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Old 05-08-2008, 09:29 AM   #5
bobj3
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Hi Dekker

The days of a tech. replacing a part on a board are gone ,do what most shops now do now, just replace the brushes and the speed control device and be done with it...I think I would replace the brushes 1st. then if you still have a error replace the speed control device...

I would not bypass the control device it's one things you want and I'm sure that's why you put out the extra money out a for the router 2 years ago..
fix it right and it will sever you will for many more years...the parts you need should not be that high in price and maybe with some luck you may get the speed control device free they do have some that had errors on them I'm sure...

JUST as a side note ,,,we have a 2 year old ref.( HotPoint that we got from HD) and it stop runing and the server tech. came out and said it only had a one year warr.but the Fac. would pay for this repair, he pull the Ref. out pull the cover off the computer board, snapped in a new board and it was up and running again in less than 5 mins. and all at no charge.. so to say they sometimes they put in bad parts at the Fac. and some do fail but they know that by others having the same error...if I recall this right some one on the forum had the same error...


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dekker
No, not woodworking help, but electrical help! First the story, then the question...

I have an FT2000e that I have kept table-mounted for a couple years now. I was using it yesterday (table mounted) to rout edges on a series of panels and as I was switching panels, I heard the router give a "warble". I quickly reached for the power switch and switched it off. I had an experience once of a router bit moving vertically, and I had a nightmare of my bit having come loose and about to fly free, but I'm glad to say it was not that...

So I look things over, everything looks fine, the bit is still firmly attached, so I flip the switch back on: NOTHING.

The sound I had heard can be best described as the sound a Formula-1 car makes when its RPMs are restricted by its engine limiter, like the router was not firing on all cylinders.

I took the thing apart, blew out the dust, tested again, but no luck. I then got out my volt-meter, and did some continuity-probing (without being plugged in), and everything "looks" OK, with two exceptions... The variable-speed control is not showing any continuity between the in-and-out leads (of course, with no power applied). Secondly, one of the brushes has an edge missing.

Questions:
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So my real question is, does anyone know whether the speed-control should have continuity with no voltage, or only with voltage?

And secondly, would that small chip in the brush cause the failure to start? Any way to test/eliminate that as a possibility? I'm reasonably competent electrically, but without knowing what appropriate values are, I can't self-diagnose it...

And finally, does anyone have a service-manual for the router, or is the assembly diagram the best/only information available?

Yes, a long post, but thought I'd be thorough
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