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| | #1 |
| Registered User Forum Geek | When using a router biscuit bit on a large panel I’m assuming it’s best to do it by hand (not on a table). But when cutting into the panel side you only have the thickness of the material to rest the router base one. So what’s the best way to deal with this? I’m assuming some kind of right angle jig would help? Is there something specific for biscuits? I’m going to build a smallish carcass for my router table top this weekend and want to see my options. Of course I could always just buy a joiner. But that would dip into my router table goodies fund… Thanks! |
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| | #2 |
| Registered User Forum Fanatic | I would use this as a good excuse to buy a pocket hole jig if you don't already have one..they come in real handy and this is an ideal application for it.
__________________ Greg ------------------------------- |
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| | #3 | |
| Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King | Hi Nickbee Greg is right on but they are not free most go for about 70 bucks if not more, you can do the job with a slot cutter, to fit the size of biscuit you want to use ,,,all you need is a quick home make jig to fit the bottom of your router and some biscuits , it's bit tricky but not to bad ..the bearing on the bit will do most of the work for you..and the jig..and all you need to put out of your pocket will be about 20.oo bucks...============= Quote:
__________________ Bj | |
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| | #4 |
| Registered User Forum Geek | Ya bob that was the idea. I like it when a bearing can make an operation brainless ![]() And for the jig,, Can I use a few pieces of MDF joined at a 90 deg angle? THANKS! |
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| | #5 |
| Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King | Hi, Nickbee Here's a quick one you can make in a heart beat..you don't need the guard but it's nice if you want to set the router down for a just a bit and mark the next slot pocket.......... Slot cutters at the right price ▼ http://cgi.ebay.com/1PC-1-4-SH-Slot-...QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/1PC-1-2-SH-Slot-...QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/11pc-1-4-Shank-S...QQcmdZViewItem Over size bearing to fit the slot cutter shank.. D - BEARINGS (for different depth cuts) http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ges/katbt7.htm #12111 1-1/8" OD x 5/16" ID = Cut Depth 3/8" #12112 1-1/4" OD x 5/16" ID = Cut Depth 5/16" #12113 1-3/8" OD x 5/16" ID = Cut Depth 1/4" #12114 1-5/8" OD x 5/16" ID = Cut Depth 1/8" =========== Screw slots in the base plate, can be put in with two router bits but it sure is nice when you can do it all with just one bit. ![]() http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/order...screw_slot.htm =======
__________________ Bj Last edited by bobj3; 08-09-2008 at 03:31 PM. |
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| | #6 |
| Registered User Forum Geek | Ok Bob maybe I’m missing something… It looks like that jig would be setting the depth of the slot cutter. I think the bearing on a dedicated biscuit bit would de the same thing… My concern is that when cutting into the “face” of a panel the router base would only have the thickness of the material to sit on (say ¾” MDF in my case this weekend)… So I guess my game plan was to come up with some type of 90 deg “platform” that could be clamped to the panel for more stability (can you tell I trust my hand / motor skills). Make sense? Is there a better way to skin this cat? |
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| | #7 | |
| Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King | H Nick " Is there a better way to skin this cat?" = Yes ,buy biscuit machine.. Harbor Freight sells a CHEAP one that I don't recommend with a carb.tip 4" blade. The jig is made so you can control the slot cutter... The bearing will stop the cutter from going to deep,, and the jig will do the same, some biscuits don't need to be put in deep ,but the jig will let the slot cutter work without taking the router out of your hands.. It's a big bit to be spining on the end on the router... but most of the bit is inside of the jig block..the guard can be moved over the edge of the stock so you get the slot cut true and sq. to the edge.. The depth in the edge is set by the router and it's best to use a standard router NOT a plunge type...you can use the plunge type but it must be locked in place b/4 you start...and must not be moved until your done with all the slots. =============== Quote:
__________________ Bj | |
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| | #8 |
| Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King | Nickbee, the thickness of BJ's simple jig is the same as you're material, so part of the router is on the work-piece and the rest is on the bench keeping the router level. As has been suggested, there really is no substitute for a dedicated jointer and for occasional use a Chinese cheepie will last forever!
__________________ Harry |
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| | #9 |
| Registered User Forum Geek | okay,,, Here's another question. When using a large bit like a biscuit cutter. If one had the a PC router (2 1/4 HP) with variable speed... Where should the speed be set at? I believe the point of a variable speed router is to slow it down with larger bits (to reduce the bit's MPH),,,, As you can tell I'm learning lots from lingering on here!!! Thanks guys! |
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| | #10 | |
| Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King | Hi Nick Just my 2 cents I always run the router at it's low speed,,,,the bit will do the job, it's always a bit scarey when the router is screaming in your ear...and can put you on edge...I have used routers for a long time and it still puts me on edge.. That's what's neat about the new type of routers you can turn them down easy. Quote:
__________________ Bj | |
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