Plunge Routing Help Needed

burkelyn

I have a PC 690 series router with plunge base, etc, but I can not for the life of me figure out how to correctly set and use the depth gauge to get the correct depth. I must be slow, and I even read something about setting the depth to zero, but there are steps that are left out or things assumed. I need step by step directions... I feel foolish to ask, but I guess I can not find what I need in written form so this is my best shot for now...please help
Thanks

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harrysin

I'm not familiar with your router but the basic set up to plunge the router so that the cutter just touches the material then lock it in this position. Next insert something between the anvil and stop, in this case an inlay but if you wanted to make a cut 1/4" deep use a 1/4" twist drill. Release the lock and when you plunge, it will be exactly what you set it at.

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Harry

The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking.


http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/

burkelyn

I am not sure what is meant by the anvil and the stop. Is the stop the rotating piece near the bottom of the plate? More detail needed please... thanks..stupid me...Peter

cbsjoez1935

Peter,

The "anvil" that Harry mentions is what the depth adjustment rod that slides down to and looks like a turret with maybe two or three screws protruding from them. These screws can be adjusted to the height you desire, but a simpler way is as Harry stated. With the bit in the router, allow it to plunge down so it just touches the workpiece. Then use the plunge lock lever to lock it into that position. Now whatever depth you want that bit to go into the wood is set by inserting a like diameter (drill bit or whatever) between the sliding depth adjustment rod and the turret stop. Lock that in position, with the depth adjustment knob and release the plunge lock lever. You are now ready to plunge your bit into the wood at the exact depth you just set. Look at your manual (if you have one for that router) and see the breakdown of the various parts. Soon it will be clear how to do it. Good luck with routing.

Joe Z.

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JoeZ If you never made a mistake, you never tried anything

burkelyn

Ok, that seems to make some sense, I assume that I can use the square brass rods to help with setting up the depth from the depth adjustment rod to the anvil...I will try that and get back to you on how I am making out. No I do not have a manual, and I tried looking for one, but had only minor success as my purchase was on Ebay and I received it without a manual. Thanks again.. Peter Blake aka Burkelyn

bobj3

HI burkelyn

Here's a picture of your router, it may help..you don't need the sq.brass bars with your setup,the stop will turn and it's set for 1/4" steps..so to say the 1st.step is 1/4" deep the 2nd step is 1/2" deep and so on..

Manual for the PC 690 below
http://www.routerforums.com/porter-c...90-manual.html
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harrysin

As a matter of interest, the photo in my post shows my Makita 3612C and in case no one recognises the 6 step anvil, that's because I made it, the original 3 stage one is, in my opinion the ONLY minus point on this otherwise perfect router. This replacement one gives a 25mm cut in six easy steps.
The photograph shows the progression, from left to right, the original one, Mk1, Mk2 and finally the Mk3 one that has had extensive use for at least 7 years.

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Harry

The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking.


http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/

burkelyn

Thanks everyone, I think with your help I am now on the right track. I appreciate all your efforts on my behalf...Thanks again..
Peter

WoodBrewer

+1 Harrys desc is correct.