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Joe Lyddon · 08-11-2007, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueGoose

The bit was a 1/2" 90 degree vbit.

The machine did work the first time but there were a few kinks to work out to make it more precise. I did ask a few questions on a CNC forum and got some very good help. The router travel is more or less figured by the software. A person could change the travel if he wanted to spend the time, but I had just as soon have the CNC make a few extra trips. Quicker for me.

Here is a video of the CNC cutting out a few knobs to use on handmade jigs - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djaCFjbopcg. I removed the dust collection so that you could see the action better. These things do make a lot of dust. Also is a couple of pictures of the 5 point and 8 point knobs after they were removed from the blank. Just takes a couple of licks with sandpaper, some paint and add some tee-nuts and they are as good as the ones you buy. There is just so much stuff a fellow can do with one of these machines. They are excellent for making patterns.

Hey Blue one!

That was Fantastic! Thank you very much!

Yes, I can see how it would do a wonderful job in making Patterns, knobs, & etc. limited only by one's imagination.

Your last demo apparently used a 1/4" straight bit! Perfect for the "knob" job. So, your software, I guess, is flexible enough to be told Bit parameters... If a bit change were desired, would it stop to allow you to change bits, then continue once you gave the GO signal?

The Table / Sled / Bed, or whatever you call it, looks very rugged and strong! Are the blue parts, ends, etc., a different kind of metal? Does the sled move on free rolling Rollers but controlled with cables? What is the main way the movements are controlled?

That is so COOL!! I couild sit for hours & "pick your brain"!! So, I couldn't possibly type posts to do the same thing!

Can you give us a Link to the Forum(s) that you used to get help as well as any other helpful Links?

What are the sources data types from which you can work? For your sign; jpg or graphic pic? Mech. drawing, CADCAM software?

Does your software use the machine to determine wood thickness or do you explicitly tell it?

If you wanted, could you change bits in the Knob Job to Roundover the outside edges?

How much do you leave uncut, at the bottom, to keep pieces in place?

I could go on & on... So, I'll stop now...

Thank you so much for sharing such a wonderful project!!

We look forward to more from you...

DougO · 08-12-2007, 01:02 AM

You guys are like I was when I first got started - inquisitive and excited about the machine. I hope I have answered all of your questions. If you have any more let me know and I will try my best to answer them.

(1) PLEASE tell me it didn't cost an arm and a leg to make
A. I probably have @$1000 in the machine and another $600 in the software. You can use the same software I do free but what it does is limited.

(2) Was the one straight cutter used for all three operations and am I right in thinking that the cutter didn't go all the way through to prevent the knobs breaking free and hitting the cutter.
A. Yes it was one cutter. If you look at the video closely, on the last pass, you can see the machine picking the router bit up just a small amount. With this software, I can put as many tabs as I want to around the item to hold it in place. After I am through cutting out the piece, I have to use a small screwdriver to pop the knob (or whatever) out of the wood. Then sand the tab off.

(3) Your last demo apparently used a 1/4" straight bit! Perfect for the "knob" job. So, your software, I guess, is flexible enough to be told Bit parameters... If a bit change were desired, would it stop to allow you to change bits, then continue once you gave the GO signal?
A. Yes the machine will stop to change bits. One of my future upgrades I am planning is to add a tool changer to the CNC. With this tool changer, the CNC will automatically go to the tool changer, drop off the router bit you just got through with, and then pick up the next bit that will be needed. All automatically.. You can see some videos of this at work:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...11940888627972
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...45240137833037
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...91859906584476

(4) The Table / Sled / Bed, or whatever you call it, looks very rugged and strong! Are the blue parts, ends, etc., a different kind of metal? Does the sled move on free rolling Rollers but controlled with cables? What is the main way the movements are controlled?
A. Probably 90% of the machine is made out of mdf. About the only metal parts are the pipes that the skateboard bearings run on and the threaded rod that controls the travel. The machine moves three different ways x, y & z ( x-left & right y-across the table & back z -up & down) and there is a stepper motor that your computer controls for each of these axis. The stepper motor is attached to a threaded rod (in my case a 1/2"x 18) and this controls how far & in what direction the machine travels for each cut. Sounds complicated but after watching one work a couple of times, everything falls into place.

(5) Can you give us a Link to the Forum(s) that you used to get help as well as any other helpful Links?
A. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15139 You will have to register to see the pictures - which you must do to appreciate this machine.

(6) What are the sources data types from which you can work? For your sign; jpg or graphic pic? Mech. drawing, CADCAM software?
A. The software I use to do most of the drawing is Vcarve Pro - http://www.vectric.com/WebSite/Vectr.../vcp_index.htm and the software to control the CNC is Mach3 - http://www.machsupport.com/artsoft/index/index.htm. As far as I am concerned, this is the best and simpliest software I have seen. Some of the other software cost $1000's and takes a rocket scientist to use.

(7) Does your software use the machine to determine wood thickness or do you explicitly tell it?
A. I have to tell the software how thick the wood is.

(8) If you wanted, could you change bits in the Knob Job to Roundover the outside edges?
A. yes

(9) How much do you leave uncut, at the bottom, to keep pieces in place?
A. I tell the software how thick and how long to leave the tabs. (see question 2). I usually set mine up to leave the tabs 1/8" thick and 1/4"long. I can put as many tabs as I want and whatever size I think I need around a piece. Small pieces, I usually leave 2 tabs and on larger pieces I leave 4. This could change if I thought I needed more.

**challagan** · 08-12-2007, 01:14 AM

Wow, now that is cool. Sweet machine!

Corey

**harrysin** · 08-12-2007, 02:59 AM

"You will have to register to see the pictures - which you must do to appreciate this machine."

O dear Joe, does this mean that you are going to forgo the pleasure of visiting this forum? (refer to you're answer to my suggestion that registration be required to visit Router Forums.com)

Joe Lyddon · 08-12-2007, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueGoose

You guys are like I was when I first got started - inquisitive and excited about the machine. I hope I have answered all of your questions. If you have any more let me know and I will try my best to answer them.

(1) PLEASE tell me it didn't cost an arm and a leg to make
A. I probably have @$1000 in the machine and another $600 in the software. You can use the same software I do free but what it does is limited.

(2) Was the one straight cutter used for all three operations and am I right in thinking that the cutter didn't go all the way through to prevent the knobs breaking free and hitting the cutter.
A. Yes it was one cutter. If you look at the video closely, on the last pass, you can see the machine picking the router bit up just a small amount. With this software, I can put as many tabs as I want to around the item to hold it in place. After I am through cutting out the piece, I have to use a small screwdriver to pop the knob (or whatever) out of the wood. Then sand the tab off.

(3) Your last demo apparently used a 1/4" straight bit! Perfect for the "knob" job. So, your software, I guess, is flexible enough to be told Bit parameters... If a bit change were desired, would it stop to allow you to change bits, then continue once you gave the GO signal?
A. Yes the machine will stop to change bits. One of my future upgrades I am planning is to add a tool changer to the CNC. With this tool changer, the CNC will automatically go to the tool changer, drop off the router bit you just got through with, and then pick up the next bit that will be needed. All automatically.. You can see some videos of this at work:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...11940888627972
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...45240137833037
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...91859906584476

(4) The Table / Sled / Bed, or whatever you call it, looks very rugged and strong! Are the blue parts, ends, etc., a different kind of metal? Does the sled move on free rolling Rollers but controlled with cables? What is the main way the movements are controlled?
A. Probably 90% of the machine is made out of mdf. About the only metal parts are the pipes that the skateboard bearings run on and the threaded rod that controls the travel. The machine moves three different ways x, y & z ( x-left & right y-across the table & back z -up & down) and there is a stepper motor that your computer controls for each of these axis. The stepper motor is attached to a threaded rod (in my case a 1/2"x 18) and this controls how far & in what direction the machine travels for each cut. Sounds complicated but after watching one work a couple of times, everything falls into place.

(5) Can you give us a Link to the Forum(s) that you used to get help as well as any other helpful Links?
A. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15139 You will have to register to see the pictures - which you must do to appreciate this machine.

(6) What are the sources data types from which you can work? For your sign; jpg or graphic pic? Mech. drawing, CADCAM software?
A. The software I use to do most of the drawing is Vcarve Pro - http://www.vectric.com/WebSite/Vectr.../vcp_index.htm and the software to control the CNC is Mach3 - http://www.machsupport.com/artsoft/index/index.htm. As far as I am concerned, this is the best and simpliest software I have seen. Some of the other software cost $1000's and takes a rocket scientist to use.

(7) Does your software use the machine to determine wood thickness or do you explicitly tell it?
A. I have to tell the software how thick the wood is.

(8) If you wanted, could you change bits in the Knob Job to Roundover the outside edges?
A. yes

(9) How much do you leave uncut, at the bottom, to keep pieces in place?
A. I tell the software how thick and how long to leave the tabs. (see question 2). I usually set mine up to leave the tabs 1/8" thick and 1/4"long. I can put as many tabs as I want and whatever size I think I need around a piece. Small pieces, I usually leave 2 tabs and on larger pieces I leave 4. This could change if I thought I needed more.

Hey BlueOne,

Thanks again!

OOOOOO... The following links cannot be found... Error 404

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...11940888627972
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...45240137833037
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...91859906584476

I'll have to do some studying...

DougO · 08-13-2007, 03:08 AM

Oops, sorry about the links. I did not try them after I cut and pasted them. Try these links. I think they will work better.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...11940888627972
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...45240137833037
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...91859906584476

Joe Lyddon · 08-13-2007, 11:39 AM

Thank you!

WOW! That looks like an Arm & a Leg to get into!! Those bits have to cost a lot more!

DougO · 08-13-2007, 04:38 PM

The bits are just regular router bits. The holders are what you are talking about costing. I am not sure what their cost is. I think they are @$25 each.

08-12-2007, 01:02 AM	#12
DougO Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Mississippi Posts: 181 View DougO's Gallery	Report This Post! You guys are like I was when I first got started - inquisitive and excited about the machine. I hope I have answered all of your questions. If you have any more let me know and I will try my best to answer them. (1) PLEASE tell me it didn't cost an arm and a leg to make A. I probably have @$1000 in the machine and another $600 in the software. You can use the same software I do free but what it does is limited. (2) Was the one straight cutter used for all three operations and am I right in thinking that the cutter didn't go all the way through to prevent the knobs breaking free and hitting the cutter. A. Yes it was one cutter. If you look at the video closely, on the last pass, you can see the machine picking the router bit up just a small amount. With this software, I can put as many tabs as I want to around the item to hold it in place. After I am through cutting out the piece, I have to use a small screwdriver to pop the knob (or whatever) out of the wood. Then sand the tab off. (3) Your last demo apparently used a 1/4" straight bit! Perfect for the "knob" job. So, your software, I guess, is flexible enough to be told Bit parameters... If a bit change were desired, would it stop to allow you to change bits, then continue once you gave the GO signal? A. Yes the machine will stop to change bits. One of my future upgrades I am planning is to add a tool changer to the CNC. With this tool changer, the CNC will automatically go to the tool changer, drop off the router bit you just got through with, and then pick up the next bit that will be needed. All automatically.. You can see some videos of this at work: http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...11940888627972 http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...45240137833037 http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...91859906584476 (4) The Table / Sled / Bed, or whatever you call it, looks very rugged and strong! Are the blue parts, ends, etc., a different kind of metal? Does the sled move on free rolling Rollers but controlled with cables? What is the main way the movements are controlled? A. Probably 90% of the machine is made out of mdf. About the only metal parts are the pipes that the skateboard bearings run on and the threaded rod that controls the travel. The machine moves three different ways x, y & z ( x-left & right y-across the table & back z -up & down) and there is a stepper motor that your computer controls for each of these axis. The stepper motor is attached to a threaded rod (in my case a 1/2"x 18) and this controls how far & in what direction the machine travels for each cut. Sounds complicated but after watching one work a couple of times, everything falls into place. (5) Can you give us a Link to the Forum(s) that you used to get help as well as any other helpful Links? A. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15139 You will have to register to see the pictures - which you must do to appreciate this machine. (6) What are the sources data types from which you can work? For your sign; jpg or graphic pic? Mech. drawing, CADCAM software? A. The software I use to do most of the drawing is Vcarve Pro - http://www.vectric.com/WebSite/Vectr.../vcp_index.htm and the software to control the CNC is Mach3 - http://www.machsupport.com/artsoft/index/index.htm. As far as I am concerned, this is the best and simpliest software I have seen. Some of the other software cost $1000's and takes a rocket scientist to use. (7) Does your software use the machine to determine wood thickness or do you explicitly tell it? A. I have to tell the software how thick the wood is. (8) If you wanted, could you change bits in the Knob Job to Roundover the outside edges? A. yes (9) How much do you leave uncut, at the bottom, to keep pieces in place? A. I tell the software how thick and how long to leave the tabs. (see question 2). I usually set mine up to leave the tabs 1/8" thick and 1/4"long. I can put as many tabs as I want and whatever size I think I need around a piece. Small pieces, I usually leave 2 tabs and on larger pieces I leave 4. This could change if I thought I needed more. Last edited by DougO; 08-12-2007 at 01:04 AM. Reason: add to
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08-12-2007, 01:14 AM	#13
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 4,002 View challagan's Gallery	Report This Post! Wow, now that is cool. Sweet machine! Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/
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08-12-2007, 02:59 AM	#14
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 3,333 View harrysin's Gallery	Report This Post! "You will have to register to see the pictures - which you must do to appreciate this machine." O dear Joe, does this mean that you are going to forgo the pleasure of visiting this forum? (refer to you're answer to my suggestion that registration be required to visit Router Forums.com) __________________ *Harry*
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08-13-2007, 03:08 AM	#16
DougO Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Mississippi Posts: 181 View DougO's Gallery	Report This Post! Oops, sorry about the links. I did not try them after I cut and pasted them. Try these links. I think they will work better. http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...11940888627972 http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...45240137833037 http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...91859906584476
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08-13-2007, 11:39 AM	#17
Joe Lyddon Banned Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Alta Loma, CA USA Posts: 2,168 View Joe Lyddon's Gallery	Report This Post! Thank you! WOW! That looks like an Arm & a Leg to get into!! Those bits have to cost a lot more!
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08-13-2007, 04:38 PM	#18
DougO Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Mississippi Posts: 181 View DougO's Gallery	Report This Post! The bits are just regular router bits. The holders are what you are talking about costing. I am not sure what their cost is. I think they are @$25 each.
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