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rprice54 · 05-20-2008, 07:40 PM

that makes sense, there definitely is some 'feel' to it all. the walnut tends to be a little brittle, I'll be sure to test it out.

I'm going to make some type of sled for the rails , I just need to be sure I can raise the router bit up high enough.

**bobj3** · 05-20-2008, 10:14 PM

Hi rprice

I'm not sure if you will believe this or not but you don't need a sled for the rails (cope) cut once you set the bit height you should not move the router up or down..when you replace the bit with the next bit ( bead ) in the matched R & S set..

=========

Quote:

Originally Posted by rprice54

that makes sense, there definitely is some 'feel' to it all. the walnut tends to be a little brittle, I'll be sure to test it out.

I'm going to make some type of sled for the rails , I just need to be sure I can raise the router bit up high enough.

rprice54 · 05-21-2008, 06:51 PM

so I took the calipers to the bit set, the overlap looks to be 3/8. So if I make my doors 2 3/8 wide then the rails need to be 4" shorter than the door width, right? The doors I need are 15 5/8 wide by 20" tall. So my rails need to be 11 5/8, right?

**bobj3** · 05-21-2008, 07:21 PM

Hi rprice

You'er right on the button BUT don't forget the over lap most are 1/2" on all 4 sides.

unless your are going to use the inset type (flush with the face frame or cabinet)

==========

rprice54 · 05-21-2008, 09:12 PM

check.

I'm going with 1/2" overlap (2" face frame) like I did on my walnut computer desk.

Thanks again.

**bobj3** · 05-21-2008, 09:43 PM

Sounds good rprice

You didn't say what type of hinge(s) you are going to use , but the jig below is a great one and it's at the right price...unlike the high price ones you see on the market place now days// >>>

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...hinge-jig.html

===========

rprice54 · 05-22-2008, 07:20 AM

my bro-in-law works at a custom cabinet shop here in town. I "cheat" and have them intstall fully concealed european hinges for me, they have a dedicated machine that takes about 15 second per door to drill and mount the hinges. Then I just hang them on the face frame and they are fully adjustable in any way you can imagine. They charge me about $6 a door including the hinges...

**bobj3** · 05-22-2008, 10:10 AM

HI rprice

Can't beat that

,,, you can buy the hinges off eBay for a 1.oo ea. the last time I did I got a lot of 100 bulk pack ,that are made to hang from the face frame, it's lot quicker to use the face frame than the case...no real measuring needed the norm....I use a block jig to line them up true for both sides the norm. ( just clamp the block jig in place and set the door on the block jig and put in the screws in the face frame..)

========

rprice54 · 05-31-2008, 08:22 AM

here are the sides and doors (dry fit) of the buffet I'm working on. Last time I posted a project people wanted 'in progress' pics, so here you go. I also built a new router table fence, the last one I had was pretty basic, it was actually the sacrificial fence for my table saw flipped around. This one is just for the router (my table is set in the extension wings of my TS). These show the setup I used for the panels, the fence is already ~7" tall, so I didn't use an axullary fence to support the panels.

the rockler bits worked great! I ran the router at speed "3" which sounded right.

The wide rails on the side pieces are not glued the entire width, I was afraid it would be too much cross grain. so I glued them next to the panel to keep the joints tight. the ends will covered/secured by molding/trim once the buffet gets assembled.

Bobj: I now see what you mean about coping first and then ripping out after. After turning one of my rails into scrapwood I grabbed a bigger piece and coped it first and then ripped out the rails. Thanks.

**bobj3** · 05-31-2008, 10:38 AM

Looking Good rpice54

It's going to be nice buffet

One more small tip,,, if you are going to round over the door edges take care not to go to deep,,,,the cup hole for the hinges is right below the round over..
a 1/4" "R" round over bit works well for this job...and will dress up the edge very nice..and removes that sharp edge...

By using a cove bit on the back side of the door will but in a finger/pull handle so to speak but it only needs to be 4" to 6" long the norm..a quick job to do on the router table but it adds alot to the cabinet...the pro.touch...

=========

05-20-2008, 07:40 PM	#11
rprice54 Registered User Sr. Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 72 View rprice54's Gallery	Report This Post! that makes sense, there definitely is some 'feel' to it all. the walnut tends to be a little brittle, I'll be sure to test it out. I'm going to make some type of sled for the rails , I just need to be sure I can raise the router bit up high enough.
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05-21-2008, 06:51 PM	#13
rprice54 Registered User Sr. Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 72 View rprice54's Gallery	Report This Post! so I took the calipers to the bit set, the overlap looks to be 3/8. So if I make my doors 2 3/8 wide then the rails need to be 4" shorter than the door width, right? The doors I need are 15 5/8 wide by 20" tall. So my rails need to be 11 5/8, right? Attached Thumbnails Last edited by rprice54; 05-21-2008 at 07:20 PM.
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05-21-2008, 07:21 PM	#14
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi rprice You'er right on the button BUT don't forget the over lap most are 1/2" on all 4 sides. unless your are going to use the inset type (flush with the face frame or cabinet) ========== Attached Thumbnails __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 05-31-2008 at 10:54 PM.
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05-21-2008, 09:12 PM	#15
rprice54 Registered User Sr. Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 72 View rprice54's Gallery	Report This Post! check. I'm going with 1/2" overlap (2" face frame) like I did on my walnut computer desk. Thanks again.
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05-21-2008, 09:43 PM	#16
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Sounds good rprice You didn't say what type of hinge(s) you are going to use , but the jig below is a great one and it's at the right price...unlike the high price ones you see on the market place now days// >>> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...hinge-jig.html =========== __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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05-22-2008, 07:20 AM	#17
rprice54 Registered User Sr. Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 72 View rprice54's Gallery	Report This Post! my bro-in-law works at a custom cabinet shop here in town. I "cheat" and have them intstall fully concealed european hinges for me, they have a dedicated machine that takes about 15 second per door to drill and mount the hinges. Then I just hang them on the face frame and they are fully adjustable in any way you can imagine. They charge me about $6 a door including the hinges...
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05-22-2008, 10:10 AM	#18
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! HI rprice Can't beat that ,,, you can buy the hinges off eBay for a 1.oo ea. the last time I did I got a lot of 100 bulk pack ,that are made to hang from the face frame, it's lot quicker to use the face frame than the case...no real measuring needed the norm....I use a block jig to line them up true for both sides the norm. ( just clamp the block jig in place and set the door on the block jig and put in the screws in the face frame..) ======== __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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05-31-2008, 08:22 AM	#19
rprice54 Registered User Sr. Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 72 View rprice54's Gallery	Report This Post! here are the sides and doors (dry fit) of the buffet I'm working on. Last time I posted a project people wanted 'in progress' pics, so here you go. I also built a new router table fence, the last one I had was pretty basic, it was actually the sacrificial fence for my table saw flipped around. This one is just for the router (my table is set in the extension wings of my TS). These show the setup I used for the panels, the fence is already ~7" tall, so I didn't use an axullary fence to support the panels. the rockler bits worked great! I ran the router at speed "3" which sounded right. The wide rails on the side pieces are not glued the entire width, I was afraid it would be too much cross grain. so I glued them next to the panel to keep the joints tight. the ends will covered/secured by molding/trim once the buffet gets assembled. Bobj: I now see what you mean about coping first and then ripping out after. After turning one of my rails into scrapwood I grabbed a bigger piece and coped it first and then ripped out the rails. Thanks. Attached Thumbnails Last edited by rprice54; 05-31-2008 at 08:30 AM.
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05-31-2008, 10:38 AM	#20
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Looking Good rpice54 It's going to be nice buffet One more small tip,,, if you are going to round over the door edges take care not to go to deep,,,,the cup hole for the hinges is right below the round over.. a 1/4" "R" round over bit works well for this job...and will dress up the edge very nice..and removes that sharp edge... By using a cove bit on the back side of the door will but in a finger/pull handle so to speak but it only needs to be 4" to 6" long the norm..a quick job to do on the router table but it adds alot to the cabinet...the pro.touch... ========= __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 05-31-2008 at 11:45 AM.
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