Threaded Bushes

**bobj3** · 05-25-2009, 10:13 PM

Hi GBM

You can use the tools below but the drill press will still have a hard time putting them in,,the tap would help but it's just one more job to do and ..the knife threads are made to be self taping on the insert.

====

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBM

Ok.. perhaps they need to be drilled and then tapped before inserting ? Is a tap matching those threads available ? If not then perhaps one of those fittings could be cut to make it into a tap of the proper thread gauge.... ?
Also, there are torque multipliers / speed reducers which can be chucked into a 'puny' drillpress if needed... with the added benefit of having a reverse on them.. which I assume would be needed to speed things up...

GBM · 05-26-2009, 07:41 AM

Heck, I don't care how many operations HE has to do... I am just trying to solve the physics problems.....LOLOL

istracpsboss · 05-26-2009, 08:49 AM

Hi guys

Thanks a lot for that. I'm glad I asked! I haven't seen Harry's hex heads here. Ours are all slotted ends and they soon b****r up when you try to do it. I should have thought of threaded rod and locknuts. It's a good engineering solution and much more positive. I was really surprised to find the thread had already run to two pages when I logged on today. Thanks a lot Bob for all the pics. The one thing I had worked out was the need for countersinking, to eliminate the tendency to raise the surrounding host material.

Thanks again! This forum is brilliant!

Cheers

Peter

GBM · 05-26-2009, 07:38 PM

Bob, I like that last picture better..... just does not seem right to use the compression with the interior threads and the top of the insert to a FLAT nut bottom when those slots are there .... perhaps the edges of the drivers which go into those slots need to be ground from the outside to make sure they do not dig up any wood.... and the idea of chucking the driver into a tweaked 90 degree drill press appeals to me.
Does that particular 3-1 driver have a reverse built in ? My drill press does not reverse.

**bobj3** · 05-26-2009, 08:03 PM

Hi GBM

The hex nuts and hex head bolt works so much better than the fac.driver, the fac.one likes to dig up the wood on the edges,,,and makes it nasty to clean up..the nuts I use are like jam nut set up and the one on the bottom and been ground down to a real angle so it will not rip up the stock when it sets the insert in place...

The 3-1 driver has no reverse built in ,but I have rewired the motor on the old Jet drill press with a forward and reverse switch that I use for taping when needed .

I reworked the drill press many years ago to down to 25 rpm.( spindel speed ) with the belt setup..by using 3 step pulleys under the head cover .

========

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBM

Bob, I like that last picture better..... just does not seem right to use the compression with the interior threads and the top of the insert to a FLAT nut bottom when those slots are there .... perhaps the edges of the drivers which go into those slots need to be ground from the outside to make sure they do not dig up any wood.... and the idea of chucking the driver into a tweaked 90 degree drill press appeals to me.
Does that particular 3-1 driver have a reverse built in ? My drill press does not reverse.

Lemuzz · 05-26-2009, 11:39 PM

A company I know used used large quantities of these inserts. they had a threaded rod and locknut in their cordless drill.They had a veeblock about 4"long to keep the threadded rod straight and never had a problem.

Noob · 05-31-2009, 05:15 PM

This question has been answered already, but I found a shot that better explained the latter half of post #2.

levon · 05-31-2009, 05:32 PM

it seems lots easier to understand BobJ's way.

Noob · 05-31-2009, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by levon

it seems lots easier to understand BobJ's way.

To each his own, no biggie. I like this one better because it has a bigger opening which gives me a better view. I didn't put any of the springs in it like the PDF though.

levon · 05-31-2009, 06:13 PM

just my humble opinion, the solid blocks with no cutouts seems more foolproof. and so simple and i know it works good.

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