reible

I was thinking that since a lot of people are new to routing maybe some of us WOG's (wise old goats) could write about some technique or skill we think we have. Then others can tell how they do the same thing or ask questions on the subject. Maybe even point out something we are doing "wrong" in a kind way.

If we get to messed up we can always call the "router experts" to help us out.

I will follow this post with an example.

ed

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reible

A standard router has what is called a sub-base that attaches with screws to the base plate of the router. (You might have heard it called the bottom of the router.) This sub-base is often removed to mount the router to a table or to attach a specialized sub-base.

One of the functions of the sub-base is to hold template guides. For the purpose of this example I will discuss what is often called the PC standard 1 3/8” hole system.

When using template guides the bit of the router must be centered in the open of the guide. Visual inspection may reveal that this is not the case. Even if it “looks” right it maybe off slightly.

Even from the factory these sub-bases do not always align with the bit. Differences in manufacturing, brands and other factors cause these situations.

Aligning the sub-base to the router is something that can be done more accurately using a few simple techniques and readily available aids.

You will need a ¼” shaft to fit in the router with a ¼”collet. This shaft should be drillstock or other material that measures exactly ¼” inch. Kits for “build it yourself” sub-base usually come with one. They also contain a disk that fits in the template hole on the sub-base and has a ¼” hole centered in it. You could make this disk but make sure the hole is centered it fits snugly in the sub-base hole. (Some template sets contain a template and shaft for this purpose.)

Loosen the screws holding the sub-base to the router then insert the ¼” shaft into the router collet and tighten. Slide the disk down the shaft and into the template hole. Now tighten the sub-base screw a little at a time until they are tight.

Unless things are “way out of bounds” the sub-base is now aligned. Remove the shaft and disk and you are finished.

Anytime the sub-base is removed it needs to be re-aligned when it is reinstalled

Stay tuned for “truing the sub-base”.

Glenmore

Well I use my router table for a jointer and found out that small 1/4 straight bit isn't the one to use because left to my chaff and went to a 1/2 straight bit that I get a much better job. Can't afford the spiral bit though.

NewMontanaWorkshop

Great idea. I'm learning already.

kp91

When doing router work in and out of the table, especially when the work involves inside and outside cuts, it is easy to want to feed the work the wrong way into the bit. A mark on the baseplate to show bit rotation direction, or pencil marks on the workpiece are easy ways to make sure you don't feed backwards.

__________________
Doug
1 John 1:9

Learning Herb

This is a great idea, Ilove to learn ,And I know that there are planty of good,quick,and safe techniques out there just wating to be picked up by woodworkers like me hho love to learn. Keep all the ideas coming..Thank you much
learning Herb

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I try to learn some thing new each and every day ,
Learning Herb

reible

This is the second part of a series of two so if you have not read “Amateur techniques to align sub-base” please do so before continuing.

You will want to do this if you ever use the sub-base against an edge as a guide.

In the last posting we aligned the bit using the template guide to the sub-base. Now that they are concentric we will attempt to make the outside of the sub-base also concentric to the bit.

Using the same set-up as before, when we did the first alignment procedure, a ¼” shank mounted in the router, and the disk in the template guide.

Select a piece of scrap wood maybe a 1” X” 4 X 12”or similar. Draw a line down the center of the piece full 12” in this example. Measure the Diameter of your sub-base, for example it might be 6” across. Now measure half the diameter + 1 inch down from one end of the scrap wood piece (in our example this would be 4”).

Mark that location on the centered line then drill a ¼” hole through the wood at this location. This hole must be ¼” and as vertical as you can get it.

Take the router and put the shaft into the hole. You want the routers sub-base sitting against the scarp wood, if need be adjust things so they are sitting flat. Now take a sharp pencil and hold it near the sub-base where the wood extends about 1” past the sub-base. This location should be on the centered line. Very slowly rotate the router about the shaft and watch for the location where the sub-base is nearest the pencil. When you have found that spot use the pencil against the sub-base and make a mark across the centered line.

Using the same method locate the spot on the sub-base where it is at the greatest distance from the mark you made. Mark this location.

Lift the router off the scrap wood and carefully cut the wood a so the line closes to the hole is gone (1/32” is good). This cut is perpendicular to the centered line you made and the resulting wood will be about 11” long in this example.

Put the router shaft back in the hole. The sub-base will now extend beyond the edge of the wood where the cut was made. Slowly rotate the router to make sure the sub-base extend over the wood all the way around.

Now depending on the material of your sub-base you can sand, file or scrape the edge of the sub-base using the fresh cut end of the wood as a guide. Remove material of the sub-base by slowly turning the router until the edge of the sub-base and the wood match.

The sub-base should now be concentric with the router bit.

Jigboy

As a newcomer, I think that is a great idea. Very generous of you WOG's to take the time to help us learn safely and correctly.

reible

If you have been reading posts here you will have heard a lot about this subject. A lot of you maybe thinking about trying a project but they all look to hard. And then there is that trying to figure out what bit and what template guide to use…….. “Now I made the pattern a ¼” larger so I’ll pick out the…… Oh to heck with it let’s see what on TV”.



The following might help with some of those decisions. In attachment 1 you see a cut away sub-base with labels. Those labels are important; they will help you with the table that is attachment 2.



This table is for the set of template guides we can call “oak-park”. (If you have a set that might be called “PC” let me know and I'll post a table I personal use.) The first column has the OD or outside diameter of the template guide. The second column is the maximum bit size for that guide. Looking at the rows under “BITS” for the size of bit. Below that is “C” or the distance between where the template guide meets the template and the router cut.



Let’s try one:



The ½” guide and ¼” bit. Locate the guide size then go across until you are under the ¼” bit. That box contains 1/8”, see attachment 3.



The 1” guide and ¼” bit. This time the box contains 3/8” see attachment 4



One more time, 1” guide and ½” bit. The box says ¼” see attachment 5



(If anyone spot an error in the table please mail me right away so I can fix it.)

Hope this helps,



Ed

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Rayinthe UK

I did a page a little while ago where I put together some tips intended for beginners - http://www.raygirling.com/routtips.htm - hope it's not too basic and the emphasis is on safety.

Ray