duckarrowtypes

I'd like to make a template for a special kind of box that I make. (http://www.shinyphotos.com/images/ready_to_ship.jpg)

A case is two identical halves. Each half is sized thus:
4.5 x 5.5" outside dimension
4.25 x 5.25" inside recess/pocket/cavity that's about 1/4" deep

So the recess/pocket/cavity to hold the photograph would be hogged out with a simple rectangular template but I need to do the outside too.

The rails or frame are 1/8" thick. The entire thing is made out of 1/2" ply.

I'd like to make a template but I'm not sure what the best way is to cut out the outside of the box once I've finished hogging out the inside.

Any ideas?

edit: here's a picture (ignore the hinge for now) showing more detail about the "rails": http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1044/...ca752a9d_o.jpg

Thanks!
Jonathan

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bobj3

Hi Jonathan


The templates will be easy to make but I would not suggest plywood I would suggest some hardwood for the box, cut the out side right on the button for the top and the bottom and then just hog out the center with a bottom cutting bit/pattern type bit..

This would be a good job for the ski jig setup and the very small hinges..(spade type)

If you want more info just ask and I will post some pictures..

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Bj

duckarrowtypes

Thanks, Bobj. I was worried that solid wood would warp because the cuts are so thin. Don't you think? I'll be wrapping these cases in various materials like leather and wood veneer so I also like the price of plywood!

So you're saying to just cut the outside using a tablesaw instead of trying to route it? I was hoping to shape the outside of the box with a little rounding of two of the corners...

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Modern Daguerreotypes: original pieces or custom made from your images. shinyphotos.com

duckarrowtypes

Here are the pictures of the cases that I'm trying to make. These were cut on the CNC but I'd like to make a jig to cut them with my handheld router.

http://www.shinyphotos.com/pics/cnc_case1.jpg
http://www.shinyphotos.com/pics/cnc_case2.jpg

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Modern Daguerreotypes: original pieces or custom made from your images. shinyphotos.com

bobj3

Hi Jonathan

It can but this is when you need to select the best wood you can find..

Plywood just can't hold a thin edge, it will snap off in a heart beat,,,just the way it's made... I know you said you want the edge to be 1/8" I would suggest 1/4" thick, you will need to take great care when hogging out he center, the router bit will put a great deal of force on the edge, I think I would use a 3/4" wall then cut the top and bottom on the table saw but stick with a 1/4" thick wall...you need a place for the hinges to hold on.

If you tape them up with masking tape you will get them to match each other..the same thing would be true for the outside of the box after the cut off job..just do the a pair of sides then retape...so they match out..

The lid below is less than 1/8" thick, it's made with Walnut..
The Chev.board is cut to 1/4" thick in most of the cut outs..

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Bj

harrysin

Hi stranger, I think that an old thread of mine might be just what you're looking for. Here is the link:

http://www.routerforums.com/41214-post1.html

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Harry

bobj3

HI Harry

It's about time you jumped on this post, I have been waiting for you..

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Inlays
http://www.rockler.com/search_result...x=0&submit.y=0

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Bj

duckarrowtypes

Aha! Brilliant! Now I think I'll go take out a mortgage to buy a 1/2" carbide spiral upcut bit!

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Modern Daguerreotypes: original pieces or custom made from your images. shinyphotos.com

harrysin

A spiral cutter really isn't necessary, I only use them for box joints and dowels. For square corners I use a normal straight cutter and for rounded corners a dish-cutter.

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Harry

duckarrowtypes

Even for plunging? I worried that plunging a 1/2" straight bit would be a little too troublesome.

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Modern Daguerreotypes: original pieces or custom made from your images. shinyphotos.com