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boxer · 11-28-2007, 12:30 PM

For those of you who use Danish Oil, do you go by the directions on the can? Or do you have your own schedule that works better for you? I've seen different brands have different instructions and wondered if anyone had a tried and true method they would share.
Thanks, Kevin

**Bob** · 11-28-2007, 01:49 PM

Flood it on the wood and let set for 20 minutes. Wipe off excess and let sit over night. Repeat once and that's it.

Great stuff!

boxer · 11-28-2007, 04:08 PM

I appreciate it, Bob. Do you do any sanding between coats?
Kevin

**Bob** · 11-28-2007, 04:40 PM

No sanding, just apply and let dry. Danish oil does not raise grain nor have bubbles like varnish products. I have gotten by with 4 hours drying time between coats if you need to push it some. Just be sure the 2nd coat dries over night or longer though.

**Mike** · 11-28-2007, 04:59 PM

Danish oil is not like most finishing products. It soaks into the wood rather than sit on top of it. How deep it penetrates depends on the type of wood among other things. I treated some small sample pieces of different types of wood to see how the finish would turn out. With maple and red oak the Watco danish oil I used penetrated about 1/8", on zebrawood about 3/8", so it is a good idea to test finish a small piece of waste material before applying any finish to see how it turns out.
Danish oil does not build up above the surface the way lacquer or polyurethane does, so it has little value protecting against scratches. After danish oil has dried completely you can apply a different product like poly for protection and a "deeper" finish.

**challagan** · 11-28-2007, 09:13 PM

I pretty much do the same as Bob Noles. I like Danish oil to pop the grain and followed up with a couple coats poly rubbed out with steel wool and wax.

Corey

**harrysin** · 11-28-2007, 09:18 PM

Kevin, most of my projects over the last seven years have been finished with Danish oil. I apply the first coat with a brush so that it gets into every nook and cranny. I leave this to harden for at least a day depending on the temperature. The next four coats I apply with a rag, and again leave a day between coats except for the last one, the longer the better to let it really harden. I don't sand between coats but after the last one I rub down with 0000 wire wool lubricated with Johnsons wax polish, this leaves a glass like surface and imparts a sort of patina giving the wood a very natural appearance. I recall discussing Danish oil with Corey some time ago and it appears that all Danish oils are not the same, Corey spoke of the one he was using as being quite watery whereas the RUSTINS brand that I use is as I would expect an oil to be.

**challagan** · 11-28-2007, 11:46 PM

Like Harry says, the Watco brand danish oil I use and the most prevalent here in the US while oily has a very thin watery consistency. It does not build up a surface film. Most danish oils don't. I suspect that what Harry is using while called a danish oil finish is actually an oil varnish finish that allows a surface film to be built up and has more solids/polymers in it.

Corey

**harrysin** · 11-29-2007, 05:24 AM

Wow Corey, you are getting technical and as I am unable to agree or disagree with you I have a tin in front of me and will copy what is on the can.

In one area it says

anish oil contains tung oil and other special ingredients which penetrate deep into all types of timber, drying to a hard durable and water resistant seal. The oil primes seals and finishes all woods, incl. interior Oak, Teak, Mahogony, Pine and all veneered surfaces. It does not leave a surface film to chip or scratch. May also be used as a primer before painting or varnishing. Excellent for use on all turned work, incl. wooden handles of kitchen equipment tops of storage jars.
At the bottom end of the can it has: Contains cobolt octoate, methyl ethyl ketoxime, naptha. There is also a health warning.
I had to use a magnifying glass to read that as the letters are no more than 1/32"
I hope this means more to you Corey than it does to me.

**challagan** · 11-29-2007, 08:16 AM

Hi Harry, sorry I was under the impression that you were able to build up surface layers to get a floss film on top. That's whyt I was thinking that it was not a true danish oil. In the US manufacturers of finish have to put very little on the can as far as ingredients. It does sound pretty much like the oil we use otherwise.

Corey

11-28-2007, 12:30 PM	#1
boxer Registered User Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 1,087 View boxer's Gallery	Report This Post! Danish oil For those of you who use Danish Oil, do you go by the directions on the can? Or do you have your own schedule that works better for you? I've seen different brands have different instructions and wondered if anyone had a tried and true method they would share. Thanks, Kevin
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11-28-2007, 01:49 PM	#2
Bob Forum Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Georgia USA Posts: 2,542 View Bob's Gallery	Report This Post! Flood it on the wood and let set for 20 minutes. Wipe off excess and let sit over night. Repeat once and that's it. Great stuff! __________________ Cheers, Bob
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11-28-2007, 04:08 PM	#3
boxer Registered User Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 1,087 View boxer's Gallery	Report This Post! I appreciate it, Bob. Do you do any sanding between coats? Kevin
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11-28-2007, 04:40 PM	#4
Bob Forum Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Georgia USA Posts: 2,542 View Bob's Gallery	Report This Post! No sanding, just apply and let dry. Danish oil does not raise grain nor have bubbles like varnish products. I have gotten by with 4 hours drying time between coats if you need to push it some. Just be sure the 2nd coat dries over night or longer though. __________________ Cheers, Bob Last edited by Bob; 11-28-2007 at 05:33 PM.
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11-28-2007, 04:59 PM	#5
Mike Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Detroit, Michigan USA Posts: 3,380 View Mike's Gallery	Report This Post! Danish oil is not like most finishing products. It soaks into the wood rather than sit on top of it. How deep it penetrates depends on the type of wood among other things. I treated some small sample pieces of different types of wood to see how the finish would turn out. With maple and red oak the Watco danish oil I used penetrated about 1/8", on zebrawood about 3/8", so it is a good idea to test finish a small piece of waste material before applying any finish to see how it turns out. Danish oil does not build up above the surface the way lacquer or polyurethane does, so it has little value protecting against scratches. After danish oil has dried completely you can apply a different product like poly for protection and a "deeper" finish. __________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you.
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11-28-2007, 09:13 PM	#6
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 4,002 View challagan's Gallery	Report This Post! I pretty much do the same as Bob Noles. I like Danish oil to pop the grain and followed up with a couple coats poly rubbed out with steel wool and wax. Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/
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11-28-2007, 09:18 PM	#7
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 3,333 View harrysin's Gallery	Report This Post! Kevin, most of my projects over the last seven years have been finished with Danish oil. I apply the first coat with a brush so that it gets into every nook and cranny. I leave this to harden for at least a day depending on the temperature. The next four coats I apply with a rag, and again leave a day between coats except for the last one, the longer the better to let it really harden. I don't sand between coats but after the last one I rub down with 0000 wire wool lubricated with Johnsons wax polish, this leaves a glass like surface and imparts a sort of patina giving the wood a very natural appearance. I recall discussing Danish oil with Corey some time ago and it appears that all Danish oils are not the same, Corey spoke of the one he was using as being quite watery whereas the RUSTINS brand that I use is as I would expect an oil to be. __________________ *Harry*
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11-28-2007, 11:46 PM	#8
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 4,002 View challagan's Gallery	Report This Post! Like Harry says, the Watco brand danish oil I use and the most prevalent here in the US while oily has a very thin watery consistency. It does not build up a surface film. Most danish oils don't. I suspect that what Harry is using while called a danish oil finish is actually an oil varnish finish that allows a surface film to be built up and has more solids/polymers in it. Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/
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11-29-2007, 05:24 AM	#9
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 3,333 View harrysin's Gallery	Report This Post! Wow Corey, you are getting technical and as I am unable to agree or disagree with you I have a tin in front of me and will copy what is on the can. In one area it saysanish oil contains tung oil and other special ingredients which penetrate deep into all types of timber, drying to a hard durable and water resistant seal. The oil primes seals and finishes all woods, incl. interior Oak, Teak, Mahogony, Pine and all veneered surfaces. It does not leave a surface film to chip or scratch. May also be used as a primer before painting or varnishing. Excellent for use on all turned work, incl. wooden handles of kitchen equipment tops of storage jars. At the bottom end of the can it has: Contains cobolt octoate, methyl ethyl ketoxime, naptha. There is also a health warning. I had to use a magnifying glass to read that as the letters are no more than 1/32" I hope this means more to you Corey than it does to me. __________________ *Harry* Last edited by harrysin; 11-29-2007 at 05:26 AM. Reason: A "D" on Danish was replaced with a face, but it's vanished
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11-29-2007, 08:16 AM	#10
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 4,002 View challagan's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Harry, sorry I was under the impression that you were able to build up surface layers to get a floss film on top. That's whyt I was thinking that it was not a true danish oil. In the US manufacturers of finish have to put very little on the can as far as ingredients. It does sound pretty much like the oil we use otherwise. Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/
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