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Old 09-16-2007, 09:14 PM   #6
bobj3
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Hi Deck

Well let start with the top, The norm is 2ea. 3/4" thick MDF parts to make a good router table top glued up as one, you can use just one or some plywood but it should be 3/4" min...now if you bolt up your Hitachi to the board you just lost 3/4" of the router moving up that's not a big deal most of the time unless you use lets say a 1/4" shank bits from time to time, the 1/4" router bits are always a bit shorter the 1/2" shank ones.

Now if you make up the top and it comes out at 1 1/2" thick...I'm sure can see what I'm saying, but you may say well about if I route out a pocket out to set the router base in that's 1/4" to 3/8" thick, if you use plywood or MDF the wood will not hold the router and it time it will crack the board and you did all the work for not.

Now if you use a plate insert you will only lose 1/4" to 3/8" and the plate just sits on and small lip and it can hold up the 3 1/4HP router..



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Quote:
Originally Posted by deck99
bobj3,
The first two tables I built I had an insert. I thought It would be nice to just mount my Hitachi to the table and not have to mess with cutting an insert in. My Hitachi is strictly to be used in my table. Why do you say I should have an insert?

thank you,
Deck
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