nzgeordie

I want to try my hand at veneering for the first time. I'll be using crown cut mahogany on a pine sub-strate using (I thought) a cross linking PVA adhesive.
Two questions; Is it necessary to score the surface of the pine before applying the veneer for better bonding? Second, is the type of adhesive I plan to use satisfactory or might I get bleed-through? If so, what type of adhesive would be best? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to foul up on my first attempt.

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Pete
I've cut it twice and it's still too short! But only at one end.

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Mike

Scoring is not needed. Any good wood glue or contact cement will work fine. Be sure to seal the underside of your project when you apply finish or the pine will take your veneer for a wild ride.

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Mike

Check twice!

I personally do not score the surface of the wood I am veneering, and use contact cement. This has worked very fine for me.

The down side of contact cement it does not forgive you for errors, so lay it right the first time, it does not give a second chance.

I also have buddies that use wood glue, slower setting but will forgive mistakes and allow you to reposition your piece.

My 2 cents!

John

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jerrymayfield

Try joewoodworker.com some good info on veneering and what products to use. In my experience it is better to veneer both sides of the substrate(less expensive veneer on the side that doesn't show) to even out the water vapor exchange. Mother Nature always wins so plan for it.

Regards

Jerry

nzgeordie

Thanks for the advice guys.
Mike, about the pine taking the veneer for a 'wild ride', the pine I will be using is about 30 years old (the remains of the old bed I turned into a settle on the Show n Tell) so it should be well seasoned. Will that make a difference or are you warning me of something else?
John, thanks to you but the contact cement sounds frightening to a newbie like me. I think I'll need all the time I can get to place the veneer. Perhaps when I have more practice...
Jerry, great link to Joe Woodworker!

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Pete
I've cut it twice and it's still too short! But only at one end.

Mike

Anytime you are mixing wood species you face the dilema of different rates of moisture exchange or movement. Pine being much softer will move more so Jerry's idea of using a veneer on both sides has great merit. This is like when we build a plastic laminated router table top we cover both the top and bottom with laminate. When you limit movement on one side you are looking for trouble.

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Mike

nzgeordie

Thanks Mike. Would there be any merit in choosing a different substrate such as ply or MDF? Or will I still face the same problem? The inside faces of the veneered panels will never be seen so if an aternate substrate isn't a fix, is there an alternative cover I could use on the inside to prevent the problem you've described?

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Pete
I've cut it twice and it's still too short! But only at one end.

jerrymayfield

You could use either. It is very important that the substrate is stable.

Regards

Jerry

bobj3

Hi Geordie

I would suggest you go to a garage sale and find a old cabinet/lowboy/table that was done at the furniture Mfg.then take it to your table saw and cut it up this will give you some great tips how the did it ....veneering was a big thing in the 20's & 40's in the states and I'm sure you can find some old furniture in Zealand that's not worth reworking..

The 1st.time I did this I surprise how they made the tops and some of the sides where made and how they did the joints, plus the gaps in the substrates to keep the bowing down to a min. plus how thin the veneering was...and it was only glued on to 1/8" plywood sometimes...



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nzgeordie

Thanks again guys. I think I'll consider ply as a substrate ( the project calls for 18mm or +/- 3/4" board).
Bj, whenever I bring home an old piece of furniture SWMBO falls in love with it and won't let me cut it up But I'll try.

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Pete
I've cut it twice and it's still too short! But only at one end.