bobj3

Inlay can be one of the trickey items to do with the router I'm also sure you will make some firewood the 1st. time or 2nd time, your router must be setup on dead center, that's the hard part, not all guides are the same size i.e. 5/16 can be .299 to .320 o,d. BUT if you buy the set the small ring should fit just right, but do buy a extra 1/8" bit they do break easy and they don't hog out alot of stock in a pass ,so to say it's best to move up to a bigger guide and bit to remove the stock once you have the base parts cut out.(pocket)
But I should say it's fun to make inlay items once you get the hang of it.
I should note,,,make the male part a bit higher (thicker) and then you can sand it down to the top,you can't add to it if it's to low in the pocket, you can shim it if you run into that error (with poster board stock) but it's not the same.
Once you pop it in that's it will not come out without some damage to the part,you can drill a small hole (1/2" in top),in the center of the lnlay b/4 you pop it in so you can pop it out with care,then plug the hole with the same stock as the top once your done with the inlay.

Just a Note**** some of the Inlay kits come with a SMALL ring in the brass guide and the small brass ring has small snap ring to hold the ring in place, this is the best type (snap-on-type), some come with a Allen set screw to hold the small ring in place this type I DON'T recommend , because the set screw will deform the the brass guide if you don't take great care when you torq it down and you will put a lip/neck on the brass guide that makes it hard to get it on the next time you want to use it.
The brass guides and ring are machined parts and must stay true so can used them over and over .
One more small NOTE**** the male part of the inlay will have SHARP points and the female part (pocket) will have round corners so to say use the 1/8" bit but you will still need to clean out the corners so the the insert will just pop in clean,I use a Exacto knife to do this fine work, not a chisel.


Have fun with the Inlay

Bj

Brass Inlay Set, for 1 3/16" hole size (PC type routers) ▼
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ter_inlay.html

Brass Inlay Set, from Oak-Park for 1 1/2" hole size ▼
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.htm...&product=IN027
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.htm...&product=BG034

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Bob J.

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template tom

Geordie
Simple inlays like a 75mm diameter are quite simple to insert all that is required is to produce the necessary circular cut-out template to suit the template guide and cutter that will be used. I would be using a 10mm cutter with a large template guide say 30mm.
If I wanted to insert a piece of different grained material I would use the same template and rout with a 16mm Guide and a 4mm Cutter producing the perfect fit.
The problem comes when you wish to insert spokes into the wheel. But it still may not be impossible.
I would still need further details if you wish me to assist you
Tom

Joe Lyddon

Tom,

Have you ever modified a small router guide, making it larger, by merely placing different sized WASHERS over the guide? The hole in the washer, of course, would have to be an exact fit over the guide.

I saw that done one time... I thought at the time, "What a slick way of doing that!".

Several washers could be glued together if more thickness was needed.

nzgeordie

OK. I had a brain(?)storming session last night and came up with the following idea for inlaying the ship's wheel.
First, rout a circle for the outer rim of the wheel using reible's (SCJ) small circle jig (say 2-1/8" or 55mm dia.) and using a 1/4" straight bit. Then make a sled which will let me slide the router between stops to cut the 8 spoke recesses (about 1/8" - 3mm wide) - rotating the sled around the centre point of the wheel to line up with each spoke centre line and cutting through the routed rim circle to form the handle at the end of each spoke. Finally, use a Forstner (1/2") bit to cut the recess for the hub.
I can then make the inlays using the SCJ to cut the wheel rim outer diameter and remove the centre with an appropriately sized Forstner bit. The spokes & handles can be simple straight (parallel) strips cut on the band saw. The hub insert can be cut with a 1/2" plug cutter. As Bj said, cut the inlays deeper than the recesses and sand flat.
Comments?

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Pete
I've cut it twice and it's still too short! But only at one end.

template tom

Geordie
Sounds a great idea I hope you will record all the stages you went through as we would all like to see the results. One thing about starting something new it gets our brain ticking over. I would be more than interested to learn a new technique.
Tom

template tom

Joe
I would do that quite a number of times. I suppose you mean a sleeve (shim)added to the guide.
Indeed I have modified a 30mm guide to give me the following sizes 50mm 60mm 70mm 80mm 90mm 100mm and enclosed 35mm.
Not sure that I would use a 'washer' as such in fear that it may come off certainly several washers would have to be glued together as you suggested.
When I last visited Harry he had done just that as he did not have the 22mm guide he modified a 16mm. This was to do the carving and the requested guides were 22mm and 16mm
Tom

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nzgeordie

Tom. I'm relieved there are no glaring faults in what I proposed. I'll photo each stage and post the results.

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Pete
I've cut it twice and it's still too short! But only at one end.

harrysin

Joe, further to Tom's post I shall add my two cents worth! I have sleeved many guides and even a cutter bearing when the size that I required was not a stock item. Never pass up a chance to buy a bargain priced guide they can be sleeved at a later time to suit a particular project, like Tom's carving which called for an 18mm and a 22mm guide, now whilst I could have made changes to the design and used the closest sizes in my collection, I chose to sleeve a 3/4" for the 22m
and a 16mm which I had two off for the 18mm. all of you who don't have metalworking facilities had better quickly make friends with someone who has! Harry

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template tom

I see Bob has edited his previous posting to add the brass guide bushing that is available for inserting inlays simply by adding a bush to the first guide a great idea.
But still my idea of the 30mm and the 10mm and the 16mm with a 4mm does exactly the same thing.
Bob can I just make a suggestion that you add the additional information in sequence so that all can follow
Tom

template tom

Geordie
I was not saying there was not any glaring faults I was suggesting that it was great to try with what you have. You will be the only one to tell us if it worked or not.
Geordie keep trying it is great fun to find new ideas as to how the roter can be used. I have great admiration to those who are willing to try something new. Who knows it may work. Just keep trying.
Just as a matter of interest are you really a 'Geordie' as we could have been neighbours as I spent my last six years in Jedburgh before coming to Australia
Tom