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| This is a discussion on Router fence hints please within the General Routing forums, part of the Routers category; Hi there Iīm new here and I am building my self a roter table, but ... |
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| | #1 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Hi there Iīm new here and I am building my self a roter table, but I donīt know the best way the make router fence Does anyone have a good hints to me ? My table is quit big itīs 1200 mm (47,24") long or (wide) and 800mm (31,50") deep Kristian (Sweden)
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| | #2 (permalink) | ||
| Retired Moderator ![]() |
Kristian, fences are made in different ways depending on how you intend to use them. Bob and Rick from the Router Workshop say: "Keep it simple" and that makes sense to me. One of the best fences is a piece of HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) that would measure 40 MM x 50 MM x the depth of your table. This would be held in place with C clamps. When routing it is a good idea to push your wood away from you with the fence to the right of the bit. To create a clearance pocket for the bit you clamp the rear of the fence to the table, then slowly swing the fence into the bit going just a little further than you need for adjustment. This method provides good clean cuts. You can do the same thing with a good piece of hardwood, but the plastic lets your material glide smoothly.
__________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you. | ||
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| | #3 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Like Mike says a piece of wood or plastic clamped to the router table will serve you well. To dress it up a bit and see how you can use the fence to make sliding dovetail joints, flutes and tongue and groove joinery you can see an article on my website. Use google and search for 'templatesbynumbers british woodworking'. (The article is featured in this month's British Woodworking magazine.) | ||
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| | #4 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
Hi Kristian I need to disagree with the other posted items ![]() The router table fence is 1/3 of the router table...it's true you can get by with just a block of wood but why not make a good one that can do many jobs.. Here's link to show you how to make a easy one that can do many jobs... http://wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_24.html =========
__________________ MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos plus FREE MLCS Project Plans http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html Part Finder find parts for your power tools http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ Need some help replacing the parts http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/ Many Router Tips from RWS http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/ Router Tables ,Ready to use http://www.rt1000.com/ http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html Bob J. | ||
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| | #5 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Thankīs to you all nice guys Now that I got your attention... ![]() I have purchased some T-rack (or what you called it) To use for miter tracks. Where do you think I should put the "tracks" for the fence ? Are there some pictures out there in the "space" that I can get some idees from Or do you have pictures of your own tables. Kristian p.s. sorry about my bad English spelling sometimes
__________________ www.rednote.se Last edited by Kristian; 12-18-2008 at 03:10 AM. | ||
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| | #6 (permalink) | ||
| Official Greeter ![]() |
Kristian I have had the same dilemma, If you look at my post under "table mounted routing" I had the same question. It is true it depends upon what one is going to do with their router, and I am still not sure on that one so I built one that is basic based upon a 4"X4" aluminum angle that came with the kit I bought from The Router Depot http://www.routertabledepot.com/largebuildkit.html. I am not suggesting to go that route, I am not sure I would have had I found this forum prior to the purchase. If you want you can check out some galleries for ideas. As far as "T" track, I use mine to hold the Fence in position and in the fence to hold feather boards etc. but there are other way to hold the v=fence in place like clamping it to the table at each end. Let me not get myself in too deep because I am a novas this myself. The main reason I responded is I have had the same question and bobj3's suggestion is the best I've seen to get one started. I may change some of this later after I get more awake (just cause I get up early doesn't mean all system are go!!). Just a note, I plan to down load bobj3's suggestion because it is the best basic router fence I have seen so far.
__________________ Wisdom: Where experience and knowledge combine and become one. "We are all one decision away from Stupid!!" Lamentations 3:22-23 "How often we sacrifice the permanent plans of God on the altar of immediate solutions" I have a very good memory, just short is all. | ||
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| | #7 (permalink) | |||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
HI Kristian It comes down to where the router hole is in your table top.. ![]() I like the dual track, that's to say one track for the sleds and one track for tee-type bolts..it comes one Alum.bar. Many put it in the 1/3 of the table top or to say about 4" from the edge, but I like to see it on the edge of the table top But again it comes dowm where the router is in the top.. Putting in the top is tricky and you only get one shot at it... Check,and check and check again b/4 you cut the slot, put down some masking tape b/4 you start ,,this will help with the rip/chip out.. Pencil mark the masking tape, then go get some coffee and do it one more time..then when you are sure it's dead on clamp some boards to the top for guides for the router base,,,keep the bit up and push the router down the boards many times to made sure it will not jam...then b/4 you run the router down the slot clamp a board on the outside edge of the top where the bit will come out, this will help the rip out on the edge, make a very small cut on the 1st. pass this will cut the Verne layer and will give you a nice clean edge.. then set the router for a full cut...use the alum. bar for that job,,, just slip it into the router stop and lock it in place..add a hair to the setting,, I mean a hair...business card works well for this job. You don't want the Alum.bar sticking up but you don't want it to deep.. ![]() Have fun , take your time and it will come out just the want you want it to.. Just a little note,, put some masking tape over the hole in the router table, for the router,chuck up a counter sink bit 1/4" shank and raise the router up just a little bit, this will give you a small hole to use for a true center point, to use as a guide.,,,then pull the fence in place ,lock it down and true it up with front or the slot you are going to put in..then mark the masking tape for the slot.. This sounds like a lot of work, it is but you only get one shot at it.. Hope this helps ![]() ====== Quote:
__________________ MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos plus FREE MLCS Project Plans http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html Part Finder find parts for your power tools http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ Need some help replacing the parts http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/ Many Router Tips from RWS http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/ Router Tables ,Ready to use http://www.rt1000.com/ http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html Bob J. | |||
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| | #8 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: western Washington state First Name: Tom Posts: 258 ![]() |
See pic of fence. Horizontal t-track is for mounting featherboards, etc. Fence is made with scrap hardwood, made into an "L" shape. Jointed to be square, attached to t-tracks in table top. Hope this helps, Regards, Tom | ||
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| | #9 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Hi Bob I have my router centered on my table meaning approx. 400mm (15,75") from the edge of the table. Since my table is 1200 mm (47,24") long or (wide) and 800mm (31,50") deep Iīve already made the insert and drilled the hole for the router btw itīs a Bosch GMF1400 CE. Kristian
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| | #10 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Hi Tom Where can I see the picture of fence. Sorry if I didnīt understand your explanation Kristian
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