fordcraftsmanstudios

I do a lot of laser cutting for manufacturers and have begun to make stencils and assorted other things for retail.

I'm always using scrap acrylic to make router templates for projects of mine. I made a template about a year ago for cutting slots in frames and decided to put one of them on ebay a couple of months ago. I have since sold several.

I was thinking about making more templates for sale and wanted to hit up the router using community to see what would be of interest. I have made all kinds of things for myself but they are usually very specific to a project.

I also wanted to get everybody's input on the routing methods preferred. I have this addiction to spiral cutting bits so I usually use a 1/4" bit with a 3/8" collar. My guides tend to be 1/16" wider than necessary all the way around to accomodate the collar. What is your preference...bearing guide or a collar?

I appreciate your input and guidance.

David

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kp91

What type of laser are you using? I asked the epilog guy at one of the trade shows and he was unsure how clean of an edge 1/4 in thru cuts would leave. What other materials have you tried cutting templates out of?

I prefer to use guide bushings for templates that are going to be used over and over. I've had too many times when using a bearing guided pattern bit that I have damaged the template. It is much harder to do that with a guide bushing.

Depending on what I'm doing, I use different size combinations of guides and bits. For edge work, I usually use a 1/2 in bit and a 1 in guide. This makes calculating offsets pretty easy.

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Doug
1 John 1:9

karincorbin

I prefer the bearing bit for small scaled pieces. It saves the step of centering and aligning a collar. On a small piece even a thousandth of an inch off center is an issue.

karincorbin

I also use an Epilog laser to make jigs. It does not produce a completely smooth edge, there are tiny hills and valleys.

mantelmaker

I have used the Jasada 3D system to carve designs into solid wood. The pattern is flipped and rotated a total of 4 times to mirror the image. After a couple of uses, I seem to need to repair the template. The templates are 3/4 inch MDF and with a beveled guide bearing they just don't hold there shape. Just wondering if acrylic would work better. Bob

template tom

Try 12mm MDF laminated both sides
Tom

fordcraftsmanstudios

Doug,

I use a Universal Laser and have very good results. The key is to use plenty of power and a high pulse rate. If you look at the cut edge, it's extremely smooth. I cut lots of router templates and cutting templates for quilters.

I have also cut templates from wood but the acrylic is by far the best material for laser cutting templates.

When I was looking at buying my laser, I talked to just about every manufacturer out there including the Epilog guys. One of their guys who does a lot of trade shows was really lacking in knowledge so I would take it with a grain of salt. The Epilog lasers are very capable and I cut 1/4" acrylic with one when I was testing and it worked just fine. I kept catching their sales guy in errors on things he said and he just seemed to be making things up, too.

I almost always use a collar for my templates. I am a big fan of 1/4" spiral cutting bits with a 3/8" collar. Bearings can be too iffy and sure can screw things up when you lose a bearing. Collars never wear out! Of course, if it's small detailed work then you may need to go smaller. I have made several templates out of 1/8" acrylic for inlay work around the inlay collar/bit kit Rockler sells.

David

fordcraftsmanstudios

Yep, the acrylic would work a lot better. I build a lot of frames from quarter sawn white oak and cut slots in the back. I made a template for cutting the slots and have cut hundreds of slots with the same template.

I started selling this template on eBay and have sold lots of them. One of my customers started using it in his framing shop and has since bought several more so everybody in the shop will have their own (they started fighting over the first one).

It's extremely hard material and wears well. It's the same stuff that they make bulletproof glass out of (Plexiglas is the name most people probably know).

David

reible

Hi,
How about a little fyi....... "bullet proof glass" is as defined:

"Different manufacturers make different variations of bullet-resistant glass, but it is basically made by layering a polycarbonate material between pieces of ordinary glass in a process called lamination. This process creates a glass-like material that is thicker than normal glass. Polycarbonate is a tough transparent plastic -- often known by the brand name Lexan, Tuffak or Cyrolon. Bullet-resistant glass is between 7 millimeters and 75 millimeters in thickness. A bullet fired at a sheet of bullet-resistant glass will pierce the outside layer of the glass, but the layered polycarbonate-glass material is able to absorb the bullet's energy and stop it before it exits the final layer."

Now Polycaronate is not the same material as Plexiglas which is an acrylic. You can get "impact modified grades" of acrylic but you can also get grades that if dropped will break....... a matter of material selection.

If you want some general information on plastic sheet good check out:
www.rplastics.com
or for some trade names:
www.tdlplastics.com/products.htm

Ed

bobj3

Hi David

Nice looking template and at a good price.
I use the brass guide when every I can..

http://cgi.ebay.com/Slot-Cutting-Rou...QQcmdZViewItem

Bj

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