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Dewy · 02-24-2005, 09:25 PM

When I cut the mortices with a router then decide not to square them up, I make the tenons to finish size then saw each corner at 45° then chisel to these saw cuts.
The sides and top of the tenons match the mortices and the gaps between the tenon radiuses and the chamfered corners allows the trapped glue to escape.
I've never had any problem with weak joints doing it this way.

**Mike** · 02-25-2005, 02:58 AM

One other way to consider is to use pocket hole joinery. Using glue and pocket hole screws is actually stronger than a mortise and tenon joint. Take a look at the Kreg jig and give it some thought. I like using mine.

Cubbie · 02-25-2005, 08:26 AM

Yeah, I contemplated using pocket hole joinery in conjunction with dowels but didn't think it would stand up as well as a pinned tennon and mortise joint.

I first saw a pocket hole joint at a woodworking show a couple years ago and thought it was the coolest thing I ever saw, but never explored it further.

jerrymayfield · 02-25-2005, 10:46 AM

Simply use a round over bit. use a bit that matches the radius of the mortises.
regards
jerry

Cubbie · 02-26-2005, 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerrymayfield

Simply use a round over bit. use a bit that matches the radius of the mortises.

That was my first thought too, until I thought about it more and realised that it wouldn't work because you can't get all the way up to the shoulder of the tenon.. there'd still be a chunk of squared off tenon. I suppose one could chisel the last little bit off.

It just amazes me to see all the tenons in a book I just bought have perfectly rounded edges, but they don't explain how they got them.

I have two books coming from Amazon.ca, "Router Magic" and "Woodworking With The Router", and I'm hoping that either or both have good joinery sections.. specifically on mortises and tenons.

Christopher.

**Mike** · 02-26-2005, 10:04 PM

Christopher, you can make rounded tenons of limited length with your router. This requires buying or building a tenoning adapter. To be honest, neither is really cost effective in my opinion. Unless you are going into full time production of furniture you are far better off investing your money in other tools.

template tom · 02-27-2005, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cubbie

All the links to the images are broken.

Hopefully I have corrected the fault
Please let me know
Tom

Cubbie · 02-27-2005, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by template tom

Hopefully I have corrected the fault
Please let me know
Tom

Hi Tom,

The <img> tags point to files on your hard drive, not to files on the web server. Sadly, the page is effectively still broken.

DONALD · 02-28-2005, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cubbie

It sounds to me that I should be looking at one of two possibilities, rounding the tenon myself with a chisel, or using a floating tenon.

I still have a preference toward a rounded tenon made from the piece I'm putting into the mortise, rather than a floating one. I haven't done any chiselling in the past, so I don't know my abilities in rounding them off myself, or making an entire mess of it. *laughs*

The two rockler bits shown don't appear to make all that big of a floating tenon, and because the lee valley ones are so cheap, I'll probably go that route.

All the advise given thus far is muchly appreciated!

Christopher.

Depending on the thickness of the stock of the tenon you can use a half round bit. Some mfgs. have other names for this bit. But they all do the same thing..............that;s put a half round on the edge of the stock. But like the comments in the other postings, you don't have to riund them off because they don't show.
ADDED: If you don't have it I recommend "The New Router Handbook" by Patrick Spielman. It was written in 1993 so some of the routers won't look the same as they do now but it's the best book on routers and how they can be used I've found yet. It's worthwhile checking into.

Cubbie · 02-28-2005, 09:46 PM

I received my two books from amazon.ca this morning, the first being "Woodworking With The Router" and "Router Magic". I quickly dove into the tenoning sections of each book and found one method I think I really like, use a rasp or coarse file to round off the corners. My fears with the chisel is if you made a bad cut, you could end up taking too much off leaving the tenon too loose in the mortise. By using a rasp or file, you remove the squared off corners gradually and have more control over the rounding process.

I think that's the method I'm going to employ.

02-24-2005, 09:25 PM	#11
Dewy Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 120 View Dewy's Gallery	Report This Post! When I cut the mortices with a router then decide not to square them up, I make the tenons to finish size then saw each corner at 45° then chisel to these saw cuts. The sides and top of the tenons match the mortices and the gaps between the tenon radiuses and the chamfered corners allows the trapped glue to escape. I've never had any problem with weak joints doing it this way. __________________ Dewy support team at Paltalk voice chat program
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02-25-2005, 02:58 AM	#12
Mike Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Detroit, Michigan USA Posts: 3,379 View Mike's Gallery	Report This Post! One other way to consider is to use pocket hole joinery. Using glue and pocket hole screws is actually stronger than a mortise and tenon joint. Take a look at the Kreg jig and give it some thought. I like using mine. __________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you.
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02-25-2005, 08:26 AM	#13
Cubbie Registered User Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 26 View Cubbie's Gallery	Report This Post! Yeah, I contemplated using pocket hole joinery in conjunction with dowels but didn't think it would stand up as well as a pinned tennon and mortise joint. I first saw a pocket hole joint at a woodworking show a couple years ago and thought it was the coolest thing I ever saw, but never explored it further. __________________ Just a big kid..
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02-25-2005, 10:46 AM	#14
jerrymayfield Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 467 View jerrymayfield's Gallery	Report This Post! Simply use a round over bit. use a bit that matches the radius of the mortises. regards jerry
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02-26-2005, 10:04 PM	#16
Mike Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Detroit, Michigan USA Posts: 3,379 View Mike's Gallery	Report This Post! Christopher, you can make rounded tenons of limited length with your router. This requires buying or building a tenoning adapter. To be honest, neither is really cost effective in my opinion. Unless you are going into full time production of furniture you are far better off investing your money in other tools. __________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you.
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02-28-2005, 09:46 PM	#20
Cubbie Registered User Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 26 View Cubbie's Gallery	Report This Post! I received my two books from amazon.ca this morning, the first being "Woodworking With The Router" and "Router Magic". I quickly dove into the tenoning sections of each book and found one method I think I really like, use a rasp or coarse file to round off the corners. My fears with the chisel is if you made a bad cut, you could end up taking too much off leaving the tenon too loose in the mortise. By using a rasp or file, you remove the squared off corners gradually and have more control over the rounding process. I think that's the method I'm going to employ. __________________ Just a big kid..
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