making and accurate template for an oval hand mirror - Router Forums
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-07-2009, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Default Making an accurate template for an oval hand mirror

I'm going to try to make a reasonable facsimile of an oval hand mirror.
I purchased a mirror and would like to inset it into the body of the mirror base and end up with a decent profile.

It's making the template that has me guessing right now.


Any tips you folks could give me?


Bob

The true secret of giving advice is, after you have honestly given it, to be perfectly indifferent whether it is taken or not, and never persist in trying to set people right."

Last edited by bob oswin; 01-19-2009 at 06:42 AM.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-07-2009, 06:16 PM
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Hi Bob

This would be a good job for the inlay kit the outside profile should be a easy one

see below

http://www.routerworkshop.com/inlays112.html
http://www.routerworkshop.com/revinlay.html

=========
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob oswin View Post
I'm going to try to make a reasonable facsimile of an oval hand mirror.
I purchased a mirror and would like to inset it into the body of the mirror base and end up with a decent profile.

It's making the template that has me guessing right now.


Any tips you folks could give me?


Bob

"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-07-2009, 06:47 PM
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http://www.uwgb.edu/DutchS/MATHALGO/Ellipses.HTM

Just Google for "draw an ellipse"

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Fellas, I'll give both a try .
The problem stems from having to rout out the inside of the mirror body and still leave a unifrom reveal around the mirror.
I can handle rounding over the outside of the oval but forsee difficulty getting a clean edge next to the mirror itself.
It's easy with a round one as you just turn it on a lathe.

Bob

The true secret of giving advice is, after you have honestly given it, to be perfectly indifferent whether it is taken or not, and never persist in trying to set people right."

Last edited by bob oswin; 01-08-2009 at 01:49 PM.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob oswin View Post
I'm going to try to make a reasonable facsimile of an oval hand mirror.
I purchased a mirror and would like to inset it into the body of the mirror base and end up with a decent profile.

It's making the template that has me guessing right now.


Any tips you folks could give me?


Bob
Bob
You have the mirror what is the major and minor axis and What template guides do you have. Get back to me and I may have the solution to your problem.
Tom
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Bob
You have the mirror what is the major and minor axis and What template guides do you have. Get back to me and I may have the solution to your problem.
Tom
Hi Tom:

The major axis is 6" and the minor is 4".
I have a pretty full set of guides and can get a extra one if you suggest something I don't have.

Cheers
Bob

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 10:55 AM
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Hi Bob

Just one more way to get the job done with a scroll saw
scroll down the web page and you will see it..

http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.co...1_archive.html

====
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Mirror.jpg (11.6 KB, 21 views)

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Last edited by bobj3; 01-08-2009 at 10:58 AM.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob oswin View Post
Hi Tom:

The major axis is 6" and the minor is 4".
I have a pretty full set of guides and can get a extra one if you suggest something I don't have.

Cheers
Bob
Hi Bob

I have drawn the project and have worked out the various points that need to be covered.

(a) The size of the template cut-out to produce the rebate for the mirror.
(b) The size of the templates recommended
(c) The cutters required

I would suggest the method I would use and that is to make two identical templates and sandwich the material between them. The material should be held secure in the 'Jig Holder' I have been talking about for some time. One of the templates can also be used as the Jig to hold the material. How you are going to hold it secure will be up to you. Keeping it larger than required would do as that is what I would do.
The size of the elliptical cut out should be 6.59" major axis and 4.54" minor axis. (This could be made slightly larger both ways again this will depend on what cutters you are using)

With a fine beading cutter I would rout into the face of the material this would eventually be the beading on the inside of the frame.

I would then flip over the complete set-up and then with a straight cutter rout the rebate for the mirror stopping at the beading put in from the other side. All of the operations will depend on what template guides you are to use. The drawing shows 1.18" using the beading cutter and .84" using the cutter for the rebate which shows .24" though it could be slightly larger.

I started drawing this using imperial measurements but I quickly changed to metric the simply got the program to convert to imperial. Now I am convinced why the template guide method is not popular in the USA.

At this atage Bob i have not gone into the method I would use to rout the external shape of the frame and putting on a moulding I will wait to see if you wish to proceed with what I have put up now. I have made such frames and I have included pics of the results. Maybe others will come up with a better method. At least what I have suggested does work as I have produced the goods before and I would not attempt to suggest a method if I had never had success with it.

I await you comments

Tom

Last edited by template tom; 04-18-2009 at 11:10 PM.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 10:18 PM
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Tom just a thought. He purchased an oval mirror. But what if it is not a true oval. The mid points he gave are what they are, but it is possible his mirrors actual curve is different(mathematically incorrect).

Just a thought.

I think he better do a trace and make sure his oval mirror is mathematically correct because your calculations will be correct.

I actually ran into this not to long ago and the oval given to me was cocked or crooked, but you could not tell with the eyes at least I could not. Until I cut the perfect oval in ply did I realize it. What was given me was 1/4" off in the 1st and 3rd quadrants from the 2nd and 4th quadrants, if that makes sense to you.

Tom you are a great guy doing this leg work for him!

Last edited by dovetail_65; 01-08-2009 at 10:23 PM.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by nickao65 View Post
Tom just a thought. He purchased an oval mirror. But what if it is not a true oval. The mid points he gave are what they are, but it is possible his mirrors actual curve is different(mathematically incorrect).

Just a thought.

I think he better do a trace and make sure his oval mirror is mathematically correct because your calculations will be correct.

I actually ran into this not to long ago and the oval given to me was cocked or crooked, but you could not tell with the eyes at least I could not. Until I cut the perfect oval in ply did I realize it. What was given me was 1/4" off in the 1st and 3rd quadrants from the 2nd and 4th quadrants, if that makes sense to you.

Tom you are a great guy doing this leg work for him!
You are quite correct Nik it has also happened to me also on one occassion this is where it is an advantage if they submit drawings or pics when submitting a posting. We will have to wait and see. The dimensions are what was transferred from my metric drawing to imperial measurement. This is something I am glad I do not have to work in or I would not be able to produce what I do with the router.
Thanks for your comments I am not sure what I have submitted will be of any assistance to Bob.

Tom
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