Routing drawer bottom and box joint corners - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Default Routing drawer bottom and box joint corners

I am fixing to build a desk drawer using box joints for the corners and route a groove for the drawer bottom.
My question is which should I do first? All done on a router table.
I would like to minimize tear out where the grooves and joints meet.
Thanks
Mike
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 06:30 PM
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You can rout stopped dados in the sides to fit the bottom, rout straight through the ends and then plug the ends of the dados where they show on the outside of the box, or you can clamp the 4 sides together and place it on the router table with a small diameter slotting bit of the correct size to fit the bottom and then just cut the dado in all 4 sides at the same time. A small diameter slotting bit is necessary to keep the corner cut within the thickness of the sides. You will then need to round the corners of the bottom just enough so that they match the arc cut by the slotting bit. Lee Valley carries these slotting bits in two sizes. See the links below. Other companies may also offer them, but I haven't found any others with the small diameter needed.

Box-Slotting Bits - Lee Valley Tools


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 06:44 PM
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Hi

No need to buy a 30.oo bit for the job when a norm router bit will do the job just fine with stop blocks on router table fence...just need to stop short of the end so you don't blow out the end of the pass..

But if you want to do it that way just clamp the box up without any glue and just use a slot cutter bit unclamp the box and round the ends of the bottom then put in place and then glue up the drawer/ box..

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help. I will work on it.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 07:09 AM
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Unless you really want a box joint there is a much quicker and easier way of building the drawer. Use a 3/8" rabbiting bit on the front to set the sides in(assuming that you are using 3/8" thick wood). Use a straight bit (what ever size your bottom thickness is) to cut the bottom groove and the grove on the back end of the drawer. Cut the back of the drawer to fit between the sides and nail it all together.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 08:03 AM
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There are myriad of videos on YouTube any way you want.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I really want to make box joints. Just to prove I can. I have drawers in my workbench that are 20 years old and they have held together just fine with just glue and butt joints. And a microwave stand with a drawer that is almost 30 years old and working fine. However, this drawer will be part of a podium I am building for my niece and thought it would be nice to look a little nicer.

I will prolly make a sample first to see what works best. I have a lot of sample wood reclaimed from pallets so I can practice. :-)

Just trying to minimize tear out.
Note: Since I will be putting a false front on the drawer, I think I only need to make stop dado for the drawer front piece. The rest won't be seen anyway.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 06:01 AM
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Just a word of caution about using pallet wood. Many are treated with nasty chemicals to kill insects and many others have been used to transport hazardous chemicals. If your pallet wood has any of these chemicals in the wood you or your family may suffer some serious health issues from it.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tip Charley. I am well versed in the use of pallets. The only ones I have been tearing down are labeled HT (heat Treated) and are in good shape. No old rebuild ugly ones for me.
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