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| This is a discussion on Bosch 1617EVSPK Router within the General Routing forums, part of the Routers category; I believe the switch problem is in one particular batch of Bosch routers. I own ... |
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| | #11 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User |
I believe the switch problem is in one particular batch of Bosch routers. I own 2 1617EVS routers and have never had a problem with the switch on either one. WAM | ||
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| | #12 (permalink) | ||
| Retired Moderator ![]() |
One of the nicest things about the 1617's is the way the fixed base works on a table. You can remove the handle knobs easily and this allows for use on smaller plates with less clearance. Adjusting the bit height is fast and easy. I guess if you had your router mounted directly to the table the above table adjuster would be needed.(Like the Craftsman 26620) The only thing I can think of that I would change is adding a shaft lock so only one wrench was required for bit changes.
__________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you. Last edited by Mike; 07-27-2006 at 10:56 PM. | ||
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| | #13 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
ok Last edited by cfm; 05-09-2005 at 10:49 AM. | ||
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| | #14 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
I do have this router. I bought it just over a year ago. About a month after the warrenty expired, the switch failed. Other than this problem, this router has been great. After doing some research on the web, I discovered that the problem comes with using the router upside down in a router table, and the power switch itself is not at all sealed, resulting in saw dust literally clogging the switch. I did not want to wait for a new switch to be sent, or take it in to be repaired, so I decided to look into fixing it myself. Nothing to it. I removed the two torx screws on the top cover. Pried out the switch, and disconnected the power wires. (Make note of where they go so you can reconnect properly) The switch itself can be taken apart using a some TLC and a flat head screw driver. Do this over a clean work surface, as there are a couple of small parts that can fall out. After cleaning out the dust, it took me a few minutes to figure out how the switch went back together, put it back in the router. After putting everything together I plugged the router in, flipped the switch back on, and the thing came back to life! In all, this took me 10 to 15 minutes to repair, and the router still works as well as when I bought it. | ||
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| | #15 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
Hi NiceG316 Very GOOD tip ,clear and to the point....That's what this forum is all about SHARING ,this tip will save someone some money and to take the time to blow out the router from time to time. Bj ![]()
__________________ MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos plus FREE MLCS Project Plans http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html Part Finder find parts for your power tools http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ Need some help replacing the parts http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/ Many Router Tips from RWS http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/ Router Tables ,Ready to use http://www.rt1000.com/ http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html Bob J. | ||
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| | #16 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
No Problem, and glad I could help. I know how frustrating it is to loose a power tool mid project which is usually when one fails. In my case I was working on a laminate countertop and backsplash when it happened. I am still fairly new to the router, and still discovering what it is capable of. I just found this forum today, and have found it very informative. I built my a traditional router table last summer. This summer I am looking at trying to build a horizontal table. | ||
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| | #17 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
I am new to the forum! I just found a 1617EVSPK on Craig's List for $125. It was used twice & looks brand new. It is now in a Rockler Table with Rockler Adjustable Plate. I am trying an experiment and have ordered the "D-Handle" for the 1618. It looks like the only difference between the 1617 & 1618 is the shorter power cable to accomodate the D-Handle. If so, I can fix that in a jiffy. I'll report back when I get the results! CLTCS | ||
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| | #18 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: New Lebanon, Ohio "USA" First Name: Dave or "Doc" Posts: 8,709 ![]() |
Welcome to the RouterForums Cliff.
__________________ Dave the "Doctor" In woodworking there is no scrap, only firewood. ![]() Please Please Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum.![]() Thank you. | ||
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| | #19 (permalink) | ||
| Retired Moderator ![]() |
Cliff, the D handle will not see much use; the fixed base gets table mounted and the plunge base gets used for free hand work. You can not plunge with the D handle base so why spend the money for it?
__________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you. | ||
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| | #20 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Mike, Thanks for input. I can return the base with no questions asked, so no harm - no foul! I am new to the world of routing and input like yours will give me the knowledge I need in a hurry! Thanks again, Cliff | ||
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