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Making your own sub base plate

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76K views 84 replies 35 participants last post by  BrianS  
#1 ·
Yesterday forum member BrianS and I built a couple of replacement sub base plates for his Craftsman router so it could use PC style guide bushings. The material used was an old plastic sign. Here is the process we followed:
Remove the sub base plate from the router and apply double sided carpet tape. Press it firmly on the material and rough cut to shape with a band saw. Using a pattern bit we cut the final outside shape. The next step was to drill the mounting holes. We used the large diameter hole saw to drill the recess just deep enough for the guide bushing to sit flush with the surface, then the smaller hole saw for the through hole. There is a small amount of material left around the through hole and we used a Forstner bit to clean this up. While you can use Forstner bits instead of hole saws I feel it is easier to align the holes using the pilot bit of the hole saws and this is critical for a good fit. Separate the sub base from your original sub base and countersink the mounting screw holes using a Forstner bit. Since this countersunk area is non critical we used a 1/2" bit as opposed to the factory 7/16" size. (If your router uses flat head screws then use a countersinking bit.)
The sizes of the center holes vary between PC style and the Router Worksop style from Oak Park. The large hole saw will be the overall OD and the small hole saw will be the through hole size for your bushings.
 

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#3 ·
Mike,

I like the idea of using the hole saw instead of the forstner bit, because of the advantage of the pilot hole bit. My problem is that the hole saws I have are for door locks and are way off size. Where did you obtain the 1-3/16" and 1-3/8" hole saws? I just wish some manufacturer (are you listning PC?) would make those size router bits and then cutting the holes would be a snap. My 2 bits worth (inflation you know).

Joe Z.
 
B
#4 · (Edited)
Hi Joe

Here's a set for 8.oo dollars and it has the sizes you need, I use them all the time and they work great...
Just clamp the stock to the drill base table, drill a 1/8" hole then use the 1 3/8" bit then the 1 3/16" bit to drill the center hole out all the way..it's a very fast way and it works every time...and I'm sure once you do it a time or two it will be the last time you buy any base plates for the router or the router table..

Just a note,,, a square sub base plates are the best....then they can be used in many more ways, for a strait edge,to hold bearings on the corners for M & T sloting, etc.


http://cgi.ebay.com/5-pc-Set-of-For...emZ130246973643QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50383QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
 

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#6 · (Edited)
Hi Joe

The Hole saws are the hard way to do it :). it can cut the 1 3/16" hole easy but when it comes to the 1 3/8 hole (recess hole it can't do it right,) it must be flat and true to hold the brass guide just right..

I also use a fly cutter that works well but a good set of forstner bits is the way to get the job done right plus you can make your own base plates to hold the big guides ( 1 1/2" x 1 3/4" ) Oak-Park/Lee Valley type and they do come in handy when you need to use a bigger bit ,like a 1" for just one of many... :)

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=41778&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=BG-BGST-&product=BG034
http://grizzly.com/products/Round-Fly-Cutter-Set-3-pc-/H7537

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B
#8 ·
You'er Welcome Joe

I have made so many base plates I have lost track of how many...
I think it's one every week for the pass 2 years or so.. :) I now want to make one more now for the new router I just got, so I can drop it in one of the router tables>>>> ..

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#9 ·
For some reason my tagging of new postings is not working right and I missed this. Joe, I have a Lenox set of hole saws and most sizes are available from HD or Lowes. The advantage of using the hole saw is you chuck the 1/4" bit and plunge for a perfect center. Following with the hole saws is easy with this pilot hole. The larger saw is used first for the part way through cut and the through cut with the smaller saw cleans out the hole.
 
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#80 ·
MIke,
New to the forum and was just reading your post on the router base. For the life of me, I can't figure out how you could use a hole saw to cut a flat bottom hole (that would be needed for the bushing to sit on). A forstner bit would obviously do this but I agree on your centering reasoning of using a pilot drill with a hole saw. But a hole saw would only cut a groove the width of the saw teeth and obviously not cut out a flat bottom hole for the bushing to sit on. I understand about the through hole (1 3/16"), that makes sense but the 1 3/8" hole using a hole saw just doesn't compute for me to give the needed flat bottom lip. Can you please help me understand. I watched your video but it was only of still pictures and not of the actual drilling.

Jeff (9ninjas)
 
#10 ·
Thanks Mike,

You have saved me some dollars......

I will still go to Carba-Tec (Sydney) this weekend to get the bushing set.

(and I will have to check the sizes of my hole saws (probably metric :(


James
 
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#11 ·
I have been making some router bases.

One thing I noticed repeatedly was the error caused by slippage of the double sided tape. I got the tape from the hardware store. It appears to hold ok, but slid out of possition when actually doing the operation.

All bases have screw holes. So what I did was put some screws and bolts through the
pattern and the blank with some bits of folded sandpaper in the sandwich. Having the screws ride above the surface was not a problem. *But* I am using a sacrificial work surface of masonite with zero clearance for the bit plus a fence with little of the bit exposed.

This was only way I solved the problem after having more than one bad attempt with tape only.

Caution should always be used in these procedures.
 
L
#12 · (Edited)
I have to add this note made several days later:


After a few attempts at base duplication which pulled the tape out of position I looked more closely at the image above. The tape in the image does not intersect with the bit path. My tape placement was not carefully done.

Still don't know if the tape placement will solve the problem of tape sliding. What I did to eliminate the problem without wasting more material was to screw and bolt through the holes of the template and blank and then do the shaping on a zero clearance sacrificial masonite work surface. Also had the fence up with a bit guard and waste extractor (homemade vacuum cleaner setup).

Wear eye protection and execute carefully as always.
 
B
#14 ·
Hi sofasurfer

Hot glue and tape suck :( they will both let it move just a little bit and that you do not want.

Almost all base plates come with mounting holes, use them to make a new plate, 3 or 4 screws the norm, set the old base plate on the stock/plastic and drill the holes out put in some flat head screws with washers and nuts..then you are set to make a new base plate true and dead on..to drill out the center hole chuck up a 1 3/16" in the drill press with the old plate and new plate as one, line up the bit with the center hole clamp it down to the top and drill out the hole, if you want a pocket for the brass guides remove the old plate and chuck up a 1 3/8" bit in the drill press and drill it down 1/8" deep.. don't forget you have a front side and a bottom side..to the plate..the key is to use the 1 3/16" bit to line it up in the drill press.. :)


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S
#15 ·
That actually did occur to me but everybody says tape, so...
Ok, I'll do the bolt thing.
Right now I'm practicing drilling the center hole. I drilled one and it is nice but its the wrong size. I don't have forstners that big so I am using one of those monsters in the pic.
So far its is a pain getting it sized and getting the outer cutters evenly spaced. Don't know if I can manage it or not.
Will a spade bit work? I kinda think so. I'll go out and try it. I don't have one that size but at least I can afford one of those.
 

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#17 · (Edited)
Hi

The forstner bits are the way to go, you can find them all over the place for about 20.oo bucks (ebay) 1/4" to 2 1/8"..
The cutter you posted is good for the ruff cut outs and big holes but that's about it..I must have 5 or 6 of that type..
You can also pickup a hole saw set at the right price to cut out holes.
Harbor Freight Tools
but they don't cut real clean the norm..

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/forset1.htm

http://cgi.ebay.com/DRILL-BIT-SET-1..._W0QQitemZ190371043414QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2c52ff9856
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-16-Pc-Forst..._W0QQitemZ330402565918QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4ced870f1e

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p4634.m38.l1313&_nkw=forstner+bit&_sacat=See-All-Categories
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#16 ·
hi sofasurfer,

i cant remember where youre from, but you can get the forstner bits from peachtree for 7 or 8 bucks each. there is not anything that will compare with them for drilling out baseplates.
 
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#18 ·
I know that Levon, about the good work they do. I have a set that goes up to 1 inch. They are awesome. Believe me, if I could I would go buy a set.
I just drilled through the acrylic with a paddle bit. Very easy.
I need to file a 1-1/4 inch bit down to 1-3/16 inch and the bigger 1-3/8 inch will need to be dremiled out a couple tousanths, from what I can tell. And the pilot blade in the centers need to be filed to the same size and the outside cutters need to be filed off on the largest bit.
I think I'm on to something. We shall see.
 
#25 ·
Bad communication on my part. I'm trying to bookmark this specific thread, not flag it for other responses. In the next six months I'm going to need this information, but not right now. I expect the thread will die out soon and I want to make sure I can get back to it. I've run into this before and even my browser bookmarks get sooooo plugged up that I can't find anything again. I was hoping that somewhere in my forum account was a place that I could inventory important (to me) threads, like part of my private messaging space or something.

Thanks for the try anyhow.
 
R
#29 ·
Router base plate alignment

I have a 35 yr old Craftsman and a 22 yr old Makita plunge router. I have always been disappointed in the misalignment between the stock bases, bushings and router bits.

Over the years I have had to replace base plates numerous times. My favorite material is 1/4"' Lexan which accommodates PC style bushings thicknesses.

The trick I use is to rough cut the base plate ~1/4" larger OD that the router, drill a 1/4" or 1/2" hole in the center depending on the collet size. I insert a piece of drill rod or the shank of a router bit into the collet, I then set the roughed out base plate on drill rod. I mark a set of match lines on the edge from the base to the router allow future alignment of the base then center punch the holes for the base plate screws.

I use the same drill rod in the drill press vise as a center point to drill the screw holes and to sand the outside OD down. I use pan head phillips or button head allen screws instead of filister head which requires recessing the plate with an appropriate diamater forstner or router bit.

Using a 1/4" four flute milling or router bit in the drill press I cut the recess for the PC bushing by turning the plate on the drill rod center. I use a 1 3/16" hole saw to finish the bushing hole.

By using the drill rod center to transfer all the points I am usually within 1/64" of center. By enlarging the mounting screw holes slightly I can shift the base plate to true center. The match lines help with the alignment.

I buy Lexan from US Plastics or McMaster Carr.
 
#30 ·
To build a base just centered, I turn them directly on the router with a second router.
Ex:
I begin by setting a plate securely in the holes for that. With a bit mounted right on the router, I pierce the plate. I replace the bit by a rod of the stem collar diameter (for you 1 / 4 "or 1 / 2")
With a second router mounted on a compass whose stem is pierced with a hole the same diameter as the rod mounted on the first router, I mill the outside diameter and the center.
This way, everything is absolutely centered,
 

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#31 ·
I owe a comment in here since I tried the double sided tape technique again. It worked better this time.

--> It's important to not have the tape out to the exposed edges. That's where the tape will catch and bind and throw things out of register. That was my mistake.

I also did a little gentle clamping to make sure the blank and the patterns where in good contact.
 
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