WOODMOULDER

Blowing Hitachi MV12 Speed controllers, HELP
I've had two speed controllers go out and need help.
Running 3-1/2" Raised Panel Bits at slow speed seems to do it.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Ron

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FineHomesCarpentry

I'm having the same problem, but with the Bosch 1300ACE.
It seems that the electronics can't cope with the additional power req'd to maintain the constant lower speed. I have replaced two modules in the bosch, within the last year. I won't be buying another Bosch.

catfish95

Ron, I have just started using the Raised panel bits, 3 1\2", at the lowest speed on my MV12. Are you still having the problem? I haven't had any problems with mine yet. I sure hope I don't have this to look forward to.
I was at a wood show last year and saw that Mark Sommerfeld of CMT was using this router in his table. I talked at length with him about it and he said he uses it all the time and has had no problems.
Sure hope you got your problems worked out. Catfish95 (Tom)

viper1

If you mean an external speed controller it will have to have a high wattage resistance. I can't remember the term for it but that router has a device for maintaining a steady speed with out a surge. I believ that may be the trouble with the exteral controlers. Maybe someone here has come up with somethig better. I do believe that I read somewhere that it wouldn't work with such a controller.

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cfm

ok

Mike

Ron, Are you plugged directly into an outlet or using an extension cord? I use a 10 gauge extension cord for tools drawing in the 15 amp range. Yes, this is more than required and I have never had any problems. Is there anything else on the same circuit? Speed controlers are funny animals at times. They tend to be sensitive to surges in power. If you have an air compressor running on the same circuit and it kicks on there is a good chance you will fry the control, even if the load is within ratings for the wiring and breaker. Every outlet in my shop has the connectors broken on the back, each place a plug can go is on a different circuit. Some people would tell you this is overkill. I would tell you that each motor should be on it's own dedicated circuit, no matter how small. Wire is cheap compared to the cost of replacing a tool. Does anybody else use this method or is it just me?

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Woodnut65

Hi: If your router is rateed at 15 amps, it should be running on a 20 amp circuit,
which is standard for power outlets. those circuits call fo number 12 ga wire.
I would check to see what else is on the circuit if your using a 20 amp curcuit.
Any other motor comming on while your using the router will cause to line voltage to drop, and the current to rise. That's because motors draw more current at start up.

Hope it helps.. Woodnut65

Jigboy

Ron, are you blowing external speed controllers? The MV12 is the latest model with great electonic speed control. If it draws more current than your line can supply, it could drop the voltage and then things do get smokey. Motors take a while to burn out, electonic controls go in a snap.

Woody55

I also have a 2 year old M12V with a blown electronic speed control.
It looks like the cheapest replacement price I can find for the controller is $90. I can buy a whole new router on Amazon for $159. I'm trying to decide what to do.
It sounds like a 20 amp dedicated line may help prevent this in the future.
I also saw a user on another forum who by-passed the broken speed controller and just ran the router full speed. I could do this and use an externally speed controller, whatcha think?

Mike

Woody, that would get you up and running for far less than $90. Glad to hear you are using common sense for an easy fix to your problem.

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Mike