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| This is a discussion on Dado Jig for Plunge Router within the Jigs and Fixtures forums, part of the Routers category; Dado Jig We have all seen many jigs to put in a dado for shelft(s) ... |
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| | #1 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
Dado Jig We have all seen many jigs to put in a dado for shelft(s) in a book case or cabinets. Most have two boards that hold the router in place,from moving from side to side, like the one Norm made on his show most will jam when you push the router up the tack . This one will Not jam because in runs on the brass guide that is true unlike most base plates on the router base. They stamp out the base plate and it's not a true machined part. This jig will take that error out and you will get a true slot,right on the button every time. You can make a quick guide to use with this jig with 1/2" MDF and a dado slot and 3/4" plywood cut off stock to hold the spacer guide from one slot to the other. In that way you will get a slot every 12" or what every you want it to be. We all know that plywood is not a true size that's to say that 3/4" plywood is 23/32" and we need to use the right bit size to get it to fit right,same with 1/2" and 1/4" plywood. I try and make most of the book cases or cabinets 11 3/4" wide so I can put the slot in both at the same time and then split the 24" plywood and end up with both sides that are dead on. Then use a face frame to cover the plywood ends and to hold the shelf sq. and add support to the shelf ,with a T & G bits you can put a slot in the shelf and the face frame. T & G bits ,set it to cut 1/4" deep on all slots. You can also use the T & G bits to make a 1/4" spline that's 7/16" wide and it's dead on 1/4" thick and it will work great to hold the shelf and face frame as one. I have put a link or two for the bits you need to use and the bits you need to make the jig and the brass guide, It true that Harbor Freight has a better price on the brass guide set, but it will not come with the 1" O.D. one you need to use for 3/4" plywood and this jig. http://www.grizzly.com for the bits and brass guide kit. Plywood bits H5559 and H5558 at a good price 1" bit 1/2" shank C1017 also a good price Brass Guide Set H3134 it's bit high in price BUT has the 1" guide you need. If you need more info please ask ![]() Plus some other snapshots of jigs, see below ▼ NOTE*** drawing below/plans http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...html#post41464 http://www.routerforums.com/98654-post3.html Bj ![]() Snapshots are out of order sorry about that, out of my control.
__________________ MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos plus FREE MLCS Project Plans http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html Part Finder find parts for your power tools http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ Need some help replacing the parts http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/ Many Router Tips from RWS http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/ Router Tables ,Ready to use http://www.rt1000.com/ http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 02-02-2009 at 12:11 PM. | ||
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| | #2 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Bob, I like this jig a lot. That is as long as the plywood bit that's being used is truly the same thickness as the plywood that is actually going into the slot. Is it your experience that veneer ply is truly 23/32? or is it even thinner-like 22/32? I just bought a couple plywood sized bits at Rockler this week. I used a 23/32 to cut a dado using a 1 runner sled with my router table and was using some secure hold downs to prevent the stock from sliding around. I found the dado joint was too loose when I slid the stock into the dado. When I measured the thickness of the plywood I found it was 22/32 instead of 23/32 and that 1/32 is a lot when building something. The ply I bought was oak veneer plywood that I got at my local Home Depot. Last edited by paulcomi; 08-15-2006 at 12:54 AM. | ||
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| | #3 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
Hi Paul The plywood is going the way of the candy bar getting smaller and smaller if they can save 1/32 of stock when they make the plywood they can many more and still charge the the same price. At some point they will need to tell you and I that the stock is unsize that's to say it's not 3/4" it's not 23/32" but now it's 22/32" and next week it maybe 21/32" I see no end to this. Just as a side note, they are building some new homes down the road and I stopped by to just have a look see, the roofing plywood was marked 5/8" chip board but it looked like 1/2" T & G to me and when the roofer was putting on the roof it bent like 1/2 " on 16" centers when he walked on it. And the new homes are 450,000.oo not cheap homes. I recall when a 2 x 4 was a 2 x 4 but now days....well ,the way of the 5 cents candy bar. And I think that's why the MDF and the WoodStalk will take over the plywood sales. For one thing when you and I buy 3/4" MDF it's 3/4". ![]() And when you and I buy 3/4" WoodStalk straw veneer it's 3/4" so you may want to stay away from veneer plywood. Bj ![]()
__________________ MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos plus FREE MLCS Project Plans http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html Part Finder find parts for your power tools http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ Need some help replacing the parts http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/ Many Router Tips from RWS http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/ Router Tables ,Ready to use http://www.rt1000.com/ http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html Bob J. | ||
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| | #4 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
With the unpredictability of the stock in mind, it would be slick to still use a bushing as the guide for cutting slots but incorporate a width adjustment somehow. If one could lock the jig for the width of the stock and then cut the slot running the bushing against the edge one way and against the other edge on the way back it would still be an improvement over the trapped base jig idea | ||
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| | #5 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
Hi Paul You can use a 5/8" router bit (or a 1/2" one if you don't have a 5/8" bit) and just move the jig over just a bit and reclamp it down. This is what I would do to fix this type of error, make the 1st 5/8" slot then clamp a setup block down, then unclamp the jig and put a metal ruler (on it's side) that's about 1/32" thick, right next (in front) of the setup block then reclamp the jig down and make the 2nd pass. Bj ![]()
__________________ MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos plus FREE MLCS Project Plans http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html Part Finder find parts for your power tools http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ Need some help replacing the parts http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/ Many Router Tips from RWS http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/ Router Tables ,Ready to use http://www.rt1000.com/ http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 08-15-2006 at 03:03 PM. | ||
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| | #6 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Grimsby, Humberside. First Name: Alan Posts: 237 ![]() |
I don't know if this is of any use to you but I found the plan on the internet a few years ago. All you have to do is place a piece of the shelf material in between the straight edges and clamp it up and then rout out the correct size Dado everytime. Here is a pic of it: | ||
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| | #7 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
I read in the newspaper that Dow is no longer making the building material that was being used on the RouterWorkshop. (Wheatstalk ? I don't remember) Regards Jerry | ||
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| | #8 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: May 2005 Location: Mopunt Vernon, WA USA First Name: Derek Posts: 337 ![]() |
Jerry, one of the moderators here said he lives close to that mill and they are discontinuing that product. You were correct- it was fibre made form wheat. -Derek | ||
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| | #9 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
Just some links and info on Woodstalk ![]() -------------- http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/1941-woodstalk-no-more.html http://www.dow.com/bioprod/buy.htm http://news.dow.com/prodbus/2005/20051115a.htm http://www.valuecreatedreview.com/wheatboard.htm http://www.petitiononline.com/wboard/petition.html http://sweets.construction.com/mfg/55264/P38915.htm ----------------------- Bj ![]()
__________________ MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos plus FREE MLCS Project Plans http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html Part Finder find parts for your power tools http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ Need some help replacing the parts http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/ Many Router Tips from RWS http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/ Router Tables ,Ready to use http://www.rt1000.com/ http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html Bob J. | ||
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| | #10 (permalink) | ||
| Retired Moderator ![]() |
Woodstalk was an excellent idea ahead of it's time. I have a feeling it will return in the future. At this time it is not a profitable item for Dow. Let's all hope it returns soon.
__________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you. | ||
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