Router Forums - View Single Post - Need Advice On Router Purchase For Freehand Use

elmiko · 06-20-2006, 12:23 PM

Greetings, and thanks for responding.

Regarding what I am doing to the plywood panel....I am carving away the flat plane and winding up with a....rolling plane. I am giving my paintings additional depth by actually creating a 3 dimensional surface for the paint to sit on. Your description of varying the depths of the plywood's thickness is also correct.

I suppose I didn't put the questions in the best way...

Regarding the size of the router: How much harder is it to maneuver a 3 hp than a 2 hp?...it seems that because the router is sitting on a surface, the weight issue is somewhat ameliorated, and it also seems that the additional hp would tend to chew through the plywood easier, making it easier to push the heavier router through the plywood. I'm a fairly strong guy, but I know that the body position I will be in when I am carving towards the middle of a large panel will not be the best ergonomically for my back. Thats why I want to know, from those who have pushed these routers around many hours in freehand (signmakers?), which one of these is best for this particular task?

I guess another part to the question on router size is this: It seems to me that many folks who use routers are using them for tasks that are limited in regards to time spent cutting....like cutting dado's and trimming and such. I will be using mine to continuously carve large swaths of panels. Will the 2 hp stand up to this increased amount of use? Will the 2 hp overheat? Will I actually remove more material per unit of time with a 3 hp because it is able to chew through the material considerably faster than the 2 hp?

Regarding the thickness of the plywood and how much of that I will be removing: That will vary depending on the piece I am working on. Sometimes the panel might only be 1/2 inch thick, and I might remove anywhere from 1/16 to 1/4 of an inch at various points on the panel. Other times the panel might be 1 inch thick, and I might remove as much as 3/4 of an inch at certain points (I generally try to keep a minimum of 1/4 inch untouched to keep the panels strength sufficient).

The final appearance of the areas that I carve will always be smooth slopes...its just that the router's task results in a step-like appearance. Once the router has done its thing, I go in and sand down the "steps", take off the high points, and create smooth slopes.

Thanks again for your input.

Mike

06-20-2006, 12:23 PM	#6
elmiko Registered User New Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 2 View elmiko's Gallery	Report This Post! Greetings, and thanks for responding. Regarding what I am doing to the plywood panel....I am carving away the flat plane and winding up with a....rolling plane. I am giving my paintings additional depth by actually creating a 3 dimensional surface for the paint to sit on. Your description of varying the depths of the plywood's thickness is also correct. I suppose I didn't put the questions in the best way... Regarding the size of the router: How much harder is it to maneuver a 3 hp than a 2 hp?...it seems that because the router is sitting on a surface, the weight issue is somewhat ameliorated, and it also seems that the additional hp would tend to chew through the plywood easier, making it easier to push the heavier router through the plywood. I'm a fairly strong guy, but I know that the body position I will be in when I am carving towards the middle of a large panel will not be the best ergonomically for my back. Thats why I want to know, from those who have pushed these routers around many hours in freehand (signmakers?), which one of these is best for this particular task? I guess another part to the question on router size is this: It seems to me that many folks who use routers are using them for tasks that are limited in regards to time spent cutting....like cutting dado's and trimming and such. I will be using mine to continuously carve large swaths of panels. Will the 2 hp stand up to this increased amount of use? Will the 2 hp overheat? Will I actually remove more material per unit of time with a 3 hp because it is able to chew through the material considerably faster than the 2 hp? Regarding the thickness of the plywood and how much of that I will be removing: That will vary depending on the piece I am working on. Sometimes the panel might only be 1/2 inch thick, and I might remove anywhere from 1/16 to 1/4 of an inch at various points on the panel. Other times the panel might be 1 inch thick, and I might remove as much as 3/4 of an inch at certain points (I generally try to keep a minimum of 1/4 inch untouched to keep the panels strength sufficient). The final appearance of the areas that I carve will always be smooth slopes...its just that the router's task results in a step-like appearance. Once the router has done its thing, I go in and sand down the "steps", take off the high points, and create smooth slopes. Thanks again for your input. Mike Last edited by elmiko; 06-20-2006 at 12:26 PM.
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