artframer

Hi guys, total newb and idiot here, be gentle.

I want to make simple frames for modern pictures, just with a rabbet cut into a plain piece of 1x2" or similar to accommodate glass, artwork, matt and backing. See roughly representative drawing below (ignore measurements):



I thought a router mounted to a router table would be the way to go, so I bought a plunge router via the Internet, like an idiot, one that requires you to press a button and pull a switch simultaneously to make it go. No way you can stick that under a table and make it work, right?



Well, can't send it back so now I'm trying to get some hints as to a simple jig I could build to get the job done. This router is only 1100w (1.5HP), so I guess I'd have to rout the rabbet in stages to avoid overheating.

This must be a simple task, but I'm not an experienced router-person and would like some directions. Anyone?

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harrysin

Regarding the switch arrangement, it is normally possible to lock it on using a Velcro strip or more permanently with a cable tie,this also applies to circular saws mounted under tables and use an auxiliary switch. Are you're frames to be routed from one piece or conventionally made from four pieces?

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Harry

BrianS

Just curious, once the button is pressed and the switch pulled, will it stay on if you unplug it? If "big brothers safety system" will stay in the on position, then you can either mount a remote switch, much easier then reaching under the table anyway, or just pull the plug from the wall. (A good habit to get into anyway.. saves fingers when doing bit changes or height adjustment)

And you are correct, the router is the way to go for making the cuts you describe. Of course, once you get comfortable with the machine, you can then get some different bits and make your picture frames a lot fancier. Your imagination is pretty much the only limit here.

As for cutting the rabbet in stages, this is done mainly to protect the bit from overheating, not the router. A 1.5 hp router has plenty of power for this type of work.

Brian

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bobj3

Hi Art

Looks like a nice router But you may not want to mount it in a router table..

This is why... it looks like it can only take on 1/4" shank bits,,,they don't make to many bit bits for the small routers,,,, that said it will work but it will take a bit of rework on your part,, the 1st.thing I would do is open the handle up and by pass the red button switch, you can always rap it with some black elec.tape to hold it in..but do it right from the get go...

Once you get that error fixed I would send off for a speed control device like the link below, it comes with a off and on switch and a VS control so you can slow the router speed down...that will let you make many passes without heating the bit up and the motor up...plus you can turn the router on or off without putting your hands under the table....
Then we come to changing the bit,, the router you have it's hard to switch the bits when it's mounted to the router table..

ROUTER SPEED CONTROL
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43060


BUT you would be best off and set the new router to one side and use it for hand router jobs and pickup a router combo set from Sears for 109.oo dollars that will do all you want and more....it's 2 1/4HP and it can take on 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits, and it comes with a VS built in...


I also see you ask about making picture frames , I will jump on that one after this one...

Bj

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PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

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Bob J.

artframer

@Harrysin: I just take a length of plain, rectangular cross-section timber and rout the rabett (that's the plan anyway), then slice it up into 4 sides using a Makita mitre saw.

@BrianS: both switches pop out if not pressed in, there is no click to lock them in. Safety overkill. Cable ties could hold them in, I guess.

@bobj3, the machine is indeed a 1/4" (6-8mm) router. I'm in Australia (left the USA recently), so prices are sky high here and there is no Sears or WalMart. And no Harbor Freight! (Love that shop) The router does have speed control built in on a dial. If you dont think I should mount it under a table, what about a jig to cut those rabetts? I presume the bit I should use looks like this:

bobj3

Hi Art

O NO, one more Australia , that can't get great deals from the USA....

But that bit should work fine

Hi Art

Below you will see a snapshot of a SKI jig that will do the trick I'm sure.
http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...-mine-7242.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...rysin-7072.jpg

You can click on the left side of the post and take a look at the gallery items ,they will show more details of the jig,,, this jig is Tom's and Harry type of jig and it works great and should do just what you want to do WITHOUT a router table..

Hope this helps
If you want more details just ask. Pls.

__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

Drugstore Cowboy

NOT wanting to start a war with the guys who love their ski's.
Let me acknowledge I think that idea is cool.

But just for the sake of a couple of other options.
I have made dozens of picture frames like you describe and often as not - all I used was a simple rabbet bit. And all I have ever owned was 1/4" shank machines. You can get them I know that will go up to 1/2" in from the side.
All you do is secure your wood so it doesnt move -- set your depth and go.
The bearing on the bit is your guide.
Actually - the old style bits didnt even have a bearing - just a straight pin.
The new ones (much improved) come with one size bit -- and you vary your rabbet by changing the size of the bearing.

If/when I had a router table and had my router already mounted - I would use a straight bit.

ANY way you do it -- you are 100% right about doing it in stages.
About 1/8" depth at a time is the general rule of thumb.

If you have a table saw handy -- Another simple option is to make two passes on a table saw.
One for the width - one for the depth.

cbsjoez1935

ArtFramer
I have an old craftsman router with the same switch arrangement you describe on your Bosch. With mine, I find that once the trigger switch turns the machine on, press in that safety button, take your finger away from the button and then release the trigger switch. If you press the trigger switch again, it turns the machine off. Get a separate on/off switch and once you have started the router as described, don't touch the router, just use the outboard safety switch and unplug before changing bits. Caution here---if you take the router out of the table, unplug it first and then depress the trigger swich to turn off the router on/off.

JoeZ

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Mike

AF, There is another possibility, you can by pass the switch button. Doing this will not effect the speed controller or soft start features of the router. It will however void your warranty. Knowing Bosch products as I do, I would not be overly concerned about the warranty. They tend to far surpass the guaranteed work life and with replacement brushes will serve you for many years to come. Please keep a couple things in mind: If you by pass the switch you should label the router so nobody else will try and use it un-aware. While it is ok to use an after the plug switch to control the on/off function you can not use an external speed controller. Doing so will burn up the router and/or controller. And as always, unplug the router whenever you change bits or make adjustments.

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Mike
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Doyle

Welcome artframer.
No idiots here. We are all getting educated and there are some fine educators willing to help.
Take care
Doyle

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