Hi John
Who are Tom and Harry?= Tom is Template Tom on the Forum ,Harry is Harry Sin on the Fourm..both are pros.with the ski setup jig and the template way of using the router..
I think that was Tom that said that but I do agree with him but some times you don't need the brass guides, the sides of the frame holding box will do the trick but a Vac. pickup works great to get the chips out of the slot and keep the work area clean.
" there is a lot to take in" = true,,, if you click on the gallery item on posted items by me you will see it all....
"black set" = this is Harry's setup ,he used solid rods and I used all thread rod so I could move it to any place I wanted it to be.
"eccentric cams" = I made two types of holdng frames, one I used the wedge type to hold the part in place and the 2nd frame I made I used the cam type, the holes you see hold 10-24 tee nuts so I can move the cams all over the base board and not be locked into using one size of board to fit down in the frame with side supports, I like the cam type the best and that's the one I use now all the time the other one now holds the TurnLock systems (MilesCraft setup ) and works best for that type of setup.
"down fixtures including eccentric cams" = one set of cams hold the blank stock and the other set hold the template, as you can see the ones that hold the blank stock are shorter and the other ones are a bit taller but they both use the same size of Allen bolts to lock them in place...
The 1st. set of cams I made where holes I cut out with the hole saw then I got smart and just used some Oak dowel (1 3/4" in dia.) and just cut off the size I needed to make...I now have about 80 or so ...all the same dia. but not all the same height, they range from 3/8" tall to 2 1/4" ..
"how do you stop the router from moving" = almost all routers come with wing screws/sloted that lock the the fence rods in place.
"how is the router being guided?" = that's the great thing about the ski jig,you can let the skis run on the side of the holding frame or move the skis out so you move it over and around inside of the template(s) if you have one in place...I used all 3/8-24 all thread on the 1st. set I made and then used Acme 3/8-12 for the 2nd set...the 3/8-24 works just fine but you can't turn the wing nut down to tight without putting a flat spot on it..
The rods I now use are 30" long and the frame as a block on the bottom side so I can just drop in the hole in the router table ,that locks the holding frame in place and I have a flat spot for the skis to slide on...
The TurnLock holding frame as a smaller block on the bottom so I clamp it in the Work-Mate work bench if I need to use it at the same time as the other one that's in the router table...
Hope this helps, IT"S A GREAT JIG and worth the money and time to make one
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Originally Posted by JDługosz Thanks for the notes, Bj.
I think the first thing you said is to use a guide bushing with lots of clearance around the bit, rather than the one with the closest fit. That way the chips can go up and out.
Who are Tom and Harry?
Your photos are interesting...there is a lot to take in. I see two different rod holders: one black set with fixed points, and one unfinished tall set with slots to adjust the height. The rods look like threaded rods. That doesn't bother it to have the threading go through the router base's holes, as opposed to being smooth?
I see the whole thing acts as a sled that goes around a parts holding tray. That's just a tray with lots of screws around the frame. You hold things in place using wedges. Hmm, the frame seems to overhang the tray area. Why is that?
Another parts holder uses screw-down fixtures including eccentric cams. You use them together for some reason.
When using rod holders as a sled, how do you stop the router from moving along the threads? Do you use it in a mode where the router does move along the rods? In the 3rd picture, how is the router being guided? The ends are not set to hug the parts tray, nor are they clamped which I would expect if the router is moving along the rods.
―John |