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bobj3

Hi John

Are you sure ?, most standard hinges are 1/4-inch radius butts .

Because the jig is setup to use the sandard template and the 1/2" bit you will need to play with other bits to get what you want..
You could try a 3/4" mortising bit that may do the job but will need to check out the "out cut" so the butt is just right, the screws don't hold the weight the mortis pockets do most of the work... you may just want to use a hand carving chisel to get the corners just the way you want them to be.

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Woodnut65

Hi John: If you use a larger guide you will end up with a smaller mortice. However, I would think that you could still get a parts for the old morticeing jig to allow for the 5/8ths hinge from PC. As an alternative PC sells a jig that is made of a plastic material that will handle all of the corner radius types. I had to do some doors and I picked one up at HD for about 24.00. It comes with a bit with a bearing on it, it's a steel bit, and a cheap one at that. I had to buy the recommended bit that PC sells which is carbide.That bit cost abt 30USD. That's two ways you could go to get it done. Hope this helps. Woodnut65

gregW

John,

I just finished replacing the interior doors in my house using the same size hinges as you are. I used a 3/4" (.750) OD guide bushing and a 1/2" mortising bit with a simple homemade template to mortise all the hinges.

To make the template I just traced the outline of the hinge on a piece of mdf and then offset that trace line by 1/8" (.125) all the way around the perimeter of the hinge to account for the guide bushing to cutter offset and then I cut along the offset line with a jig saw. I was installing new doors in the old existing jambs so I just measured the depth of the hinge mortises from the door face in the old doors and added the 1/8" offset. I used this measurement to install a fence made from a scrap piece of 1x2 pine to the mdf template. I made the fence long enough to extend a couple of inches from each end of the template to allow me to clamp the jig to the door.

To use the jig I just transfered the hinge locations from the old doors to the new doors and then used a piece of 1/8" stock to position the cutout in the template to the layout lines and clamped it in place, set the cutter depth to the hinge thickness and cut it out. You should try the template out on a piece of scrap or one of the old doors first to make sure you get a good fit. The mdf is easy to work with so if you need to make adjustments you can just use a file or sandpaper.

Greg

johnt

Thanks for the input ,guys. I think I may need to do what a couple of you suggest which is to use a different template. This one does not adjust other than for larger hinges. It is the kind that telescopes to the entire length of the door and allows you to cut all the mortises without resetting.
Thanks so much for all the help. I'll let you know how things progress.
John

gregW

John,

Here's a sketch of the jig I made for the hinge mortises. It only took about 20 minutes to make the jig and the new mortises came out as good or better than the old ones...and the best part was it didn't cost me anything

**You can use any cutter/guide bushing combination that produces a 1/8" offset with this jig. For example, I used a 3/4" bushing with a 1/2" cutter, but it would also work with a 1" bushing & 3/4"cutter, a 5/8" bushing & 3/8" cutter, a 1/2" bushing & 1/4" cutter and so on....

Greg

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johnt

Well, I called porter cable.. they were quite helpful actually. They gave me a couple options. They sell the guide bushing and cutter I needed but the cost was about $75.
They also have a plastic template sold through Home depot that comes with a cutter for about $20. I bought the plastic template and it works very well.
Then when I got home I saw Gregs post with the diagram of his jig.... oh well at least I cutting mortises.
Thanks again guys.
John

AxlMyk

Gee willikers Greg.. You should have been a bit quicker with your response..

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gregW

hey, what can I say...I tried to save him 20 bucks

I really enjoy making the jigs for a project, mainly because I'm a little dense and it forces me to think and understand the process a little better.

I'm glad you found a solution John, good luck with your door project!

Greg