del schisler

i bought this one because i didn't want to build the top i wanted to get started it is not that i couldn't do it i got both plate's also and both finces and the brass bars they come in handy than i built the base of my own design here is the link http://www.oak-park.com/usa12.html

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del schisler

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Mike

I am sure you will be happy with your decision Del.

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Mike

Bruce, Some points to ponder: You are correct when saying a mounting plate and table should be flat for best results. We all know that in the real world mounting plates and tables can warp or sag, and wood can do unimagineable things. The Rousseau plate has a few thousandths of crown for exactly this reason. Minor irregularities in the wood or table do not effect the relationship of bit to wood because of this slight crown. The wood always passes the bit at the same height. The only possible variance would be a fraction of a degree of angle, and effectively not noticeable. Think about this. A picture is worth a thousand words so you can view the Rousseau plate here: http://www.rousseauco.com/
You also mentioned being unfamiliar with the Shopnotes fence design. There are several good router table and fence designs available from Shopnotes.com and here is the one I built: http://routerforums.com/showpost.php...4&postcount=12
The Router Workshop table top measures 16 x 30 so it provides good support for larger workpieces. I know it looks smaller on the show.
There are different ways to perform any routing task, and everybody has their personal favorite. The key is to use whatever works best for you.

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bennybbc

Hi Mike. I agree that tables and plates *can* sag but the idea is to build
or buy one that won't sag. I built my table and in a few years it is still
flat. I did build it with a grid of angle iron underneath it with screws so
that if there is any variation from flat I can either raise up an individual
area or pull it down without really effecting the rest of the table. It
sounds more complicated than it is but so far I haven't had to adjust it.
Basically the angle iron is in a tic-tac-toe pattern, sort of...As I mentioned
before, I use the Woodhaven phenolic plate and even with my heavy Freud
FT2000 router mounted in it 99% of the time I can measure no sagging
so far. If that happens there's no fixing it. But if I wanted the plate to
be higher than the table I can easily turn the thumbscrews and raise it
up any amount. The problem I have with a pre-crowned plate is that
it assumes that either the plate or the table will sag. And if the table
does sag will it just sag as much as the plate is crowned? And what
keeps the plate from sagging? I suppose if you have a table that sags
the crowned plate *might* make up for it but that's nothing that couldn't
also be accomplished by just adjusting a flat plate up a little too. I
just don't have any desire to introduce any possible source of error to
my work unless it's caused by my own brain. Plenty of those errors to
go around already. As you say, the amount of crown may only
introduce a little change in the angle of the cut but those few thousandths
of an inch would compound themselves on a longer workpiece. If I
was cutting a long rabbet or dado or using a slot cutter to cut a groove
that change of angle on a longer workpiece might make the difference
between a tight fit, flush fit, or the cut not being consistant. Admittedly,
this is just my speculation since I haven't used it but I don't see how it
wouldn't happen. When I first set up my router table and used it for a
while I noticed just that problem with a rabbet I cut. The depth was
proper in the middle section but both the beginning and the end of the
rabbet was a little shallow. I first thought that the wood was bowed
but I then noticed that the plate was a little high above the table.
I found that some saw chips had made it's way under the plate between
the plate supports and the plate and lifted the plate up slightly. I
blew the chips out and leveled the plate again. I ran the piece back
through and the rabbet depth was now perfect along the whole length.
The problem was cause because the longer piece ramped up to the
bit in the beginning of the cut and wasn't quite down flat against the
plate immediately around the bit and the same as the workpiece left
that plate. It wasn't a huge amount but it was enough to be noticeable.
I now make sure to not let saw dust fall into the router plate hole when
I remove the plate.

Your fence looks familiar. I must've seen it somewhere before. Is
wood movement because of atmospheric changes ever a problem with
a wooden fence? It sure looks great. My thick angle iron fence is
faced with a split MDF subfence. It has more of an industrial look
than a craftsman woodworker look but it sure is heavy and solid as
a rock. If I couldn't have a machinst true the angle iron I used for
it I wouldn't have used it. I've never found any steel angle that
was dead square. Even the aluminum angle I looked at wasn't quite
square. The advantage of using hardwood is that you can machine
it yourself provided you have a jointer. I do now but didn't when I
built my fence.

My table measures 27" x 34" and is between the rails of my TS.
The plate is centered length wise and offset towards the front
of the table width wise. I usually use it so that the outfeed side
is going towards the TS. I've never had a workpiece too long to
be properly supported yet. The fence is attached by sliding in
T-slots I purchased from Woodpeckers that are in a tic-tac-toe
pattern. I can position the fence in any direction this way whether
I need to save a specific TS setup or need to use the table with
the router plate farther away from the "front" of the table, (where
I'm standing). Very versatile for me and the support system was
a real pain in the butt to build. Overkill? Probably but it's as
perfect now as it was the day I built it and there's always room
for my work. It's amazing how much can be done with just a
piece of plywood with a router mounted to it and a couple of
saw horses though or anything in between the two extremes.
Whatever works, right? Take care and happy routing!

Bruce

ironhat

Are the Shopnote fence plans readily available online? For a fee?

TIA,
Chiz

Mike

Oops! I goofed on something. The fence plan is from Woodsmith, included with the table and cabinet plans. Yes, most Woodsmith and Shopnotes plans are available online for under $10. Some are a bit higher but all are worth the price. Easy to understand, clearly illustrated with tips on building jigs to make the job easier.

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joeirish15

I recently made my own table out of a formica table top we had around not being used. Cut the hole 12" sq. and routed the edge around it another 1/2" x 1/4" deep. I am going to use acrylic panels for the plate but want to use phenolic if and when I can find where to purchase some. I have a Shopsmith 510 and have made several pieces of furniture with it over the years. Am getting into the Router Workshop now and am seeking an answer to where I can find and purchase some phenolic panels to I may cut some jigs and patterns like Rick and Bob use in their show/shop on the woodworking channel program.

deck99

Spacemanspiff,
What kind of wax did you use on your router top?

Can you use wax on mdf? Or what's another good sealer for mdf if I don't want to use laminate?

Thanks,

deck

Mike

Deck, just about all the wood/MDF tables and plans you will find use Formica for the work surface. It is naturaly slick enough and there is no worry of wax contaminating your project and causing finish problems. Maintenance is limited to a quick spray and wipe with Windex. Laminate also seals your table against moisture and helps prevent table movement. This stuff is very easy to work with.

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