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AK router table/stand progress

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Made some progress today. (even tough I plowed snow once & it needs it again) :(
Electrical & bit drawers.

Electrical?
I was going to put in an interposing relay off the cabinet switch & run a cord from the DC Vacuum so when I turn on the router it turns on the Vac. Any reason not to? (will make the cord plug different than any others I have) (power for vacuum is on a different breaker)
 
#22 ·
It is possible to buy current operated double power points, the router goes into one and when it drawers current, throws a relay which powers up the second socket into which the DC is plugged.
The cabinet is a fine piece of workmanship.
 
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#23 · (Edited)
harrysin said:
It is possible to buy current operated double power points, the router goes into one and when it drawers current, throws a relay which powers up the second socket into which the DC is plugged.
The cabinet is a fine piece of workmanship.
Click to expand...
The only problem with them is you have to watch the power draw. If your saw draws 15A (assuming 120V circuit) and your DC draws the same you're in trouble. One possible fix is to get a 120V relay, plug it into the dual switch and use it to power the DC from another circuit—just make sure the relay contacts are good for the current the DC draws.

Image
 

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#24 ·
HI Dave

Looking good :)

Here's easy work around,, you can hang it right by the power switch on front of the cabinet..

Remote control, I do like the Grizzly one, it comes with two remote buttons.

http://grizzly.com/products/Remote-Control-110V-75-Range/H2797

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97097

One more small tip put on a drawer slider on router bit drawer,on the bottom side of the drawer,(it just takes one set) that way it will not pull all the way out and drop your bits all over the floor :) if a bits hits the floor they are toast the norm.

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quote=Bogydave;88259]Made some progress today. (even tough I plowed snow once & it needs it again) :(
Electrical & bit drawers.

Electrical?
I was going to put in an interposing relay off the cabinet switch & run a cord from the DC Vacuum so when I turn on the router it turns on the Vac. Any reason not to? (will make the cord plug different than any others I have) (power for vacuum is on a different breaker)
View attachment 17094 [/quote]
 
#25 ·
BobSch said:
The only problem with them is you have to watch the power draw. If your saw draws 15A (assuming 120V circuit) and your DC draws the same you're in trouble. One possible fix is to get a 120V relay, plug it into the dual switch and use it to power the DC from another circuit—just make sure the relay contacts are good for the current the DC draws.

Image
Click to expand...
What a good reason for the USA to go at least 220volts to all power points, I'm led to believe that two phase goes to each home, so where is the problem?
 
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Discussion starter · #26 ·
Thanks all
Harry you are so right.
Answer $$$$
The cost of the change would put us in a recession (oops already there).
Yes 220 would be better, more efficient.
I make any powertools, that can, run on 220.
When I built the shop, I put in lots of outlets for 120 & 220.
I plan to use a solid state 30 amp relay, power draw will not be an issue. (different circuits)
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Installed a lift assist spring/hydraulic.
My neighbor came by with a lift assist from a Ford SUV rear gate.
He thought it would work for lifting the top (after I told him I smashed my finger when lifting the top, the fence started to slide off the back, I quickly lowered the top but left index finger got in the way. Had to drill a small hole in the finger nail to relieve the pressure. Probably going to lose the finger nail.)
I messed with it for a while & got it in a good position. Now when lifting it's easy & it hold it up as long as the fence is in back of middle. If I used one on the other side it would work where ever the fence is. Don't need the stay most of the time. So far it's out of the way for table operation. May also be allot less painful ( i was told stupid hurts, now I know it to be true).
 
#28 ·
Hi Dave

Yikes, need to change your name to Dr. Bogydave :)

Make's me recall the time I tough my finger was a nail head,shot some blood all over the place from under the finger nail, I'm glad I didn't need to drill it..... :(

The lift looks great and should fix that error :)


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Bogydave said:
Installed a lift assist spring/hydraulic.
My neighbor came by with a lift assist from a Ford SUV rear gate.
He thought it would work for lifting the top (after I told him I smashed my finger when lifting the top, the fence started to slide off the back, I quickly lowered the top but left index finger got in the way. Had to drill a small hole in the finger nail to relieve the pressure. Probably going to lose the finger nail.)
I messed with it for a while & got it in a good position. Now when lifting it's easy & it hold it up as long as the fence is in back of middle. If I used one on the other side it would work where ever the fence is. Don't need the stay most of the time. So far it's out of the way for table operation. May also be allot less painful ( i was told stupid hurts, now I know it to be true).
View attachment 17239
Click to expand...
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Drilled pivot hole in the fence & table. It does work well. Thanks Bj
Made some zero clearance inserts.
Sliding fences & insert work great to attach many things to the fence.
Add some dust control fixtures to some of the inserts.
Cut a hole in the insert & used it to attach it to the fence. 1st one for working with the bit free. Saw one that BJ made for using the Oak Park box jig (which is in the mail).


Smaller insert for bit guard & I routed a grove in the insert & bit guard support to the tip.
Worked great for pattern work. pulled all the chips & mdf dust good.
 
#30 ·
HI Dave

You're Welcome :)

That's a neat ideal,,,that's a new one for me, that way didn't dawn on me now I need to make one also now, I guess that's what you get for thinking out side of the fence ( BOX )

You are so close to making a over head pin router it's not funny :)
Just drop in your pin asm.in the fence and you have a pin router..

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/daisypin.html

=======

Bogydave said:
Drilled pivot hole in the fence & table. It does work well. Thanks Bj
Made some zero clearance inserts.
Sliding fences & insert work great to attach many things to the fence.
Add some dust control fixtures to some of the inserts.
Cut a hole in the insert & used it to attach it to the fence. 1st one for working with the bit free. Saw one that BJ made for using the Oak Park box jig (which is in the mail).
View attachment 17284 View attachment 17285

Smaller insert for bit guard & I routed a grove in the insert & bit guard support to the tip.
Worked great for pattern work. pulled all the chips & mdf dust good.
View attachment 17286 View attachment 17287 View attachment 17288 View attachment 17289
Click to expand...
 
Discussion starter · #31 · (Edited)
Well I just copied, printed & framed your reply bj,

"That's a neat ideal,,,that's a new one for me, that way didn't dawn on me now I need to make one also now,"

Knowing yours will be cooler & neater, I'm still proud.


Now I get to say;
Your welcome, (probably the only time)
Thanks for the compliment & thanks for the seeds

You have to plant the seed before anything will grow,
This site has planted allot of seeds in my head.
 
Discussion starter · #32 · (Edited)
Cabinet door on, had some 3/16 oak plywood for the panel.
Vacuum sys hooked up & works good (baffle installed), added some weather strip to seal leaks so vac would work better.
adding 1 more lift ram, now top stays up wherever the fence is, & it faster to change bits.


Vac works as in photo (tried to copy from gallery? link works/no thumbnail)
View attachment 17159
 
#36 ·
Very nice table Dave. A lot of work, but something to be proud of.

As for your work bench, did you build it? It looks pretty nice as well.

Brian
 
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Discussion starter · #37 ·
Thanks
waiting for OP box jig to make the bottom drawer of router cabinet.

Yes, built bench last winter.

Need to learn/figure how to dovetail the middle vertical board in for the cabinet frame. Order box jig set from Oak Park, snail mail. hoping it'll help with the dovetail of the board then mark & rout dovetail in the frame to fit it in. Using the work bench cabinet to learn. Not sure about cabinet doors, flush with frame or like kitchen cabinets. Not there yet anyway. Glueing boards for the styles & rails from left over strips from workbench project.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Calling the cabinet DONE.
Top seems to be an evolving organism, always something I need to add, like maybe a miter grove or a multi purpose rail on the front to hold various stuff.

Want to do something with the switch yet.
It is a little hard to get to. Maybe a bigger one , push button or something
Any recommendations for ease & quick to find to turn off without having to look away form the router?
 

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#40 ·
Hi Dave

You did a real nice job :) but I was sure you would when I saw your work bench :)

here's link or two to a switch, it's bit high in price but I'm sure it will work on your setup ..

http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerControls.htm
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&filter=power switch

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Bogydave said:
Calling the cabinet DONE.
Top seems to be an evolving organism, always something I need to add, like maybe a miter grove or a multi purpose rail on the front to hold various stuff.

Want to do something with the switch yet.
It is a little hard to get to. Maybe a bigger one , push button or something
Any recommendations for ease & quick to find to turn off without having to look away form the router?
Click to expand...
 
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