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| This is a discussion on polyurethane. Whats the secrets? within the The Finishing Touch forums, part of the General Woodworking category; O.k. Cabots gloss aerosol poly. (or any aerosol poly i guess) I have a guitar ... |
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| | #1 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
O.k. Cabots gloss aerosol poly. (or any aerosol poly i guess) I have a guitar body ready to be sealed. Tried light passes with the cabots. Result ? Rough and stipply. Was told to pound it on HEAVY. 2- 3 coats. No sanding between coats and no final sanding or polish needed. Anybody have anything they would like to share on this topic. Experiences good or bad? Seems like sanding between passes would be a neccessity. Was told i had to apply succesive coats within an hour, or wait 24. Also that i had to wait 72 hours before sanding.Will it go like glass.. ever? without sanding? WHAT IS THE STORY WITH POLYURETHANE?? PLEASE. | ||
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| | #2 (permalink) | ||
| Retired Moderator ![]() |
Hi Paul and welcome to the forum. My opinion (and everyone has them ) is that lacquer may have been a better choice for a guitar. I am no expert and I am sure that those with more knowledge will follow shortly with more detailed advice.
__________________ a/k/a "Grumpa" | ||
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| | #3 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Yes, You are correct. But since I used an enamel paint, I was told laquer would not work. So I was relegated to poly, which since it is fast drying I thought I could live and learn and get this one out of the way. But yeah ............ nitro laquer seems to be the finish most noted for guitars. Thanks. | ||
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| | #4 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
And lacquer cures much quicker than polyurethane varnish. Jerry | ||
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| | #5 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
Years ago poly was my main finish. I would put three or four coats, allow each to dry, no sanding, then after the final coat was hard after a few days, I would rub down with 0000 wire wool lubricated with wax polish, in fact on several occasions I used engine oil! The final result was always a glass smooth finish with a gloss dependent upon how much elbow grease was applied to the rubbing down.
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | ||
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| | #6 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Engine oil. Thats interesting. Why engine oil?? And......... did you use aerosol poly? | ||
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| | #7 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
"Why engine oil??" Because I had lots of it, any lubricant works as well, in later years I progressed to Johnson's wax polish. Whilst I have used spray poly finished as described on small projects, all my bigger ones had the poly brushed on liberally, the first coat thinned a little with turps. Here are some samples that were finished that way. The Pine Welsh dresser close to 25 years ago, now my son's. The blanket chest made for my grandson when he was born 20 years ago, cared for by his mother 'till he leaves home! Finally the glory box made about 6 years ago for my granddaughter who, in about 8 weeks will move into her new home at present being completed. The last shot shows where I slipped up by not allowing space for movement of the wood.
__________________ Harry The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/ | ||
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| | #8 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
I've been using mineral oil on many things. Brings the grain right out.
__________________ . Never, under any circumstances, combine a sleeping pill and a laxative on the same night. Mike - Retired FoMoCo Tradesman My Gallery @ http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/ | ||
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| | #9 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Well sir, from what I can see you know a great deal about woodworking. Very nice. So obviously you can brush on a finish and have it come out nice. How do you get away from brush strokes? Or are there any even left behind? Sand between coats? How many coats? Maybe a brush on or maybe a wipe on would work for me. Just wondering about getting it level and smooth. Thanks to one and all for your input. You dont know how much I do appreciate it. Such a warehouse of knowledge and experience. It cant hurt to ask. | ||
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| | #10 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
ok... sorry Harry. I reread your earlier post about 3-4 coats , no sanding, 000 steel wool. | ||
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