Bob

Harry,

I would be surprised if you are getting much if any benefit beyond the 2nd coat if you are using Danish Oil as the wood has absorbed about all it can at that point. Have you tried to stop at 2 coats and finish it out to see if there is any difference?

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Cheers,
Bob

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boxer

Thanks for all of the responses. I have been using Watco natural for a while now. I bought some Olympic antique danish oil when the Lowes near me was out of Watco. It seems to have a slight tint to it. I decided to use it on some tiger maple I have. The finishing schedule is different than the Watco.
I recently saw a video on youtube about how to make figured maple pop. I sort of followed the directions except I didn't use any stain or dyes. I use a lot of exotic woods so I don't have to. Anyway, I only sanded to 150 grit. I then applied the danish oil. After 24 hours I then sanded to 220 grit and reapplied. I have to say that this procedure really helped with making the figure pop. I don't think I would use the Olympic with the bloodwood or other exotics, or even apply it the same way. I'll try to find a link to the video on this. That guy has some pretty good ideas. It's titled Make Tiger Maple Pop.
Thanks again for all of the help. Kevin

jerrymayfield

Danish oil is a advertising name for an oil varnish mix. The average is about 1/3 each oil(usually linseed),varnish(usually polyurethane varnish) and mineral spirits. There are no standards and the percentages vary a great deal,Watco is almost 50% solvent. If you are just interested in popping the grain without using dye and/or shellac, flood the surface with linseed oil let it soak for 20-30 minutes wipe off excess and buff the surface well. Let it cure for a couple days and apply a top coat. What protection danish oil offers is from the very thin varnish component.

Regards

Jerry

Bob

Jerry,

Thanks for clarifying the mixture and I was hoping you would be along to do just that for us. Based on the above, one question comes to mind. From what you have described, there really would be no need to go beyond the first coat of this mixture as the wood is sealed at the point of the first coat from the varnish and it could not absorb any additional oil. That being said, wouldn't you get better (or at least same) results just switching to varnish after the first coat has cured?

I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on that.

__________________
Cheers,
Bob

Pictures from the shop

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Bob

Boxer,

Here is your link on making tiger pop. Charles Neil is fast becoming one of my favorite woodworkers on video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWCptCxNx4I

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Cheers,
Bob

Pictures from the shop

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boxer

Thanks, Bob. That's the one. He has a couple of videos on there for popping figure. I agree, he is becoming one of mine also.

harrysin

My reason for applying so many coats was that I thought that I would go through the surface when rubbing down with wire wool, when I want a good shine I rub harder and longer!. Next project I shall try two coats on a test piece and report on my findings Bob.

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Harry

jerrymayfield

The first coat of any film finish is a sealer coat. I can see no advantage to using "danish oil" and then top coating with varnish. To add the amber color that the oil imparts simply use a varnish with a phenolic resin base. Two-three brushed coats or four-six or more wiped on coats. And please don't buy wiping varnish, make your own.

Regards

Jerry

Bob

Thanks Jerry, I thought that is about what you would say.

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Cheers,
Bob

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nzgeordie

Like Harry, I apply more than 2 coats of Danish Oil (usually 3 or 4) with a 600 or 800 wet 'n dry rub down while wet then wiped off within 5 mins and with 24 hours drying between each coat. I've found you get 'depth' without a high gloss finish. One thing I have experienced tho' is that the previous coat is liable to scratch if rubbed too hard with the wet 'n dry and the score marks show up under the final coat. That's why I've never been brave enough to use 000 wire wool.

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Pete
I've cut it twice and it's still too short! But only at one end.