Installing bits in a tight collet

Rowantree

I just joined your forum today and appreciate a place to learn about routing and get experienced advice. I just received a hand-held Ward 1hp router, Model TGB-8542B from a friend. It is in good shape and I am anxious to do some roundovers on several wood projects, 30-years after using routers in high-school woodshop.

I took out the old 1/4" shank bit and bought three new roundover bits, but now I cannot get the shanks into the collet. The old bit came out easy, but now I cannot even get the OLD bit back into the collet. I have loosened the collet nut of course -- even took it off and can see the split or gap in the collet, which tightens around the shank when the nut is tightened. The collet seems to be about .1000 too small; I can force 1/64" of the shank into the collet, lubricated with oil, but is very tight and not a good seat.

My thinking is that my friend may have over-heated the bit and collet while using the router years ago and warped the collet. Any ideas?
Thanks, Allen in San Jose, CA

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Hamlin

Hi,

Welcome to the router forums.

If you can remove the collet. Try to clean it up some and inspect the collet. You may need to just replace this piece. I'm sure others will chime in soon.

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bobj3

Hi Allen

Some times is just best to chuck it and be done with the old router.but if you are in love with it, you can get one more for parts,,the one below is going for 25 bucks..it will be hard to get parts for the old Ward router they are out of business as I'm sure you know..

You don't want to use a tool like the router if the parts are damage in any way...you can get a new router combo kit for a 100 bucks or less from Sears..that's comes with 1/4" and 1/2" collet and two bases..then you will be a happy router user don't forget if you get the bit in place then you will want to take it out in time ,that will be real PITA this time..

MONTGOMERY WARD POWR-KRAFT ROUTER MODEL 8543A - eBay (item 110407852557 end time Jul-26-09 19:31:14 PDT)

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Bob J.

dutchman 46

Bobj3 just gave you the best information you will ever get. If you would like to revive the Wards, do it and save it for occasional use only. You will be so much happier with the new one, and the Wards will be safe to enjoy on those rare occasions, just my opinion. Welcome, Allen, and enjoy the forum.

PS: Please add to your profile where you are from, It allows others near you to talk with you, and the forum to help you better!

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curiousgeorge

Allen, welcome to the forums. You have received some good advise, but I must point out one safety item. Never!!! and I mean Never oil the shank of a router bit. The function of the collet is to hold the shank and prevent it from moving. How do you expect it to do that with oil on it? Just realize that the bit is turning at around 20,000 rpm and I wouldn't want to be anywhere near it if it comes out of the collet.

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Lemuzz

Are you sure it's a 1/4 shank and not a 6mm shank? It might be a good idea to measure accurately the one you know that fits the collet. And also check for any burrs in the collet

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Rowantree

Hey guys, thanks for all the suggestions on the stubborn collet. I inspected the collet under a strong light and sure’nuf there was a little rust in there to hang up the shank. I cleaned and dried it with paint thinner on Q-tips and the shaft slipped in real snug, I tightened the nut and it aint coming out! I noticed that the collet has hundreds of tiny groves inside to grab the shank. Yes, I cleaned all the oil off the shank too.

Another Question: According to the diagram in my manual, there is an “L” shaped locking key that fits into a “slot for the locking key” that goes under the Depth Adjustment Nut. This locking key is missing on my router. The instructions for “Setting The Depth of Cut” do not mention the locking key -- when I tighten the hand grip the depth adjustment nut is locked up tight.
Do I need this locking key to operate the router?

If I need a locking key, then I will look at a new router as all’yall suggested, but I enjoy restoring tools, equipment and furniture and don’t give up easy. I’ve kept and fully restored my dad’s 1941 Chevrolet Towne Sedan since high-school days. Allen

Mike

Allen, the Q tips may of removed some of the rust but they did not get it all. Buy a cleaning brush for a 22 caliber rifle and use it with WD-40 until all the rust is gone. Now you need a heat gun to cook off the rest of the WD-40. Remove any residue with swabs or dry rifle cleaning patches. This method will help prevent rust but it is critical to remove all the WD-40 residue.

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Rowantree

You guys are thorough! I went back and cleaned my collet with one of my dad's rifle cleaning brushes and a dry swab. Even baked off the WD-40. I feel a bit safer knowing it is clean and tight and appreciate doing it right. Allen