Gilbear

I guess you could say it's a variation of a mortise and tennon joint - see attached image - the door I was referring to also had 2 pegs that were driven all the way through at each corner - I liked the look and it was a strong joint - however, I've never made an exterior door myself.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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Woodnut65

Hi: You could use treated lumber for the door sash. The bits for the stile and rail start
at 1 3/8ths" because that is the standard for exterior doors. Making it some other size
may make the job tougher, since lock sets and other hardware are basically made for the 1 3/8ths thickness. The door could also be mortise and tenon joinery. The screen you want to save could be set into the door with a rabit. Good luck.. Woodnut65

bobj3

wanart

The jig below will do just about all you need to make the door.
▼
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2641-mortise-tenon-jig-plunge-router.html

But if you don't cut/mill down the door you will need to make a new door frame as well .
If the door was 7/8" thick you should stick with that size if you don't want to start from sq.1 with a new door frame.(hardware etc.)

You don't need a planer if you have a table saw and a sander.
Most of the Trex stock is about 5" wide,if you use it for all of the door parts it should be ok that's to say don't use the standard door size of 2 3/4" to 3 1/8" wide.
It's true that Trex will bend but a short stock should be ok .

Good Luck
Bj

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wanart

I have another idea for consideration. Lowe's is now marketing Arauco AC sanded plywood. It is 23/32" thick with 7 plys, exterior glue, and the face side is nicely finished. If I fill in the knot holes in the back side and glue a fibreglass wall liner to the back side (which would become the outside of the door), the resulting thickness is the same as the Larson door I'm replacing. That would allow me to reuse more than just the window/screen unit. I could use the door edging as well.

What would be the best glue to use to bond the fibreglass liner to the plywood? Liquid Nail has been suggested but I don't have much faith in it.

Would edge banding the plywood with strips of Trex be a good idea to make it more weather resistant?

Will this exterior grade plywood stay flat or is this just a bad idea to begin with?

Art

bobj3

wanart

"just a bad idea to begin with"=yes
It will always look like a plywood door but if that's what you want it to look like go for it.

Plywood will not stand up to outside weather unless it's under cover.

How about some hardwood that you can stress after you make it.
Or about some Oak siding that's ruff to start with.
Or
Stress it with a power steel brush,this will pull the grain out and make it ruff.

Many ways to stress wood to get the look you want ,burn it torch, power belt sand it, power wash it, sand blast it, take a chain to it beat the hell out of it, etc.

Have a good one
Bj

__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

Mike

I think it is time to stop trying to re-engineer the wheel. If you buy whichever hardwood is cheapest in your location and seal it with a good spar varnish it should last many years. If you want overkill then use epoxy paint. Either way will work fine.

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