RouterForums.com - 2008 Holiday Contest

blurry

I'm pretty new to woodworking, so I'll share a newbie tip a friend showed me. I was cutting 4x8 sheets of luan for an extra bed in the RV and was having a bugger of a time getting straight cuts out of my circular saw. One of my friends stopped by and ripped off about a 3" piece with the factory edge on one side, then a larger piece (probably about 10" wide). He used some liquid mails to glue the smaller piece on top of the larger piece with the hand cut edge flush with the wider hand cut edge. let it dry, then riped the length using the factory edge as a guide - end result - an 8 foot long straight edge guide who'se edge markes where the saw is going to cut!

Hope that helps!

Advertising



Remove these advertisements by registering for your free RouterForums.com account today!

cruiser

delete
Cruiser

cruiser

About 5 months ago I bought a new Milwaukee 2 1/2 hp router kit after studying the different reviews and options for months. At the same time I modified my full size router table so I could quickly tilt and block the table top up about 45 degrees to adjust depth of cut without having to abuse my bad back any longer by squatting to adjust it. The Milwaukee is very smooth and powerful with a high quality feel to it. It is push button EZ to drop the router motor out of the fixed table base and move it to the hand held plunge base or change bits.
I REALLY like the tilt up top--I have the tilt adjusted with the support stick so I can stand up straight and clearly see and adjust the bit height with no back strain. My Porter Cable adjustable edge guide fits the Milwaukee plunge base perfectly so I didn't have to buy the Milwaukee accessory. Also,immediately under the table top when lifted I built in a slanted dust chute in the center and shallow trays on either side so wrenches, top support stick, RWShop brass guage blocks, frequently used tools, etc are right handy as soon as I tilt up the top.
All in all, I have been very happy with the project and the Milwaukee. My trusty old PC 690 will now permanently wear its "pistol grip" base for hand held use.

Cruiser

jeff_shorter

My friend and I were building a toy box for his niece. I asked him the size and he told me he wants it to be 36"tall, 36"deep and 6 foot wide. This toybox had an 45 degree angle front. We made it from redwood. The rich redwood color when poly-coated looked beautiful.
We delivered it to her birthday party. Everyone loved it. To this day it sits in the garage, because the doorways entering the house are 30" wide.

Moral of this story, measure the doorways before committing your size to your project.

P.S. 2 weeks later we finished a scaled down version that now sits in her room.

Divotdog

The easiest thing to do is to cut slots in a board to use with your guide bushing. The length and width of the slot will be determined by the bit and the guide bushing that you choose. So you will have a board with slots for different length mortises for each bit size (diameter).

Typically, your slots will be wide enough for a 3/4" bushing, which will center the bit in the slot - this takes care of the mortise width. Then allow enough space from the outside edge of your bit to each end of each slot - this takes care of the mortise length.

No complicated jigs are needed, just boards with slots!

Tale Gunner

When limited space is a factor, I made a router table using the narrow width of tabletop. But when I needed the wider space I made extensions on hinges that were held up by legs that simply would side into a slot on the underside to give the table twice the space. I even routed the slot and used a incra miter channel that aligned the entire width of the table. Now when I need the additional space I just raise up the extensions and place my table legs in the slots.

timber715

I have always found it difficult to cut straight, parallel and square. I don't have a table saw but I have a jigsaw, circular saw, router table etc.. whenever I use the jigsaw or circular saw I always find myself trying to make the board as parallel as possible. It turns out that I can do rip and cross cuts on the router table. I use the thinnest(smallest) straight bit (1/8" in my case) and use the fence as a reference. cut it from both sides in several passes. when I'm thru, the boards are parallel and square. all I do next is cut the ends. the router table truly is the most versatile tool in any workshop...

Woodenhead

Greetings,
Maybe most of you who are experienced router users know what I'm about to relate, but I didn't and it cost me a lot of time and frustration learning. I hope I can save someone's sanity.
I wanted to make some utility drawers and thought I would join the sides with box joints. I had some good quality 1/2" ply on hand and decided to use it. All I succeded in doing is waste a lot of time, ruin good ply and frustrate myself. Not only did I get tearout even using a backer, it actually tore out plies between the fingers. The bit was a brand new carbide two flute of reputable mfg. I may have been more successful using a spiral bit, but I don't own one yet.
My opinion, for what it's worth, don't waste your time trying to make box joints out of plywood stock. John

bobj3

Hi timber

It's true that the router table is a great tool

But you can pickup a hand saw and get the job done easy,, many say I can't cut a strait line with a hand saw ,,, you can if you make a quick jig.

Just clamp two 2 x 4's to the stock and with a small slot between the 2 x 4's for the saw blade ,you will have a true cut...you can pickup a cross cut and a rip hand saw very cheap...if you look inside of a good carpenter tool box you will always see the two saws...it's a 101 wood shop thing...


=========

__________________
MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos
plus FREE MLCS Project Plans
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html

Part Finder
find parts for your power tools
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/
Need some help replacing the parts
http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/

Many Router Tips from RWS
http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html
http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/

Router Tables ,Ready to use
http://www.rt1000.com/
http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html

Bob J.

Mark

Thanks for the entires!

__________________
Mark,
Administrator & Founder of RouterForums.com

RouterWorkshop.net - Get more out of your router!
TalkHobbies.com - Hobby and Lifestyle Discussion Community - Join now FREE (click here)
Download the RouterForums.com Toolbar! (FREE)