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Originally Posted by challagan Okay Harry, I had a quick look this morning before I had to run off for the office and knew I wanted to look at this closer tonight. Glad I remembered!
The Ski thing really hasn't grabbed me until I seen those pics this morning. Now I can see a use for that one for a guy that doesn't have a planer. How thick was the board before you planed it and how thick after? Can I ask how come you didn't do the other side and is further warping etc. a concern ? Please understand that I am not badgering you on this... I sincerely don't know what to expect and that is why I asked. This intrigues me. Thanks for posting that Harry. I will have to check out those Ski instructions again. I have some box stock that is 3/8 and 1/2 inch that is curved with about a 1/16 off the level surface in the middle of the board so it seems I should be able to do this on both sides to save the stock, even if I end up with 1/4 to 3/8 stock... it will still be more usable then it is now.
The inlay.... That gets me all revved up. That's the kind of thing I want to do more of. I can use my Milescraft Inlay and Spirocrafter to make inlays and or carvings and this is really something I want to do on my boxes in the future. I like what you did on this and that's a neat little jazzed up box. I would have to use my inlay bushing set though or the Milescraft set up!
Thanks for the post Harry and all the pics! BTW, thats how I line my boxes as well. I use 1/8 hardboard on smaller boxes and cover them like that. I use mat board for larger boxes.
Corey
Another question, what cutter do you use for the planing operation. Looks like a spiral bit maybe cut wouldn't something flat bottomed like a hinge mortising or dado clean up bit work well for this? |
Corey, the board itself was 10.5mm but on a flat surface convex side up it was12.5mm meaning that at least 2mm had to be removed from each side, this would have left a board no more than 6mm thick, a little less than 1/4", too thin really for most projects. I used the curved board especially to demonstrate the ski mounted router in use. I didn't bother planing the inside of the bottom 1..the bottom would have been thin and 2..it can't be seen under the felt! (what the eye can't see, the heart can't grieve) The cutter I used was a 10mm end cutter, that is one with an extra cutting blade on the end, quite expensive here but as cheap as chips in the USA!.I think that the larger the diameter the better and can't see any reason why dado cutters couldn't be used. The question of surface circles has been mentioned,bear in mind that the router is controlled by the ski ends, so no pressure is applied to the router itself so the depth of cut shouldn't vary along the length of cut and going along the grain ensures a smooth finish that only needs two strokes of 600grade paper! If I have forgotten anything, don't hesitate to ask. I'm sorry for the late hour of this post, but blame you're senior moderator who Skyped me as I was about to log on to the forum and when we get talking time stands still!!!!