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Rate This Thread - I want Ricks push stick!!.

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Old 03-16-2008, 11:20 PM   #11
CASparky
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They Posted!, and I'd say that's what it is all about.........

Cheers!
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Old 05-08-2008, 10:38 AM   #12
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What I need to know is how to make the shoes?

I'm not the sharpest pencil in the box and I can't make hide nor hair of the plans I got with the Push Stick Handle.
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Old 05-08-2008, 12:39 PM   #13
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Hi Bob

Pop in your 1/2' DOVETAIL bit in the router table, set the bit height to 3/8" above the router table top then move the fence over so the bit is in the center of the stock you are going to use for the shoe, lock the fence in place then get your push block and push the stock over the bit keeping it to the fence and holding it down to the table top...

Cut you stock just a bit longer than you need just in case you get rip out on the end of the pass...if so just trim off the end for a nice clean dovetail socket..

Then test fit the pin in the socket, it should just slide in free without the need for a hammer...you may need to adjust the bit up or down to get it to fit just right once you have it set right , make some backups they do get nailed now and then..


=========

Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerbob
What I need to know is how to make the shoes?

I'm not the sharpest pencil in the box and I can't make hide nor hair of the plans I got with the Push Stick Handle.

Last edited by bobj3; 05-08-2008 at 12:42 PM.
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Old 05-08-2008, 04:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
Hi Bob

Pop in your 1/2' DOVETAIL bit in the router table, set the bit height to 3/8" above the router table top then move the fence over so the bit is in the center of the stock you are going to use for the shoe, lock the fence in place then get your push block and push the stock over the bit keeping it to the fence and holding it down to the table top...

Cut you stock just a bit longer than you need just in case you get rip out on the end of the pass...if so just trim off the end for a nice clean dovetail socket..

Then test fit the pin in the socket, it should just slide in free without the need for a hammer...you may need to adjust the bit up or down to get it to fit just right once you have it set right , make some backups they do get nailed now and then..


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Thanks for the post. The plans that came with the nylon saw handle talks about a side support. How is that safely made ?
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Old 05-08-2008, 04:25 PM   #15
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Bob, from Northwest Florida,

Take the advice, which BobJ gave you, and do the same on the other side (top or bottom) of the push block piece. I would not make the dovetail slot go all the way through on either side. That way the handle has a stop point and the side support, you mentioned, has the same. In addition, cut a tight dovetail slot across the back of the block and that will be your "bottom pusher", while the long piece down the middle, or so, will be your side support. Hope this helps.

Joe Z.
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Old 05-08-2008, 05:06 PM   #16
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Hi Bob

Joe is right but I should have said once you have the slot just right make a dovetail key to slide in the slot and then glue it in place for a spot point for the handle,,,many have a hard time backing up the shoe with the bit spining and it takes time to do it just right without making the dovetail slot bigger than it should be...I would also suggest using a 1/4" or 5/16" strait bit 1st to remove some of the stock from the dovetail slot, it makes it easyer for the dovetail bit to work...and a place for the chips inside the dovetail slot.

When moving the dovetail bit back up, it's likes to jam and pull away from the fence and once it jams it's a real trick to get it out of the slot, not to say anything about it's a good way to cook a good dovetail bit..


May I also suggest you make a shoe like the one below, you will be surprise how well this type of push stick/block works for many router jobs with some double sided carpet tape on the front side of the push block it will hold the stock in place and will take the place of many coping sleds.


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Attached Thumbnails
i-want-ricks-push-stick-8181.jpg  i-want-ricks-push-stick-8184.jpg  

Last edited by bobj3; 05-08-2008 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 05-08-2008, 07:12 PM   #17
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Awwww, the wonderful thing about push sticks.... one can make them any size, shape or form in which suits the operator.

Bob, last time I snuck a peek into your shop, I didn't see such a push stick.... so, where ya been hiding it?! LOL
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Old 05-08-2008, 07:30 PM   #18
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Hi Ken

hahahahaha I have so many push sticks I have lost count

It's one of the things I make all the time trying to find one that works for all router jobs I have one of the new yellow ones but I'm not to impress with it.

Home/Shop made ones work the best for me..

=============

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Originally Posted by Hamlin
Awwww, the wonderful thing about push sticks.... one can make them any size, shape or form in which suits the operator.

Bob, last time I snuck a peek into your shop, I didn't see such a push stick.... so, where ya been hiding it?! LOL
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:24 AM   #19
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Thanks to all you guys. I think I have the concept down now.
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:12 PM   #20
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Hi BJ,

Being a little bit on the lazy side at the moment... I have 3 OP's handles. I've made a few different "push blocks" for them. Fortunetly, they work for me, and are comfortable to use.

When I made my version of your push block, I copied the shape and form from OP's handle. Granted, it's only 3/8" thick but, again it works, sometimes I do wish they were thicker more like 3/4" but, that's why we make them.
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