Ya made me go dig up some reviews.... (not at the sellers sites either)
ya'd thunk I wrote them....
the older 92's got good reviews.. the newest, not so good, some of them weren't as kind as I was...
and I honestly believe that the iron isn't A2 steel or even close... more like F2...
the sole isn't square to the sides... and is cupped...
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Review: UK-Stanley No 92 Not Worth The Money Saved - by HorizontalMike @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community
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http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/stanley-sweetheart-92-shoulder-plane-first-impressions-t40896.htm...
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Sides parallel to each other, but not at a right angles to base. Off by nominally 1/3 degree. That can be "tuned" out with a lot of effort when lapping the base/sole.

Big problem, the blade was narrower than body/sole. Blade should be about 0.002" per side (0.004" total) wider than sole/body. Body was nominally 0.753". Blade was less than 0.749" wide. That is at least 0.008" shy of a rebate plane that has any chance of working. One can tune a plane (or tuna fish), but adding width to a blade is not in that category. Nor is lapping the body/sole down to below blade width--at least for a woodworker without a machine shop.
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This review is from: Stanley 12-140 No.92 Shoulder and Chisel Plane (Tools & Home Improvement)
I went to the local Woodcraft looking for a rabbit plane and this was the best solution. The overall finish is good no machine marks blade square to the body so i bought it. Once i started using it the problem list grew fast. The lever cap is machined too lose and doesn't stay square to the body. You can not adjust the mouth opening for a light shaving. The other problem is that when you push the plane it opens the mouth. I was using it on a hardwood, but it still it should keep a tight mouth. The chisel part of the plane is just as bad. I am going to try to return. Unfortunately Stanley put the SW stamp on it and what once was a great trade mark in a era of great tools Stanley ruined it.
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I own the smoothing and jack planes that are part of this new series of Sweetheart planes from stanley. Both the smoothing and jack planes were impressive right out of the box. They both required some work, honing of the blades and smoothing out the sole. They are not as 'refined' as my Lie Nielsen planes but then 'you get what you pay for'.
So when this shoulder plane became available I ordered it. On first impression it is a nice looking plane. But when picked up it was uncomfortable to hold (a bit of a problem for a 'hand' tool) This was due to the sharp edges all around the top and sides. The blade had some serious machining marks and the A2 steel took a LONG time to get those marks out and hone. It did not help that the back side of the blade was not flat. The sole was also not flat and took a REAL LONG time to flatten. The sharp top edges of the planes body had to be carefully relieved taking care not to scratch the front sides and back in the process.
The 92's new design does make it easier than the old model to set and adjust the blade. The heftier body and blade allows it cut very nicely.
For the money I think I would have preferred to pay extra for a Lie Nielsen or Veritas shoulder plane.
I was disappointed that this shoulder plane did not match the quality of its sibling smoother and jack planes.
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The Stanley Sweetheart No. 92 shoulder plane feels reasonably good in the hand and has good length and heft, but out of the box it is far from usable, or at least that was the case with mine. The instruction sheet claims the iron is honed and ready for use out of the box, but that is seldom the case and was no different here. That was easily remedied by my WorkSharp grinder, however. The sole had a slight cupping just behind the mouth, but this also was fairly easy to flatten out. The big problem for me has been the plane's frog, which is cast as part of the body, not a separate adjustable piece. Removing the iron revealed that the frog was very poorly ground and skewed badly to the right, which explained why the plane would cut on the right side, but no amount of adjusting gave me any shavings off the left side. The body shape makes it impossible to simply grind the frog flat, so instead it took a considerable amount of time with a flat file to get things half way usable. Having just used the plane trimming several cherry tenons, I know I still have some work to do to get things where they ought to be. I know many would consider this a "cheap" plane, but for $80, I hoped for better workmanship. I would not recommend it unless you are prepared to spend a couple hours getting it in shape.
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This plane was pretty much as others have stated. Looked nice out of the box, edges sharp. The body was .750 wide, blade was .748. The sides were parallel and 90 degrees to the sole. The sole was flat. The back side of the blade was easy to hone flat. As another has said the real problem was the frog. It was machined off. The blade cut a shaving about 1/4'' wide on the right side only. After setting it up and checking it with an indicator it was off .007 across the frog side to side. After setting it up on a surface grinder and grinding it to where it should have been out of the box, it works great. If you don't have access to a surface grinder there would be a lot of time involved trying to get it right. Should not be this way, hopefully quality control will take note.
 
Spoke shaves are another animal to have...not unlike a hand plane a joy to use...not unlike a hand plane, once you get into a "groove" they are a blast....
 
I like them..
 
actually enjoy using my little 4" Japanese spoke shave more than my LV's...even though this is one thing I have to really work at putting an edge on..
 
Thanks Stick for the reviews. Guess I lucked out on the Stanley block plane I bought. I will likely pop for the Wood River rabbit plane when the time comes.
 
Spoke shaves are another animal to have...not unlike a hand plane a joy to use...not unlike a hand plane, once you get into a "groove" they are a blast....
Agreed. I got an interesting one off ebay that has a concave blade beside a straight one. I had never seen one like it before. It's like having 2 spoke shaves in one.
 
Don't know much about low angle planes, so maybe someone can tell be about them. For a small low angle plane I know it really does a nice job across the end grain.

Just finished a shooting board.
Low angle's are great for just what you mentioned, end grain. Excellent choice for shooting board use. A match made in heaven. When the time comes, take a look at the LeeValley line. Veritas® Low-Angle Smooth Plane. With 4 different irons available, pretty much tackle anything you come across.

Veritas® Low-Angle Smooth Plane - Lee Valley Tools
 
shooting board...
 

Attachments

Low angle's are great for just what you mentioned, end grain. Excellent choice for shooting board use. A match made in heaven. When the time comes, take a look at the LeeValley line. Veritas® Low-Angle Smooth Plane. With 4 different irons available, pretty much tackle anything you come across.

Veritas® Low-Angle Smooth Plane - Lee Valley Tools
Getting into picture frames and the low angle looks just the ticket. thanks for the feedback. I have a shooting board and was going to use my #4 or the block plane, but the block plane is not that great for end grain.
 
Getting into picture frames and the low angle looks just the ticket. thanks for the feedback. I have a shooting board and was going to use my #4 or the block plane, but the block plane is not that great for end grain.
In a pinch, a block that has one helluva edge on it can do you well enough, but the harder the wood, the more problems. Mass is your friend in a shooter almost as much as the iron angle and makeup. Position of the tote (handle) is another that can make a big difference. By the time you get into all of that, you're looking at a dedicate shooting plane. A bit of an investment to say the least. On smallish pieces/softer woods I like the small LV Low angle, move into bigger, harder stuff then I use a LV low angle Jack...basically a #5. On the really hardwoods (exotics) I pull out a LV #7 for the mass of the plane alone....I don't find that one is so much better than another in terms of the cut they make. its more a matter of ease of use over an extended period of time.
 
Getting into picture frames and the low angle looks just the ticket. thanks for the feedback. I have a shooting board and was going to use my #4 or the block plane, but the block plane is not that great for end grain.
for really difficult woods and end grains look to a bevel up smoother or joiner....

over all I think an LA Jack fits the bill for almost all of any any shooting board applications...
now if you had a skew LA Jack you'd rule..
 
for really difficult woods and end grains look to a bevel up smoother or joiner....

over all I think an LA Jack fits the bill for almost all of any any shooting board applications...
now if you had a skew LA Jack you'd rule..
don't skew the jack, skew the shooting board :)
 
go for way more control, accuracy, simplicity, ease and precision...
a skew plane the size of at least a smoother or a joiner plane...
a skew block will work but...
a skew rabbetter may work also but ....
other than wooden models there must be an iron bodied one out there...

Veritas Tools - Block Planes - Skew Block Plane

agreed.....

this is why the V2 of my shooting board will have an inclined ramp that the plane will sit on. Effectively creating a skewed angle. Several years ago this was the subject of a rather intense and well thought out thread over at another forum. There was little if any argument about the advantage of a skewed approach to the material. So it became a debate about whether or not inclining the shooting boards plane platform relative to the work piece created the same mechanical advantage.
 
agreed.....

this is why the V2 of my shooting board will have an inclined ramp that the plane will sit on. Effectively creating a skewed angle. Several years ago this was the subject of a rather intense and well thought out thread over at another forum. There was little if any argument about the advantage of a skewed approach to the material. So it became a debate about whether or not inclining the shooting boards plane platform relative to the work piece created the same mechanical advantage.
I'd like to read that thread...

so where do we find a skew jack plane???
 
I'd like to read that thread...

so where do we find a skew jack plane???
Woodnet...

skewed jack? don't know.. these are about as close as you can get
in an American plane as far as I know.,,,,Stanley 51 and the LV and LN versions. Not that you would not be familiar with them,,,but others might find them of interest...
 

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agreed.....

this is why the V2 of my shooting board will have an inclined ramp that the plane will sit on. Effectively creating a skewed angle. Several years ago this was the subject of a rather intense and well thought out thread over at another forum. There was little if any argument about the advantage of a skewed approach to the material. So it became a debate about whether or not inclining the shooting boards plane platform relative to the work piece created the same mechanical advantage.
my grand father made several variations of this one...
but they are nothing like an iron bodied one...

Skew Miter

so tell me about your plan for your inclined shooting board...
only question I gots is .. won't inclining the shooting board limit the width of the material...
ie.. max out at say 4'' vs infinity...
pronounced profiles and material thickness would limit widths even more wouldn't they???
 
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