DougW

I'm well into a project that needs 2 countersink holes (flat bottom) drilled into 2X6 boards in precise locations. The holes need to be 2 5/16 in diameter and 9/16 in deep. I don't believe I will EVER need to drill any more 2 5/16 holes in my life, so I am rebelling against buying a $16.50 drill bit.

The router should do fine, but how do I make a round template of a specific size to use? I've got an idea or two using my lathe, but would enjoy any suggestions you may have.

thanks in advance. ...Dougw

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Hi DougW,
You didn't say what you are building so I don't know if any of these ideas are possible.

1. You could cut tenons on the member to match the largest bit you have.

2.If the above isn't possible, you could make a template and use your router with a guide bushing and a spiral bit and route it out. If you need help calculating what size bushing and bit to use Reible posted a calculation chart some time ago. http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/163-routerforums-amateur-night.html

Let us know how you made out.

Chuck

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DougW

Thanks for the ideas, and sorry for not mentioning what I was doing.

I'm building my dream workbench and the vise I'm installing has metal guides for the rails that are inset into the wooden jaw face. They need a 2 5/16 hole about 9/16 inches deep. Today I'm leaning toward buying a 2 3/8 sawtooth bit that will work for clocks I can buy. At least it is an investment toward future projects.

So I don't err twice in a row, the bench is constructed of spruce. The top is about 2 1/2 inches thick and 28 X 48 in size. Legs are about 2 1/2 by 4 1/2 rectangular. There is a planing dog inset into the top. I've just completed the leg vise on the front (using a Lee Valley end vise screw) and am installing a Lee Valley large vise on the end. I've got a bench dog and some bench pups to complete the current design and adding some flexibility. As planned I should be able to clamp up to 30 X 48 flat on the top with no problems and just about anything vertically on the front. One final addition will be a deadman support that slides across to complement the leg vise.

The design draws heavily from an 18th century plan I found in a magazine recently. The mag isn't with me or I'd quote the issue.

...Doug

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Hi Doug,
I just installed a new shoulder vice about 3 weeks ago on my bench. It has 2 guide bars with guide bushings that are inset into the shoulder of the bench. The guide bushings are about 2 3/8" dia. , but have a flat on one side. With that flat, I couldn't drill it out with a forstner bit. I free hand routed the rebate to depth as close as I could get to the layout line, and then finished it off with a carving gouge of approximately the same sweep.
If you don't want to but the bit, you might try the free hand routing, or routing around a button template with the right size guide bushing to give you the required diameter rebate, then chiseling out the center.
I hope you have a better experience with your vise than I did mine. I bought the economy model from Woodcraft. It turned out to be a Chineese made copy of a real vise. What a piece of junk. I had to rework all the holes and the screw just to get it installed. That's what I get for trying to save a little money.
Good luck........Chuck

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DougW

Hi Chuck.
Sorry to hear about your vise. I'm very happy with the Veritas models, especially now the bench is complete. The front vise (on the end of the bench of course <grin>) is a bit stiff, but then I never liked a sloppy vise and it will work in over time. The tail vise mechanism is now a leg vise and capable of holding something about 9 or 10 inches thick easily.

As for the holes... I cheated. I found the standard inset clocks take a 2 3/8 bit which is acceptably close to the 2 5/16 size for the guides. I found the round hole and the flat side of the guide gave just enough adjustment to allow centering the guides and adjusting the support they give... probably why my vise is a bit snug.

Today the bench got two coats of Danish oil finish. Tomorrow if I get a minute the top gets some paste wax... and I'm done! Now just to convince the wife to pose in a bikini for pictures they way they do for custom hot rods...

Doug

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Glad to hear you got-er-dun. Now, don't forget to check the top for flatness. If you don't already have them, that will give you an excuse to make a pair of winding sticks. That could be your first project.
Enjoy it.......Chuck

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jerrymayfield

You are aware that "Danish Oil" is a mixture of linseed oil,varnish and thinner. The reason I mention this is any bench I have ever seen with even a very thin film finish starts to flake off almost at once. The people who originally built your style of bench would have used linseed oil or no finish at all.

Regards
Jerry

DougW

I agree with what you say. I opted for a single application of Danish oil based on recommendation in Woodworking Magazine (Rethinking Workbench Designs, Autumn 2005). They tested several mixtures and tested them for use, glue adheason and stain absorption. Danish oil/wax combination was second place in their tests and first in convenience.

While I would really like to devote the bench only to construction I have to use available space for assembly and finish as well. If I could afford the former I'd have left the wood unfinished.

...Doug

jerrymayfield

The finish i have used on all the benches I have built (5) is white parafin mixed with turpentine (not paint thinner) and BLO.

Regards
Jerry