JohnnyP

Hi everyone,

Glad to be a part of this forum. I hope to learn a lot from everyone. I have been wood working for a few years as a hobby and have not had a great deal of continuous time whenever working on a project. As a result whatever I've done has taken me a great deal of time to complete.

But as I have just "semi-retired" (meaning I'll work about 3 days a week beginning in Sept.) I should have more time.

I own a 3 HP Ryobi router mounted in a router table and a 1 1/2 HP Bosch I use for hand held work. But I'm really a neophyte (or newbie) when it comes to routers. The 3 HP one is scary! real powerful and noisy. But I've managed to make some raised panels using a vertical panel raising bit., but my results aren't what I'd like. I think I already found part of the answer right here on your site thanks to Bobj3's description of a jig that helps guide the work piece past the bit. i'll need to make that jig and the sub fence that the pictures show. Can you tell me what dimensions the jigs are? Or I'll just maybe eyeball it from the photos.

Thanks for all your help. I look forward to being a part of this forum.

John

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bobj3

Hi John

You tell me what jig you are talking about and I will be glad to get the dimensions for it... (the url link will do it, just type it in your post...

I think you are talking about this one below
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...uick-easy.html
If so, just tell me to get the dimensions for it and I will

I will put in a note for now about this one ,,
The real key to making panels with the Ver.bits it to close the hole behind the bit,, you don't need to use the same type of fence I use ( T & G ) it can just be some MDF stock the has the bit shape cut into the fence just like the bit you are using, this will at a chip breaker and give the stock a place to ride on ...the sub fence ( the one in front of the other) is just clamp to the table top and it keeps the stock running true when you pass it by the bit.

You need to make push block that will move the stock/panel by the bit but keep your finger out of the way, it must go all the way down to the table top when it's on the sub fence but ride on the sub fence and not the main fence.

The when once you have both fences set drop the stock in the slot and move it slow by the bit, do the end grain 1st then work your way around the board.

The dimensions can be anything you want them to be just as long as they work on your router table ,, the sub fence one I use is about 3 1/2" tall and the main fence is about 4 1/2" tall..

Once your done with the jig keep in on hand it can be used for many router jobs that call for the board to be on edge when you use the router table..

It's almost as jood as a Horz. router table but will cost you less to make it..



Routers can be scary here's a work around,,, turn the speed down on the router , most bits don't need to run at full speed, most will do the job at the lowest speed, I know because I do it that way also...

Here's link to s speed control that should work on your router if the one you have does'nt have one built in...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43060


John ,, once you get your panels done and you want to play with the new jig you just made, chuck up a bit that would be used in the normal way but this time run the board by on it's end,,,(edge) you can have some real fun making your own patterns by just using the bit in a diff. way...

like the cove bit for just one of many





Bj

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Joe Lyddon

Dr.Zook

Hey John, we're glad you are a part of this forum. Welcome. This is a great place to learn and the membership are willing to help you. See, Bj is more than willing to help. Put him to work.

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Dave
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In woodworking there is no scrap, only firewood.

bobj3

Hi Dave

Hey ,,,,, Dave I'm still waiting for your band saw box ...I'm pushing you I know but I want to put you to work also...


Bj

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JohnnyP

Hi BJ,

Thanks for getting back to me. Yes that is exactly the one I am talking about. And thanks for the great advice. I see what you mean about the bit shape cut into the fence. The dimensions for your push block would be great, if you would give them to me. I can't wait to try it. I should cut the end grains first then do the edges...correct?, or do i cut the first end grain and then go around the whole panel?

bobj3

Hi John
and you'er Welcome anytime I can help just ask

Here's some snapshots that should do the trick

As you can see I used some scrap 2 x 4 stock and some 3/4" MDF stock
The height is set by how tall your sub fence is....

" I should cut the end grains first then do the edges...correct?" = yes,you'er right on the button


Bj

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challagan

Welcome Johnny to the router forums. Yes our Bobj is quite the jig and fixture builder! We are lucky to have him around here!

Corey

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harrysin

No one here will disagree that Bj is a very clever guy BUT, I'm surprised and disappointed to see that he still smokes, does he want to end up having a heart attach like I had back in 1982?

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Harry

challagan

I don't think Bj smokes... I am the dumby that still smokes

Corey

P.S. that reminds me of a joke... guy asks another guy... hey.. do you smoke after sex?

Other guy says.. I don't know, I haven't ever looked!

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