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**bobj3** · 12-04-2007, 08:45 PM

Hi dadsalmon

Just a note about the OP cope and bead bit,,,

They no longer offer that one for sale,, and this could be why.

I love router bits and have MANY of them ,out of all the bits I have I dislike that one bit the most, it will make more firewood than any other bit I have ,,,

It's a real pain to get the 2nd. cut setup and to come out right
or to say get the bit setup right for the bead pass...

The O-Rings/faucet washers are not use in the plunge router the norm because they don't come into play...only use in the router table setup ....but if they are in place the will not hinder the bits that are going to be used..

Hope this helps

=============

Quote:

Originally Posted by dadsalmon

Harry that is also my feeling. This operation is only to reduce the amount of the heat transmitted from the motor to the bit. I tighten bits with the router on its side. after finger tightening the collet, just as you see Bob do on the RWS. As far as using the oring as a height positioner for interchanging bits to attain the same height as in cope and bead bits or T & G, maybe I'm missing something, but I have a plunge router. and what insures that it is set at the same height? Not having a digital height adjuster kinda precludes any implied accuracy. I feel test cuts are the best way to verify the settings. The stacked bit for cope and bead from OP requires height adjustment and testing.

**harrysin** · 12-04-2007, 09:02 PM

Bj., I can't do as you ask because I now have A Triton router permanently in the table and Triton say put the cutter ALL the way in. On the previous table mounted Makita, a plastic spacer was supplied on to which the cutter was dropped. When short cutters were used with the Makita, which required two spanners, and I only have two hands, I simply had an "O" ring on the shaft. I doubt that I would ever rely on a cutter ending up in an identical position whatever method is used, test cuts in my usual humble opinion are the way to go.

**bobj3** · 12-04-2007, 09:53 PM

Hi Harry

I looked in my router manuals and I can't find anything on insert two 3 ft. rods in the holes for the edge fence...

...

The grommet/ faucet washer goes in the bottom of the collet nut NOT in the bottom of the arbor shaft...Triton router will work well for this type of setup.

The faucet washer works the best for this type of job because it will stay in place...it's only 1/8" thick...

Unlike the O-ring that will slip down or up when the bit is put in place...

You sound like me ,, Skis, I don;t need not stinkin skis and they can't work as well as the router table,, do you recall that ??? LOL LOL LOL

Get a faucet washer and press into to place and try it...

Then tell me what you think

==========

Quote:

Originally Posted by harrysin

Bj., I can't do as you ask because I now have A Triton router permanently in the table and Triton say put the cutter ALL the way in. On the previous table mounted Makita, a plastic spacer was supplied on to which the cutter was dropped. When short cutters were used with the Makita, which required two spanners, and I only have two hands, I simply had an "O" ring on the shaft. I doubt that I would ever rely on a cutter ending up in an identical position whatever method is used, test cuts in my usual humble opinion are the way to go.

dadsalmon · 12-04-2007, 10:02 PM

Ah, well, we have the no oringers and the oringers, to each his own, but mainly it's about having fun!

**bobj3** · 12-04-2007, 10:18 PM

Hi dadsalmon

Right on , have fun

==========

Quote:

Originally Posted by dadsalmon

Ah, well, we have the no oringers and the oringers, to each his own, but mainly it's about having fun!

dadsalmon · 12-05-2007, 01:57 AM

06-10-2006, 12:14 PM #2
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Hello Artedna, one usually puts an "o" ring in the arbor to keep the bit from "bottoming out". This prevents heat build up on the bit itself.
Some router collets are designed that way others could be an issue with the collet itself. Need a bit more info... router make, model??
__________________
Ken

This may be why I was misled about the heat factor. Rich

**harrysin** · 12-05-2007, 08:05 AM

"The grommet/ faucet washer goes in the bottom of the collet nut NOT in the bottom of the arbor shaft."

How about a drawing Bj. once again I appear to be missing the point. But doesn't it make getting out of bed in the morning so much easier when there is the forum to peruse.

**bobj3** · 12-05-2007, 10:03 AM

Hi Harry

How about a snapshot ,see below

=======

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...er-washers.jpg
http://wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_1.html

===============

Quote:

Originally Posted by harrysin

"The grommet/ faucet washer goes in the bottom of the collet nut NOT in the bottom of the arbor shaft."

How about a drawing Bj. once again I appear to be missing the point. But doesn't it make getting out of bed in the morning so much easier when there is the forum to peruse.

Hamlin · 12-05-2007, 02:24 PM

Hi Harry, on my two Makita 3612C's, I didn't receive any plastic insert. Nor do I have the two wrench system with either one.

With mine, you won't be putting in a "O-ring" simply due to the fact the arbor is hollowed much deeper than the shaft of the bits. The only "bottoming out" would be from the under side of the bit hitting the top side of the collet. Since I'm also using plunge routers, there is no need for such a setup.

Now, IMHO, the "O-ring", the following is taking directly from the RWS site...

Quote:

Never “bottom out” the router bit. When installing the bit pull it up slightly so that there is approximately 1/8” between the bottom of the bit and the router collet. This prevents heat transfer.

Quote:

Rich, I do the same thing but I have had them slip down to the bottom while tightening the collet nut when I didn't know it. Also with some matched sets of bits like tounge and groove, rail and stile etc. you retain the matched set characteristics when you bottom both out on the o-ring. No guess work.

Now, if you wish to believe that is has nothig to do with heat transfer, then there is a contradiction in terms between here (the forums), and the RWS site. http://www.routerworkshop.com/routerbits.html

With this being said, I'm done and I quit!

**harrysin** · 12-06-2007, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hamlin

Hi Harry, on my two Makita 3612C's, I didn't receive any plastic insert. Nor do I have the two wrench system with either one.

With mine, you won't be putting in a "O-ring" simply due to the fact the arbor is hollowed much deeper than the shaft of the bits. The only "bottoming out" would be from the under side of the bit hitting the top side of the collet. Since I'm also using plunge routers, there is no need for such a setup.

Now, IMHO, the "O-ring", the following is taking directly from the RWS site...

Now, if you wish to believe that is has nothig to do with heat transfer, then there is a contradiction in terms between here (the forums), and the RWS site. http://www.routerworkshop.com/routerbits.html

With this being said, I'm done and I quit!

I haven't ever used the 3612C in the table, prior to the Triton I used a Makita 3600BR which, unlike the 3612C uses two spanners. So far I haven't said a word about heat transfer, but as it has been brought up, consider, the surface area of the cutter end is a fraction of the total area in contact with the cutter, so I have difficulty in appreciating that it could make any appreciable difference to the temperature. As they say, that's just MY 2cents worth.

12-04-2007, 09:02 PM	#12
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 3,333 View harrysin's Gallery	Report This Post! Bj., I can't do as you ask because I now have A Triton router permanently in the table and Triton say put the cutter ALL the way in. On the previous table mounted Makita, a plastic spacer was supplied on to which the cutter was dropped. When short cutters were used with the Makita, which required two spanners, and I only have two hands, I simply had an "O" ring on the shaft. I doubt that I would ever rely on a cutter ending up in an identical position whatever method is used, test cuts in my usual humble opinion are the way to go. Attached Thumbnails __________________ *Harry*
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12-04-2007, 10:02 PM	#14
dadsalmon Registered User Dedicated Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 34 View dadsalmon's Gallery	Report This Post! Ah, well, we have the no oringers and the oringers, to each his own, but mainly it's about having fun! __________________ Everyone has an opinion, but not everyone has all the facts.
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12-05-2007, 01:57 AM	#16
dadsalmon Registered User Dedicated Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 34 View dadsalmon's Gallery	Report This Post! 06-10-2006, 12:14 PM #2 Hamlin Registered User Forum Geek User Info Posts: 479 Trader Rating: (0) Gallery: View -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Give Reputation Report this Post View Gallery Send Private Message \| View Profile \| Report this Post -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello Artedna, one usually puts an "o" ring in the arbor to keep the bit from "bottoming out". This prevents heat build up on the bit itself. Some router collets are designed that way others could be an issue with the collet itself. Need a bit more info... router make, model?? __________________ Ken This may be why I was misled about the heat factor. Rich __________________ Everyone has an opinion, but not everyone has all the facts.
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12-05-2007, 08:05 AM	#17
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 3,333 View harrysin's Gallery	Report This Post! "The grommet/ faucet washer goes in the bottom of the collet nut NOT in the bottom of the arbor shaft." How about a drawing Bj. once again I appear to be missing the point. But doesn't it make getting out of bed in the morning so much easier when there is the forum to peruse. __________________ *Harry*
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