bobj3

Hi

hahahahahahaha
B/4 you unload the item you got and b/4 the BOSS sees it put some mud on it and make it look like the junk that it is
I have a lowboy that the boss wants me to rework, (two doors and 3 drawers 38" hight and about 20" wide and about 5ft long) made in the 30's or so and I said OK dear and that's been 8 years ago hahahahahaha I just hate that old veneer stuff it's almost easyer to start over with some solid stock.. and use the old neat hardware and be done with it..then take a chain to it to get that old look




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Bj

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jerryc

NZGeordie,

Can see a few problems arising from using pine or ply as a ground. If you lay the veneer along the same grain line as the ground it is most likely you will have the veneer cracking as the wood base will expand at a different rate to the veneer. It would not help in such an instance to veneer on each side because the problem would remain.
If you do lay veneer on wood then it must be laid at right angles to the base grain. In effect creating another layer of ply. (Hope I'm making myself clear).

Yes I agree with the concept that what you do to one side of the wood must be done to the other to even out tensions.

On the use of contact as a method of veneering I personally never use it. Most of my veneering involves butt joining veneer to get effects I am looking for and one effect I do not want is to see gaps appear. Contact adhesive is a rubbery finish that creeps, too unstable for butt joining. It can be used where one continuous sheet of veneer is used, but there are better techniques. One method I use with success is to coat the veneer and base with cross linked PVA. Allow it to dry and then reactivated it with a household iron which is used to press the veneer into contact with the base.

Jerry

War does not decide who is right. War only decides who is left.

nzgeordie

Cheers Jerry (see my reply to your PM). I've decided to go with ply as a substrate as it seems more structurally stable. The project is a replica antique and the original piece had veneered outer surfaces with the inside surfaces covered with crimson glazed paper. I initially wondered why you would want to cover a surface that was unseen with a decorative finish then realized that it is a substitute for a lining veneer. What are your thoughts?

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Pete
I've cut it twice and it's still too short! But only at one end.

jerrymayfield

I have have used Baltic(Russian)Birch and Apple (North American) plywood and have not had any problems ever. Maybe I have just been lucky.

Regards

Jerry

jerryc

Jerrymayfield,

Yep


Jerry

War does not decide who is right. War only decides who is left