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Square vs. round base.

This is a discussion on Square vs. round base. within the General Routing forums, part of the Routers category; I've been watching old router workshop videos and noticed that the Hitachi router they used ...



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Old 06-18-2009, 01:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Square vs. round base.
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I've been watching old router workshop videos and noticed that the Hitachi router they used is always shown with a square base attached. All my PC routers came with round bases as did my old Rockwell, so that is what I am used to. Is there an advantage to the square base? Situations where one is preferred to the other? Which do you use and why?

Thanks for your thoughts,

rstermer
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Old 06-18-2009, 02:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I love my DW625 (well both of them really!) with round bases with a flat side as well.

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Old 06-18-2009, 02:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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HI rstermer

Square is best pie is round but the base plate on the routers works best if it's square..

8" x 8" works out very well for most jobs,,,I'm not sure why the Mfg.make the round,most don't fit the router base right..

I could list all the advantages but the post would be to long for that
I think it comes down to ,,you can use the sq.base in more ways than the round ones, or to say one item for more than one type of job..


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Old 06-18-2009, 02:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hi restermer: The Router Workshop was sponsored by Oak-Park. The square base used in the show uses the 1 1/2" brass guides that Oak- Park sells as well as some other systems that can be used with the square base. Asquare base is alot easier and more accurate to use when you are using a straight edge to guide the router when making a cut free hand. If a round base is used and for some reason the bit is not perfectly centered through the plate your cut could go off due to turning the router as you make the cut. Some manufacturers make bases that are round except for one side. It too makes the base easier to use. woodnut65
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Old 06-18-2009, 02:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Once you have your router attached to a mounting plate there are few reasons to remove it. There are advantages this way such as having the flat edge to guide with, the ability to install roller bearings or pins in two diagonal corners and use them for centering on a board to cut a mortise or keyhole, don't forget the fact that the larger base makes for more stabile free hand routing. That common sense stuff will get you every time.
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Old 06-18-2009, 03:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If you make a square base, a good idea would be to make each side offset so that you can make a dado or whatever wider. Let's call the top the 12 o'clock position and that is that side that goes up against a straight edge. You could add a little bit to each side so that you can increase the width somewhat easily.

For example:
12 o'clock = 0
3 o'clock = +1/64"
6 o'clock = +1/32"
9 o'clock = +1/16"

or
12 o'clock = 0
3 o'clock = +1/32"
6 o'clock = +1/16"
9 o'clock = +1/8"

or
12 o'clock = 0
3 o'clock = +1/16"
6 o'clock = +1/8"
9 o'clock = +1/4"

I haven't built one an incremental base yet, but I saw it in a book. Attached is an example of what I'm talking about in case my explanation was confusing.
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File Type: jpg Incremental-base.jpg (98.4 KB, 25 views)
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Old 06-18-2009, 05:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hi Noob

Thanks I always like to see new ways of doing it,,

You know me and jigs ,the one below is almost the same but it can be use in both ways , make the slot wider and just a bit thiner
Lets say you want a .688 slot and all you have is 1/4" wide bit or a 3/8" you would make one pass and set the wooden guide to what you want to end up with,make one more or two passes and you have it done. all with one 8" x 8" plate..

Once you have a 8" x 8" plate you have the room to add a small guide out of some hardwood ...a quick and easy way to move the bit over just a little bit with no math needed, I use the brass setup bars most of the time or a drill bit to set up the guide
Plus you can use almost any bit for the job...


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noob View Post
If you make a square base, a good idea would be to make each side offset so that you can make a dado or whatever wider. Let's call the top the 12 o'clock position and that is that side that goes up against a straight edge. You could add a little bit to each side so that you can increase the width somewhat easily.

For example:
12 o'clock = 0
3 o'clock = +1/64"
6 o'clock = +1/32"
9 o'clock = +1/16"

or
12 o'clock = 0
3 o'clock = +1/32"
6 o'clock = +1/16"
9 o'clock = +1/8"

or
12 o'clock = 0
3 o'clock = +1/16"
6 o'clock = +1/8"
9 o'clock = +1/4"

I haven't built one an incremental base yet, but I saw it in a book. Attached is an example of what I'm talking about in case my explanation was confusing.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1152.jpg (33.9 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg 1153.jpg (45.5 KB, 28 views)
__________________
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plus FREE MLCS Project Plans
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Part Finder
find parts for your power tools

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/
Need some help replacing the parts
http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/

Many Router Tips from RWS
http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html
http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/

Router Tables ,Ready to use
http://www.rt1000.com/
http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html

Bob J.

Last edited by bobj3; 06-18-2009 at 09:01 PM.
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