Hi Bob
This is what I would
1st. find some MDF or some good and straight 2 x 4 as long as your table,then take a jig saw/hand saw/hole saw and cut a kotch "starter hole" for the size of bit you are going to use.
Then clamp one board to the table top BUT but DON'T use the piloted part of the bit just use it to zero the bit to the fence,with a straight edge.
That's to say DON'T let it rub on the stock when you pass it by.
Then once you have the fence in place clamp the 2nd board down to the table and use it for the feather board so to speak, then once you have clamped down fire up the router and make your pass by the bit.
It's best to make a pass or two, then you will have a nice clean edge on the stock, this can be done by just moving the fence in just a bit on the 1st pass and then reset the two fences on the last pass.
BUT don't move the bit up or down just the fence...
Bj
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Originally Posted by beemerbob I mount the table on the end of my table saw. If I want to rout a long piece - 16x36 inch door for a cabinet - I have to move the saw so I can use the Oak-Park Fence. I have to retract the TS blade and remove the blade guard. This doesn't leave a lot of room for mounting a feather board.
I could use a straight edge going the length of the table top, but then how do you make a starter hole in the fence for a piloted roundover bit?
I don't have room in my garage for a dedicated router table.
Does anyone have a plan, idea or a suggestion for a router fence? |