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Removing springs from a Bosch 1617EVSPK

This is a discussion on Removing springs from a Bosch 1617EVSPK within the General Routing forums, part of the Routers category; I found some posts about removing springs, but couldn't find anything about removing springs specifically ...



   
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Old 05-07-2009, 01:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Removing springs from a Bosch 1617EVSPK
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I found some posts about removing springs, but couldn't find anything about removing springs specifically from my Bosch. I am making a table now and the top is finished and temporarily mounted to help build the cabinet. After only making a few cuts, I realize that I HAVE to remove the springs to keep my sanity and keep from using more scrap in test cuts than my project, HELP!!
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Old 05-07-2009, 01:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hi Jeff

Here's one, they don't list the Bosch but most are just about the same on many routers, it may help

Router Workshop: Spring Removal

With luck Mike will see your Post, I think he as remove his spring from his Bosch..for his OP table setup..you can always PM him or send a email and get some help from him..
Router Forums - View Profile: Mike

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sher622 View Post
I found some posts about removing springs, but couldn't find anything about removing springs specifically from my Bosch. I am making a table now and the top is finished and temporarily mounted to help build the cabinet. After only making a few cuts, I realize that I HAVE to remove the springs to keep my sanity and keep from using more scrap in test cuts than my project, HELP!!
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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forgive me if im off base, but doesnt the 1617 evspk come with a fixed base that could be mounted to the table and leave the plunge for freehand work? im just asking?
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Old 05-07-2009, 05:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I thought the same thing Levon, why not use the fixed base for the table, just a thought!!
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Old 05-07-2009, 11:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Levon, yes it does have a fixed base. And I have a knob for the micro adjust, but I was thinking it would be tougher on bit changes and times that require moving the height more than a half an inch or so. I was really using the plunge base as a temporary solution anyway. I just built the top and have it temporarily mounted while I build the cabinet. I was planning on making or buying a lift. I think I came up with a good design to build a lift that can be raised with a screw for micro adjustments and also a quick release for bit changes. I'll post some pics if I get it working.
I digress... I suppose I'll try the fixed base and see how I like it. I've been making some rail and stile panels and the adjustments are really difficult to get perfect, even using the micro adjust on the plunge base.
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Old 05-08-2009, 03:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Jeff, mounting the fixed base is the way to go. Remove the wooden knobs and you get more room and easier adjustments. The 1617 has 3 rough adjustments to get you close then the adjuster takes over. You will find you do not need a lift. It is easier to pop the mounting plate out of the table, change your bit, make the height adjustment and drop it back into place. I guarantee this is faster than any lift on the market. (And you get to spend all that money you save on bits!)
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Old 05-17-2009, 04:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Final setup
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Thanks to all for recommending the fixed base and insisting it is the best way to go. My biggest hangup was that I couldn't do fine adjustments from above the table. I really didn't want to have to move the fence, only to have to reset it. Well, here's what I finally ended up with.
The materials I bought were:
3/16 hex drive threaded screw (didn't really care what the length or size/threads are) Actually I bought a short one to keep the possibility of the screw getting knocked off.
3/16 hex wrench
total cost was about $3
Photo 1 and 2: So I used a 5/16 drill bit and drilled out the hole that happened to already be started in the base directly above(with the base upside down) the fine adjustment screw.
Photo 3: I used a bit of J.B. Weld to attach the threaded screw to the bottom side of the fine adjustment screw with the Hex opening toward the base. I got it centered as good as I could, but lets realize that it really isn't imperative that this be exactly centered to the thousanth of an inch.
After drying overnight, I drilled the new holes in the base to mount the fixed base. Then using the same 5/16" bit, I drilled a hole to match the one in the base for the wrench to fit through. You can barely see the hole in the top in photo 4.
Photo 5: Now, to use it, I still have to get under the table, which I can do from the front to unlock the cam-lock, then each turn of the wrench is 1/16" from above the table. When the adjustment is done, lock the base and I'm off.
I forgot to mention, I did take off the wooden knobs.
I'm still finishing the cabinet to the router table, so I'll post those photos later.
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Last edited by sher622; 05-17-2009 at 10:19 PM. Reason: added pictures
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Old 05-17-2009, 09:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Mike... Do you use the OP set up as Bob thought? But your using a fixed base and not a plunge attahed to the insert, right? If you were using the plunge, then I assume you would remove the springs?

Tom
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Old 05-17-2009, 10:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Nice, creative solution, Jeff. Don't let Bosch in on that, though. They make an above table, adjustable fixed base, the RA1165.
Actually, all new 1617EVS PK kits come with the above table adjustable base. I use this same base in my table and it works out well. Looking forward to the pics of your finished table.
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Old 05-17-2009, 10:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I saw that on some demo or a show where they adjusted that base through the plate. I bought my router about 3 years ago, and I don't think that base existed at the time.
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