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General Routing General Routing is a place to discuss the general operations of the router. This is where we talk about the routers that are still in the box, or the first router bit, what is a table-mounted and/or Portable routers.


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Old 06-11-2007, 11:13 PM   #31
bobj3
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Hey Bob one more note about the Dremel table

Now that you have the Colt, you will not need a Dremel table once you mount your Colt in a router table, all you need is to get the item below ,then you can use the Colt with the VS control and use all the Dremel tools in your new router table..

Steel Adaptor Bushings
#271 and this one #273
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../adapbush.html

I have the full set and they work great...



----------------



Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
Hi Bob

That's when the Dremel table comes into play , it can be a pain to cut a straight line with it but once it's mounted in the table it's easy job, I use it all the time to cut thin plastic parts true...or to say straight
It's great when you want to just remove a 1/16" or 1/8" and keep it true.
Plus you get small saw blades that work great also and use small router bits in it also.

see snapshot below , just one more way to spend your money, hahahaha but this is a good one.

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-231A-Sh...1524722&sr=8-1

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Old 06-11-2007, 11:19 PM   #32
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Bj what dremel cutter would you use in the Colt to separate boxes?

Corey
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Old 06-11-2007, 11:26 PM   #33
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Hi Corey

Here's the key, you can slow down the slot cutter but the saw is always running at top speed and if you get in a jam you can just pull it away from the cutter, I run mind at about 8,000 rpm or lower and that speed because of the dia. it's just moving along slow but doing it's job...plus it flat on the table and you are in control.
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Old 06-11-2007, 11:51 PM   #34
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Hi Corey

That saw blade you sent off for or you can get small dia. saw blades for the Dremel but aging the slot cutter in the Colt table will do the job just fine
I think you got a 1/2" harbor for the saw blade you have but all you need to do is make a center ring to hold the blade true in a Dremel arbor, but the slot slot cutter is great, you can get one that's 3/32" and cuts stock just like butter...plus you can stack them and make the splines easy..

Just need to make a fence.

or just buy the blades and a adaptor bushing from MLCS part number #271

Dremel blades and arbor ▼
http://www.amazon.com/2-Wood-Cutting...1620076&sr=8-3


---------------


Quote:
Originally Posted by challagan
Bj what dremel cutter would you use in the Colt to separate boxes?

Corey
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Old 06-12-2007, 12:12 AM   #35
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BJ I like the idea of using the saw blade for making thin splines in boxes that can be filled with veneer etc. I like the looks of the tiny splines. I will just have to get a slot cutter set and give them a try.

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Old 06-12-2007, 03:34 PM   #36
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Hi Corey

Here's a snapshot or two of the fence I now use on the Colt router table to remove tops from boxes or to put in slots... the one in the picture(s) below is a 1/8" slot cut..
cutting into some MDF stock, The Bosch Colt has all the power you need at the low speed, it's a GREAT router

Thanks again for the heads up on this little 1HP router

Bj
Attached Thumbnails
what-router-bit-table-edging-6823.jpg  what-router-bit-table-edging-6824.jpg  what-router-bit-table-edging-6825.jpg  what-router-bit-table-edging-6826.jpg  
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Old 06-12-2007, 09:01 PM   #37
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Nice.... need to get a couple new 2 X

Corey
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Old 06-12-2007, 09:07 PM   #38
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Corey

2 x 2" x 4" = ? right,,,,,,, now see if you had a planer you could make some in a heart beat LOL

LOL LO LOL

By the way that's some 1" x 4" scrap pine in the snapshots for the fence just glued and screwed to make a quick fence ..

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Machine Cut ▼
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Last edited by bobj3; 06-12-2007 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 06-14-2007, 01:55 PM   #39
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Thanks, Dave.

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Welcome to the Router Forums Clem and a belated Happy Birthday to you.
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Old 06-14-2007, 02:09 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
Hi Clem
I think you are talking about this type of plastic T-edging molding, the norm is a 1/16 slot (5/64") see link below.
...
Use one of the SMALL battery saws with a 1/16" saw BLADE set to 1/4" to 5/16" deep.

...
----------------------
Bobj3,

I used my small battery saw with a thin finish blade (1/16") and made the cuts freehand. I clamped a 2X4 to the edge of the table on the long sides and lined up the blade with the middle ply of the 3/4 plywood. This worked good for the length because the ply was grain long so it was soft and easy to cut. The short length was cross grain and it was slightly harder but because the cut was so shallow it went very well. I also freehanded the rounded corners and was a little shakey in some of the grooves but the straight sides were good so the edging stayed in the rounded corners very well. I had to tap the edging into the groove all around the edge.

Thanks for your help.

Clem

P.S. This has been an interesting thread, thanks for all of the input and the welcome.
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