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**harrysin** · 12-01-2007, 02:10 AM

Like you Geordie, I consider that I get depth to the finish, but unlike you I don't rub down until the final coat has hardened, and then it is with 0000 wire wool and wax. I shall however compare just two coats with my normal five on the same test piece so that both sections will receive the same amount of rubbing down.

jerrymayfield · 12-02-2007, 10:11 AM

You can apply as many coats as you like,but after the wood is sealed you will be wiping off most of what you apply (other than what evaporates)

Regards

Jerry

cabinetman · 01-29-2008, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerrymayfield

Danish oil is a advertising name for an oil varnish mix. The average is about 1/3 each oil(usually linseed),varnish(usually polyurethane varnish) and mineral spirits. There are no standards and the percentages vary a great deal,Watco is almost 50% solvent. If you are just interested in popping the grain without using dye and/or shellac, flood the surface with linseed oil let it soak for 20-30 minutes wipe off excess and buff the surface well. Let it cure for a couple days and apply a top coat. What protection danish oil offers is from the very thin varnish component.

Regards

Jerry

You're correct on what "Danish Oil" really is. Being a mix of MS, varnish and oil, if mixed with linseed oil and type of varnish, will have a tendency to get amberish with several applications. It can be mixed with pure tung oil also, which won't have an amberish tint. I found it much more advantageous to mix my own, thus controlling the mix ratios, and giving the results I'm after. It also saves a lot of money.

As for the finishes marked as "something finish", tung oil is only "pure" tung oil if the can is marked "Pure Tung Oil", or 100% Tung oil.

Thrifty Tool Guy · 01-30-2008, 08:46 AM

Harry,

I've done several pieces with Olympic Danish Oil and Formby's Tung Oil and I've definitely seen build-up after 3-4 coats. So, I agree with your observations.

Having said that, perhaps, Jerry is correct about a "true" danish oil. If so, if we like the natural oil finish and depth that we getting from our process, I wonder if a single coat of our Danish Oil "blends" and a clear lacquer top coat would be easier/process to the same end?

TTG

jerrymayfield · 01-30-2008, 09:47 AM

The Olympic is an oil varnish, the Formby's is a thin wiping varnish made with an alkd resin neither contain any tung oil.

Regards

Jerry

Thrifty Tool Guy · 01-30-2008, 02:17 PM

Yes, and so is WATCO. All pretty darn similar.

oldnewbie · 06-12-2008, 10:49 AM

I conclude, then, that my next step, after 2 coats of Formbys tung oil, is 2 or more coats of wipe-on poly. Would this be acceptable? Just re-finishing some boxes and a new clock. Thanks for this forum, Great stuff!!

Neal

12-01-2007, 02:10 AM	#21
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 2,651 View harrysin's Gallery	Like you Geordie, I consider that I get depth to the finish, but unlike you I don't rub down until the final coat has hardened, and then it is with 0000 wire wool and wax. I shall however compare just two coats with my normal five on the same test piece so that both sections will receive the same amount of rubbing down. __________________ *Harry*
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12-02-2007, 10:11 AM	#22
jerrymayfield Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 437 View jerrymayfield's Gallery	You can apply as many coats as you like,but after the wood is sealed you will be wiping off most of what you apply (other than what evaporates) Regards Jerry
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01-30-2008, 08:46 AM	#24
Thrifty Tool Guy Registered User Sr. Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 71 View Thrifty Tool Guy's Gallery	Harry, I've done several pieces with Olympic Danish Oil and Formby's Tung Oil and I've definitely seen build-up after 3-4 coats. So, I agree with your observations. Having said that, perhaps, Jerry is correct about a "true" danish oil. If so, if we like the natural oil finish and depth that we getting from our process, I wonder if a single coat of our Danish Oil "blends" and a clear lacquer top coat would be easier/process to the same end? TTG
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01-30-2008, 09:47 AM	#25
jerrymayfield Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 437 View jerrymayfield's Gallery	The Olympic is an oil varnish, the Formby's is a thin wiping varnish made with an alkd resin neither contain any tung oil. Regards Jerry
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01-30-2008, 02:17 PM	#26
Thrifty Tool Guy Registered User Sr. Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 71 View Thrifty Tool Guy's Gallery	Yes, and so is WATCO. All pretty darn similar.
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06-12-2008, 10:49 AM	#27
oldnewbie Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Taylor, MI Posts: 128 View oldnewbie's Gallery	I conclude, then, that my next step, after 2 coats of Formbys tung oil, is 2 or more coats of wipe-on poly. Would this be acceptable? Just re-finishing some boxes and a new clock. Thanks for this forum, Great stuff!! Neal
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