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General Routing General Routing is a place to discuss the general operations of the router. This is where we talk about the routers that are still in the box, or the first router bit, what is a table-mounted and/or Portable routers.


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Old 08-06-2007, 10:53 AM   #11
bobj3
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Just as a side note ***

At one time I sold Craftsman hand tools and Snap-On hand tools and a buddy was down at CF & I steel and they where making Craftsman tools and Snap-On tools the same day and the steel they used was the same for both just a diff. mold, my buddy said the Q.C. for the Snap-On was better,, they would kick out 3 or 4 out of 10 for the Snap-On and maybe one for the Craftsman out of 10,,,but the same steel in both brand names.....so to say it maybe the same thing for this new Craftsman router..

Bj
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Old 08-06-2007, 07:30 PM   #12
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I agree as above that it doesn't really matter who is making it for them but I believe it is Black and Decker. This looks a lot like some of the pieces from Porter Cable. The Ridgid looks almost identical to the Ryobi as far as the raising mechanism on the fixed base version. To me the only similarity to the Ridgid is the LED lighting.
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Old 08-22-2007, 12:00 AM   #13
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Hi,

I'm new to the forum & new to woodworking. I have always seen the great things one can to with a router & finally purchased my first routher this week. I got the Craftsman 17543 combo talked about here. Glad to see it's a respectable unit.

I finally took it out of the box tonight. Read the instructions & tried to use my first bit. Came across a few questions. Maybe someone can clear things up.

1. Instructions say to loosen collet/nut & put cutter bit shank in. When I did that with the collet/nut that was delivered on the router....it would not tighten on the shank. I bought the Craftsman 30 bit set & used the 1/2 in. bead & cove. I looked in the book & didn't see anything about the other collet included in the box. I assume that was the 1/4 inch & since I was using the 1/2 bit, didn't need it. I changed it out & it close tightly. Guess first question would be......was the collet delivered the 1/2 collet & why didn't my 1/2 in. bead & cove not fit?

2. The 1/2in bead & cove is larger than 1 1/4 in diameter. I was going to ask this question...but I see on 13 of page 12, the sub-base will not allow anything larger than 1 1/4 inches. Can I not use these large bits? Can the sub-base be removed? Is that advisible? Can I only use large bits on a router table when the base is not used?

Anyway....didn't want to do anything stupid, decided to step back, grab a beer, re-read the manual & try again tomorrow. In the mean time....I came across your forum.

Thanks to everyone who contributes & makes these forums so informative.

CMan
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Old 08-22-2007, 12:15 AM   #14
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Cman, a bunch of the guys here have bought this unit and love it. I got the non VS one last night with just the plunge base. DIdn't realize it was just a single speed but I have another Dewalt 2 base combo that I use as well. This router has a smoother plunge than my dewalt... My Dewalt still is the most comfortable router I have used, but I like the features and bang for the buck with the new Craftsmans. Enjoy your new router!

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Old 08-22-2007, 12:33 AM   #15
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Hi CMan

The Craftsman combo comes with the 1/4" and the 1/2" collet nuts,,,because the router is new take the nut all the way off the router and place in the bit you want to use, push the bit in the but just so the base of the bit comes out of the botton of the collet nut then screw it back on the router then crank it down.besure to push in the lock pin.

They don't want you to use any bit over 1 1/4" in dia. in the plunge base/standard base, that's alot of steel spining below the base BUT you can make a new base plate quick and easy with some 1/4" plastic that will let you use bigger bits but don't go over 2",,that's say put a 2 1/2" hole in the new base plate..use the base plate that came with the router to get the lay out for the center hole and the mounting screws.

It's best to use a router table for any thing that's over 2" dia.


Bj
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Old 08-22-2007, 01:07 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CManinLa
Guess first question would be......was the collet delivered the 1/2 collet & why didn't my 1/2 in. bead & cove not fit?
Hi CMan, The 1/2" most likely refers to the radius of the cove and bead cut that the bit produces. Most suppliers have bits like that with either 1/4" or 1/2" collets.
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Old 08-22-2007, 11:33 AM   #17
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Rusty, you are correct. After looking the bit set over more closely, appears the 30 bit set sold by Craftsman is 1/4" shank. When I saw the 1/4 & 1/2 on the bits, I thought that was the shank size. The shank is 1/4" & the size listed by the bit is the size of the cut.

I'm learning new stuff already. That also explains why the bit would not fit the first time I tried. The 1/2" collet was installed in the unit & I tried to put a 1/4" shank bit in the collet. It's all coming together now.

Thanks for the input. I may get a piece of wood routed tonight.
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Old 08-25-2007, 07:57 PM   #18
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Got into my shop (garage) today & played a little more with the Craftsman router. Since I'm new to everything, everything I do is a learning experience. As mentioned before, the Craftsman sub-base only has a 1 1/4" hole & cannot use bits greater in diameter than 1 1/4".

I took bobj3's advice & decided to make my own sub-base. I bought a sheet of acrylic at the depot & began to make a new sub-base. Wasn't anything I'd brag about but it's functional. Since I didn't have counter sink drill bits, I picked up a set of those & a new set of jigsaw blades. I cut a square out of the acrylic & drilled a hole in the center & tried to make a circle with the jigsaw. I found the acrylic a little difficult to work with. As the bits & blade warm, the acrylic stuck. After using sandpaper, a dremel & a drill bit to somewhat round out the center, I was able to get it onto the base. Like I said...not pretty but functional.

So at the end of the day, I have a few new items in my tool box & new sub-base for my router. I would like to do a better job cutting & fitting when using acrylic. Does anyone have any suggestions, tips or expertise dealing with acrylics.

Thanks again,
CMan
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Old 08-25-2007, 08:13 PM   #19
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Hi Cman

acrylics = slow and easy, in and out of the cut let it cool down and then back to cutting it....need to whatch the end of the cut don't force it or it will crack out on the bottom side...ABS works better for base plates...
If you have a scroll saw it works great for cutting all types of plastic....and number 5 blade works well...

Bj


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Last edited by bobj3; 08-25-2007 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 08-25-2007, 08:39 PM   #20
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Thanks Bob. I bought a Bosch T101A blade which is supposed to be good for plexiglass. Where can I buy ABS? I searched the Depot & Lowes & don't get a hit on ABS. Is it know by another name?
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