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| Registered User Forum Geek | For those of you with some walnut experience… I’m going to be following Doug Hick’s schedule for Danish Oil as discussed on his pod cast and seminar download: http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...and-varnishes/ For the 1st coat the process is to flood the surface with Danish oil, wait 30 mins, apply more oil to the dry spots, wait 15 mins, wipe the surface “tight”. Then he also mentions to check back every half hour for “bleedback” and to wipe it off. I know in the seminar he mentions oak has this issue because of the open grain. I know walnut has an open grain also and I’m just wondering what to expect… |
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| Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King | I haven't had this problem at all on walnut but that doesn't mean it won't happen. I wonder if humidity affects it as well. It can happen on close grain woods as well as I have had it happen on some of my cherry turnings. Corey
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| Registered User Forum Geek | It is red oak that has the "bleedback" problem,not white oak,nor walnut. I'm sure you are aware that so called "Danish Oil" is a mixture of linseed oil,varnish and mineral spirits. Most contain over 40% mineral spirits. While it is easy to apply it really doesn't offer a lot of protection. If you want to use it why not mix your own and save a little money. Regards Jerry |
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| Registered User Forum Geek | Yes Jerry I do plan to mix my own in the future. For now I have a can of Watco I need to go through. I did a sample last night on some walnut scrap. I didn’t see any bleedback. I’ll start finishing the walnut burl box tonight. Of course I’ll take pics and add it to my thread over in show and tell. Stay tuned for more and thanks for the feedback! |
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| | #5 |
| Registered User Forum Geek | Just something else to consider for the future,freshly mixed orange shellac looks absolutely beautiful on walnut. Regards Jerry |
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