Spacemanspiff

I based it on the jig that I am sure I saw from Bob and Rick (so thanks for the idea!!) and I added a backer board that slides along the spacer fence to keep everything square and aligned;
http://www.woodworkersweb.com/module...oint_jig_1.jpg
http://www.woodworkersweb.com/module...oint_jig_2.jpg
http://www.woodworkersweb.com/module...end_result.jpg
The only thing is there is a bit of chip out on the back sides but I think that is because I am using an old cheap and throw away bit.

Apart from that I am really happy with the results!!

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jdoolitt

So the rail acts as an indexing pin? Is the jig in the one picture on backwards, hiding a through-cut by the bit? Sorry, I am probably the only person who is missing this - but can you show a picture with one of the pieces you are making box joints on - in action on this sled?

Thanks! It's a great idea - and something (once someone dumbs it down for me), I'd like to try.

reible

OK I'm confused as well. I see the runner and a slot in the backer board that slides but I don't see where the bit runs and how you index to the next cut? Could you go over the setup and use please.

Also if you add a scrap wood backer the chip outs will be on that instead of the workpiece.

Ed

Spacemanspiff

I'll try and take some more pics tomorrow, but the general idea is to have the work piece clamped vertically to the backer block (which slides along the indexing pin), have it hard up against the indexing pin (which does run the length of the jig), push the stock through the router bit, and then use the slot cut in the stock to index it for the next cut. Aaarrggghh!!! Maybe it is easier to use pictures - they are worth a thousand words afterall!! The router bit is 8mm, the gap between the bit and the indexing pin is 8mm and the indexing pin is 8mm as well, which (thankfully) means it all works.

More pics tomorrow folks.

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BobandRick

Look forward to seeing your photos.

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Spacemanspiff

OK here we go then ... sorry to reproduce the pics but here we go;
The jig as it looks
http://www.woodworkersweb.com/module...oint_jig_1.jpg
How the backer block slides along the indexing fence (backer block is also used as a zero clearance to help avoid chipout);
http://www.woodworkersweb.com/module...oint_jig_2.jpg
Here it is from the front with a piece clamped in it to show how it works. As I have ony dummied it up the piece I used was one of the original set-up test pieces so you can see the rest of the finger joints in it too;
http://www.woodworkersweb.com/module...int_cont_d.jpg
To use it all you do is butt the piece up to the fence and clamp it to the backer block. The space between the router bit and the fence is the exact same size as the router bit - as is the width of the indexing fence. Push the piece through the router bit (the handle keeps my fingers well away!!) and return it, undo the clamp, move the piece so the gap cut slots over the fence, clamp it up and repeat the step.
And this is how it turned out;
http://www.woodworkersweb.com/module...end_result.jpg
Not too bad if I do say so myself!!

Hope this is clearer now.

Thanks
Aaron

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reible

OK now I see what's going on! Thanks for turning on the light for me.

Of course you must space two of the sides/fronts different to get the off-set for the joint but that is easy to do.

I like it, nice and simple and obviously does a good job. Thanks for sharing.

Ed

jdoolitt

Thanks Aaron. That third picture did it for me. I was confused because there was no through-hole in the fence. Also - your handle is in line with the router bit path -- but I can see that you simply stop once you hit the fence. Nice job and thanks for sharing the extra picture.

David Klug

Several yrs. ago I wanted something to catch the sawdust under my contracter saw. I made a box to fit in the frame using the same type of jig to make the joints, except I used a 1/4" bit.

DK

Dewy

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