How Does One Make Face Bevel Cut In Drawer Face For Standup Desk? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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How Does One Make Face Bevel Cut In Drawer Face For Standup Desk?

Hi All,

I've now completed one project -- and I'm onto the next. I intend to build a so-called stand-up desk (see, Woodworkers : Standing Desk, plans from Lowes).

This project -- like the last one -- is for a friend. I cut them this deal: I'll build you this project, for materials plus $100. I get to learn, I make a slight few dollars, I have some fun, and it allows me to (potentially) talk my wife into letting me buy some more tools. (She actually asked tonight when I will start to build her some furniture -- so, the trap has been set!).

In any event, the plans call for the two drawers at the front of the desk to have a slight angled bevel at the face (something like 15 degrees). I have a (rigid) miter saw, and a (dewalt) table saw. My table saw pivots, I think, to about 45 degrees.

I think if I can rip a board and get a bevel cut out of my table saw. I suspect it might be best to rip the two long angles -- and then -- cut them up into the shorter pieces for the drawer frames. AFter the top and bottom of the drawers have their beveled cuts, I think I'd need to push the drawer front through the table saw vertically. I say that, because if I were to push them through flat, I would cut like an 80 degree angle, instead of a 10 degree angle (in other words, my table saw won't pivot enough).

Then again, I suppose, I could also cut the small short end of the table drawer on my miter saw.

Is there a more idiot proof way of doing this? And, any way to use the router to ensure I have exact face frames between the two drawers?

Thanks in advance!

--Craig.

ps - for extra credit: Anyone want to suggest what kind of wood this novice should use in making this project?

pps = here's the "precise" instructions on how to build the face part of the drawers.

4. Construct the drawers.

a. Using glue and nails, assemble two drawer boxes with the (14) drawer sides, (15) drawer ends and (16) drawer bottoms as shown in Figure 4, cutting grooves in the sides and ends to fit the (16) drawer bottoms.

b. Attach the other half of the drawer slides to the drawer boxes following the manufacturer’s directions.

c. To create raised panels on the (17) drawer faces, cut 15-degree bevels 3/8 inch from the edges.

d. Attach the (17) drawer faces to the drawer boxes with glue and nails.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-27-2012, 03:33 AM
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I have seen plans for jigs to cut this bevel on a table saw. They are based on a high fence with a wedge to set the angle.

This you tube video shows a rather elaborate version of such a jig in use.

Here is a link to a pdf with plans for several jigs, including one the they called a "Raised Panel Jig.

Doing a search on google for "raised panel table saw jig" will lead you to lots of alternative plans.

Good luck on your project.

wbh1963 is flowing with the grain in Arlington, Washington, USA

A day without curls is like a day without sunshine!
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-27-2012, 06:46 AM
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I wouldn't get too hung up on 15 degrees. In any event don't try to make the bevel with the wood flat on the table (if that is what you were thinking) use your fence and place the wood up right. Cutting it long then cutting it in half is a good idea as long as the board isn't too long to handle. You could also get a raised panel bit from some place like MLCS but that would be an expensive overkill. As far as the wood goes poplar is cheap and finishes nicely. If it is going to be painted then pine would also work. Maple would be the best but it also costs more.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-27-2012, 07:12 AM
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Use your table saw rather than the miter saw. Set up the blade at your 15 degree angle and then run your boards standing upright against the fence. Do not run the boards through before cutting to length. I know it seems like the easier thing but that is a mistake. Cut the drawer fronts to size and then cut the "end grain" edges first. There is always the chance of come tear out when cutting end grain. If this happens, it will be cleaned up when you make the next cuts on the long sides. This is really a simple process once you get the hang of it.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-27-2012, 08:24 AM
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If you are going to do this with your table saw be sure to build a tall fence extension and use a zero clearance insert to keep the edge from dropping into the blade opening.
Using a table saw for this is likely the best way to do it, but you will need to have these two items to be able to do it safely.

Charley

Central North Carolina
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 06:48 PM
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Router table with a raised panel bit but thats not a table saw. Sorry...
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-04-2013, 03:14 AM Thread Starter
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so --

I still need to figure out how to get raised panels on the drawer fronts. I mean, I built the jig for the table saw -- but, that was only half effective (after many tries and many wrecked pieces of wood). Then, I decided, well, I'll just by the bit -- so I bought a vertical raised panel bit set. That seemed like it'd work, but I had lots of trouble getting it to line up and work today.

The desk is built, the desktop is together and sanded. But, the god-d!@#$!@# drawer fronts are making me crazy. It's nifty, but it provides irregular results. Next, I tried using the raised panel bit. But, it's also provided me with "uneven" results. Here's what I mean: the angle is slightly off; or, the cut doesn't go all the way through the wood, but 90% through (close but yet so far). Or, there's tear out that ruins (another) nearly finished drawer front. Is there some hidden secret to all of this?

And, oh -- the face fronts are 2x6 blocks, totally planed down, and square to the face and the side -- so, no issue there.

So, I do have a bit of a plan: I think I'm going to set the table saw for 10 degrees and eyeball the tablesaw blade to ensure it pops through so i take off a big chunk; then, I think I'm going to put the drawer fronts on the router table so the vertical raised panel bit I purchased can then get me out to more like 15%, with the nice slot to the center. Not sure whether to "ease into" the router cut, by raising the bit (that always seems to invite error, cause I can't quite figure out how to get the bit to the exact precise location I need it) -- or, I think I can continually push the fence further and further from the vertical panel bit until it has the greatest exposure for the cut I want. (I suppose I can plant a stop block on the router table).

Anyhow, I was trying to avoid building another jig -- but, it does seem like I'd need to build a vertical support jig for pushing the drawer front through to cut the small drawer front side. Otherwise, in my attempts today it's very clumsy to push through the 4" side of a 4x~14" drawer front. Here's the jig: Vertical raised-panel bits

Ugh - I just want it to be done so I can move on to other stuff. And, for better or worse, I refuse to route some other front on the drawer -- the plans call for raised panel and I'm going to figure it out one way or the other :-).

thoughts appreciated.

cek.



resources related to this post:

Panel Raising Jig - NewWoodworker.com LLC
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-05-2013, 07:50 PM
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Haven't had much luck with vertical bit. I do use a horizontal cut style with hold down feather boards, nice and firm down pressure. Use progressive depth cuts. Most times the end grain burns to some extent depending on feed rate and species so be prepaired to do some hand sanding. Depending on the profile, found a 1" x 4" sanding drum works well for sanding, but most of my work is in an ogee style. Not pleased with the table saw type cuts.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-05-2013, 10:05 PM
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Sir, I read your post re: raising a drwr front as you would a panel. Two things. 2X6 seems a bit much for a drwr front. Also, stop wasting lumber. Buy a sheet, or a half sheet, or a 1/4 sheet of MDF. Rip off pieces to the width of whatever your finish piece is to be and work out your methods of shaping with this material. If you need a 2X blank just laminate two pcs of 3/4" together and voila . . . 2X. MDF also paints very well and is very durable. Don't forget to prime though.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 07:45 AM
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If you are not having luck with the table saw it is most likely because the blade is too close to the fence. Try adding a very thick sacrificial fence to move thing further away. Screw a few 2x4's together then add the high fence to that. The angle of the blade will determine how high the raised panel look is.
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