Router Forums - View Single Post - Mounting a router plate questions / tips?

Nickbee · 11-28-2007, 01:52 PM

I’ve read lots of good tips on here on how this should be done. I just go this plate in from woodpeckers:

http://www.woodpeck.com/tlrphenolicplate.html

I did get the MDF template and the recommended 5/8” bit…

I’m routing out a ¾” MDF table top that will have a 2nd ¾” MDF glued to the bottom…

I’ve seen a tip somewhere here that suggests putting a few layers of painters tape on the bit bearing. Then the plate fitting can be tested and one layer at a time can be removed if the fit is too tight. Seems like a good idea… The brass plungers (one on the short side and one on the long side) are a good idea to make up for slop, but of course I’d rather get a near perfect fit 1st.

Also since this plate has 8 leveling screws should I purposely make my route slightly lower then adjust up for a flush fit? Figured it would be better to be a bit too low rather than too high (since low can be adjusted with the leveling screws). I plan to use my 1617’s fixed base that has a micro adjust to “sneak up” on the bit depth setting.

As you can tell this is the 1st time I’m doing this. Any other tips you guys have would be great! Good thing MDF is cheap

…

Thanks!

11-28-2007, 01:52 PM	#1
Nickbee Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 393 View Nickbee's Gallery	Report This Post! Mounting a router plate questions / tips? I’ve read lots of good tips on here on how this should be done. I just go this plate in from woodpeckers: http://www.woodpeck.com/tlrphenolicplate.html I did get the MDF template and the recommended 5/8” bit… I’m routing out a ¾” MDF table top that will have a 2nd ¾” MDF glued to the bottom… I’ve seen a tip somewhere here that suggests putting a few layers of painters tape on the bit bearing. Then the plate fitting can be tested and one layer at a time can be removed if the fit is too tight. Seems like a good idea… The brass plungers (one on the short side and one on the long side) are a good idea to make up for slop, but of course I’d rather get a near perfect fit 1st. Also since this plate has 8 leveling screws should I purposely make my route slightly lower then adjust up for a flush fit? Figured it would be better to be a bit too low rather than too high (since low can be adjusted with the leveling screws). I plan to use my 1617’s fixed base that has a micro adjust to “sneak up” on the bit depth setting. As you can tell this is the 1st time I’m doing this. Any other tips you guys have would be great! Good thing MDF is cheap … Thanks!
	Top - Reply with Quote