Joe Lyddon

I'm assuming that you want to make a Chamfer edge cut on 1/2" thick material.

Depth of cut is controlled by the darkness of the artwork being used.

Let's say the machine is set to make cuts High-to-Low using Light-to-Dark artwork. (you have the choice of light-to-dark or dark-to-light)
I use light to dark because I want to conserve printer ink!

You can have a space as wide as you wish... say 1", 1.5" or even 3" defined and the machine will cut a slope from the highest point to the lowest point based ONLY on the darkness/lightness of the artwork; degrees of slope is immaterial... it's the degree of Gradation that controls it.

If you have a Black line, there is no gradation at all, the line will be as deep as the maximum depth setup for the cut.

If you have a 1" space that has a nice even gradation from inside to outside, White to Black in an even gradation, you will get an even slope cut from the highest point, Whitest, to the Lowest point, Blackest.

If you have a 1" space where the artwork is drawn, inside to outside, with simple 1/8" lines next to each other, starting with light shades of grey to Black, you will get stair stepped cuts from white-to-black.

Some programs can draw gradations... Adobe Photshop does it nicely.

If you want to end up with 1/2 thick material with a slope cut on it, cut into 3/4" material then resaw it off with a bandsaw to get your 1/2"

Oh... it will also take a long time for it to happen... that machine is NOT a speed demon... it cuts every pixel with a router bit!

Good luck!

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bobj3

Hi Joe

Say what ? ?


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Bj

dadsalmon

Thanks guys! Joe you have given the most encouragement, but there is a problem. I usually mill my stock with a thickness planer down to the 1/2 inch thickness that I need. After thinking about this with the input from here, I think my next approach will be to use my compound mitre saw. The goal is to get a good fit where these pieces join without the gaps that I have now. So we'll see if this approach works any better.

AxlMyk

Getting a rough edge on a router table could mean a couple things..
1. Dull bit..
2. You're taking too much off at once.. May need to take smaller amounts off till you get the final cut..

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Joe Lyddon

Yep, a good Miter Saw is the right tool... Maybe a sliding one for more flexiblility...

edit:
Besides, this machine is probably NOT the right tool for the job...
Some relevant quotes from thread:
http://www.routerforums.com/cnc-rout...moderator.html
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unlimitedwoodworker:
bob what would you charge me? i'm still looking

bobj3:
From 125.oo to 200.oo it depends how many bits I use and run time and the size you want it to be and the wood type

unlimitedwoodworker:
ohh wow! guess i'll have to scratch that, i dont have a job at the time, i thought you would charge alot less than that. I dont have that kind of funds , guess i will have to look elsewhere.
Jeff

bobj3:
Sorry, it's a 2,000.oo machine
You may want to try the CarveWright FORUM

http://www.carvewright.com/forum/

You may find someone that will do it for alot less , can't hurt to ask Start with " pkunk " he is a nice guy and just may do it...
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